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LDE3037ST LG Range Oven Temperature

Slambert

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Bottom oven sensor getting 1065 ohms. If these are both good, what is the next thing to look at?
 

Jake

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Please post your model number so Rick can help you.

Click here: Appliance Parts

Then you will see a link that says: How to find a model number.

Jake
 

Slambert

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Sorry, I thought this was still attached to the other thread. It's and LG double oven model LDE3037ST
 

rickgburton

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Give me a description of the problem. When threads get to long from members piggybacking on them, it's too hard to follow. It's much easier for us when you start a new thread. More people and techs will see it. Thanks
 

Slambert

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Been noticing for a while that things were taking much longer than they should. Bought an oven thermometer and found that neither of the ovens heat to the set temperature and will not hold the temperature either.
 

rickgburton

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Since it's both ovens, start by checking for 220 VAC supply voltage at the power cord terminal block. If the supply voltage checks good, check for 220 VAC at the control board. If you still have the wiring diagram can you post a copy here? Unfortunately I haven't been able to locate one yet
 

Slambert

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All good at the terminal block. Where do I test on the control board. Here is a photo of the open back of the oven and the wiring diagram that was taped on the back. I'm a DIY guy with very limited experience with any electrical other than standard 120v home wiring. Trying to learn :)
 

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rickgburton

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Where do I test on the control board.
OK, The connectors and relays should be marked on the board. On the relay board check for 220 VAC across the black wire on the lower DLB relay (RY19) and the double red wire on TAB10. Check for 220 VAC across the back wire on upper DLB relay (RY20) and the red wire on RY21.
 

Slambert

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Before I pull it back out and open it up again, does it make any difference that all of the burners on the stove are working properly?
 

rickgburton

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No, The surface elements don't go through the relay board. The relay board is the only thing common between both ovens.
 

Slambert

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OK, The connectors and relays should be marked on the board. On the relay board check for 220 VAC across the black wire on the lower DLB relay (RY19) and the double red wire on TAB10. Check for 220 VAC across the back wire on upper DLB relay (RY20) and the red wire on RY21.
Getting 240 on both of those.
 

rickgburton

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OK, Check for any error codes. Press the “clear” key then press and hold “LOWER BAKE” and “LOWER BROIL” key for 3 seconds. If there is an error code it will look like this:
LDE3017-1.jpg

No error codes it will look like this:
LDE3017-2.jpg

Press the "Clear" key after checking error codes.
 

rickgburton

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found that neither of the ovens heat to the set temperature and will not hold the temperature either.
I need a more detailed description. If you set the temperature to 350°F what temperature does it reach? Both ovens? What do you mean by won't hold the temps? Did you check the oven sensors resistance? (1006Ω ± 10% at room temperature or 75°)
 

Slambert

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Set both ovens to 350
When preheat tones went off, both ovens were about 275. After another 10-15 minutes both got close to 300 and maxed out about 315
Adjusted to 400 and both maxed out less than 375
 

Slambert

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using a standalone oven thermometer. Yes, I checked the sensors at room temperature got 1074 on the top one and 1065 on the bottom one.
 

rickgburton

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OK, here's the part you need:
lg-pcb-assembly-system-ebr78931708-ap5958578_01_l.jpg

Here's the deal; Once again LG threw a monkey wrench into the gears. Every other manufacturer uses an RTD sensor and normal resistance is 1060 - 1100 Ω's at room temperature. Along the way, while looking up information on your model, I found your model uses a PTC thermistor. The tech sheet for a similar model states 1009Ω at room temperature is normal. I tried to find a temp/resistance chart for PTC sensors but no joy. Yours is 1074 and 1065 and both are on the high end of the +10%. On RTD sensors the difference between 300° and 350° is 100 ohms. Your temperature is off by 25° to 50° which could account for the difference between 1009Ω and 1074Ω. If your problem started with one oven then eventually the second oven, I would say replace the sensors. If the problem with both ovens started at the same time, replace the board.
 
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