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Leonard Refrigerator Model LC-R

electro47

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
2
Location
Missouri
Model Number
LC-R
Brand
Kelvinator
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Leonard refrigerator model LC-R that has worked flawlessly until today. I suspected that it might be a start capacitor issue but when I opened it up there was none. Only a relay with a GM part number 5339200. I am a master electrician so I know a how to troubleshoot a lot of things but this is a little out of my area of expertise. I have 123 volts on all the terminals with the thermostat on and even when it is off. Is there a way to isolate which component is at fault. Jumper wires between terminals? Ohm readings for the compressor? Thanks for your help.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,793
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I think kelvinator uses a hot wire relay. I'll post a wiring diagram for you. `Basically, the L1 side of the power cord connects to the relay terminal marked L. The N side of the power cord connects to a dummy post. It's just a way to connect two wires and doesn't connect to anything in the relay. The other wire on that post goes up through the t-stat and back to another dummy post. The wire connected to that becomes the common wire on the compressor. The wire on the relay terminal marked S goes to the compressor start windings and the terminal marked M goes to the run windings. If yours doesn't look similar to this, take a few pics and post them here. This model doesn't have a condensor fan or light.
vintage ref hot wire relay.jpg
 

electro47

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2021
Messages
2
Location
Missouri
Thanks for the wiring diagram, after looking at it it all made sense until I looked at the wiring diagram on the back of my unit. I suspected that I didn't have a common connection coming back from the compressor so I attached the common lead to an external source via a pigtail and the compressor runs great. So, that makes me think that the thermostat is bad or a bad connection on the terminal block shown on my wiring diagram. My relay is very similar to the one in your diagram except there are no wires on 2 or three because the neutral connection coming back from the thermostat is made on the terminal block that is no where to be found. You can see in the pictures that the power wires and the power and common to the relay pass through a hole in the back which is about 1 inch by 1 1/2 inches. The shot of the upper panel shows the brown and yellow wires from the thermostat passing through headed down to the junction block. This unit has a light (which I didn't even know about) and it works just fine with the door switch. So my questions are: Do you know where the junction block is? Apparently it is somewhere between where the wires go in the bottom and below where the thermostat wires disappear into the insulation. There are no more access panels to remove. The entire interior is one solid metal shell and there are no panels in the compressor compartment. I tried using my inspection camera but there is too much insulation in the way and I can't see anything. Surely you don't have to gut the interior to get to this junction block. I can't check or replace the thermostat without access to the junction block. The other question is how to remove/replace the thermostat. The picture show the two screws holding it but there is still a tube to deal with. I really appreciate your help.
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,793
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Do you know where the junction block is?
Follow the power cord wires. They go to the junction block. It should be in the machine compartment. Your pictures are too close I can't tell what I'm looking at. Sorry
 
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