LG Bottom Mount. LFX31925SB Error Code ER IS

Traveling Man

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Model Number
LFX31925SB
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
Serial #312KRSB2A334

LG: Bottom mount Freezer.
Code: ER IS / *Icing Sensor Error* > Fridge wasn't making ice. everything else was fine. A Tech came out, and said the ice maker wouldn't reset. Needed an ice maker, and a New Board. He Replaced the main board, and said that the ice maker He Brought was the wrong one.. Before he returned, With the New/ Right Ice-maker the fridge stopped cooling. FZ & FF
Error code ER-IS shows up and the dispenser will not dispense water, Unplug the fridge for a few, and it will dispense again. (Still Not Cooling)

So I put the Fridge in Test Mode 1 To check all the fan's. They are all working. I Checked <CON5> Blue to Blue / <Ohms O.L> , I did get a Volt reading, it was low, But the cabinet temp was room temp. But the ER-IS wouldn't stop the fridge from cooling.. did they replace a good board with a bad one?? It was working fine before the board swap, And there is no blinking light on main Board. The original complaint was that it wasn't making ice. I also tested the Ice-detecting sensor <ETY> So it's good.. It's as if it was put in display mode. :(
 

Jake

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Traveling Man

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Hi Jake :) Thank you.

yes what? they swapped a good board for a bad one? They would have had to, it's the only thing that makes sense.
I am assuming the Icing sensor comes with the ice-maker assembly?
(not sure why this didn't show in original post.) * I Checked Blue to Blue / on CON 5, OL But i did get a low volt reading*
 

Jake

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Yes, swapped good for bad, but the original good one can still be bad, that's why you need to do the tests per the tech. data sheet OR service manual for that error code.

Do you have the service manual for this unit? Or tech. data sheet?

Jake
 

Traveling Man

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Yes, I have the Service Manual for this Unit. I will post a link for DL. I did the Test For ER-IS Blue to Blue/ CON5. Book say's (o ohms short/ Change the sensor.) (OFF/ Open, Replace the refrigerator.) ( Other/ Normal/ Check the Temp and resistance (Table-1) ) I Got OL B2B Ohms On CON5. But I did get a DC volt reading From B2B on CON5. it was a low volt reading because the temp was high in the fridge. if you look at Page 46 you will see. I am not sure what the icing sensor is. is it part of the ice-maker assembly?

* LG Bottom Mount LFX31925SB.pdf - Google Drive *
 

Jake

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Page 73 is ice sensor, Page 75 ice detecting sensor.

Page 21: Short or disconnection of the sensor about Ice maker (Icing sensor, Ice maker sensor)

Page 26: 8-3 Icing Sensor Error (Er IS)

BLUE to BLUE you got OL(open loop) on the meter? When you ohm test you have to unplug the refrigerator first, so you should have no voltage present anywhere.:)

I'm really not sure if they mean the ice detection sensor for the icing sensor, kinda confusing.

Jake
 

Traveling Man

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I did have it unpluged, when I tested for ohms. Con5 b2b pluged in to board and unpluged from board, and both ways open loop. I also tested con5 b2b with the unit plugged in. To see if I could get a volt reading and I did. Because I saw on page 46 were it had temp and volt.
I am kinda confused about the icing sensor too. Not sure what they are talking about, or where it is located.
Depending on what you were talking about, could any of those stop the fridge from cooling?
 

Jake

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I really don't know, LG and Samsung are not my specialties and my knowledge of these are very limited. Wild is the expert at these two brands.

I'll msg Wild and see what he says.

Jake
 

wildimaginations

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What is your version number??? Very important since the pc board may be the wrong one for this model and is not compatible with your refrigerator.[h=2]LFX31925SB / 0?[/h]
I think the ice sensor is located at 612A in the ice maker page. Order this part and you will get both the ice maker and motor assembly together. Before you order it, you may want to do a continuity check at the plug behind this assembly. It will require you to remove it out. If the sensor has an open short, replace this whole unit. If the sensor checks out ok, then you may have a problem that's unrepairable.

If you look at the ice maker, look slightly above the ice maker and you can see the ice sensor.
 

Jake

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Thanks Wild,

I checked all three version numbers /0 /1 /2 and they all list the same board I posted on the previous page.

#612A is the complete ice maker assembly which makes sense, and should come with the ice sensor with it.

Here it is:
Ice Maker Assembly EAU60783827


Jake
 

Traveling Man

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Thank you Wild and Jake For all the help. :)
The Board is on the way, and i will order the icemaker assembly now. when i return i will check at ice maker connection.
I will let you know how it goes :)
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, yes keep us posted!

Jake
 

Traveling Man

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I replaced the Board and the ice maker assembly, I started the unit and turned on the ice maker, Held down the test button, and it cycled and filled with water. It wouldn't do that before. I also tested the sensor at connection Like *Wild* said, i got 2.755 ohms. Not sure why i didn't get a reading at the board last time.
I heard the compressor come on, and could feel it vibrating, so i put the amp clamp around one of the wires going to the compressor relay, to see what the amp Draw was, it said .22 Amps, Seemed kinda low to me, But not sure seeing as it's an LG. At one point it did slowly clime to 30 something and then drop back down to 22
 

Jake

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Thats very odd, something must be wrong with your amp meter?

So everything is back to normal?

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, that's strange!

Then you'll need to look at the service manual I referred you to on the previous page and troubleshoot.

Is the compressor cold or warm when you put your hand on it? Is the condenser fan motor running that sits next to it?

Jake
 

Traveling Man

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I know right! The fridge has been unplugged so the compressor was cool, but running or at least it felt like it was running it was vibrating, after I swapped the parts and plugged it in. And the condenser fan was running.
 

Jake

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Just leave the refrigerator plugged into, don't unplug it and give it some time and see if the compressor is running and gets warm to hot.

Jake
 

Traveling Man

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I was thinking the same thing. I know there's nothing wrong with my amp meter. I use it every day.
so why was it only showing .22 Amp that's crazy. I can feel the compressor running, But @ .22 Amps it's not working, just going threw the motions. "no load on it" So the question is why? it hasn't thrown an ER code.
 
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