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FIXED LG Dryer DLEX3470V Drum not spinning

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Christinezac

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Ottawa On
Model Number
DLEX3470V
Brand
LG
Age
6-10 years
Hi everyone,

I am hoping you can help me with my dryer issue. It is about 6 years old and the drum suddenly stopped working. Power to control board goes on and there is a click/relay sound from the circuit board when you try a cycle, but nothing else.

I have tried to learn and do the testing in the service manual as don’t want anyone in here during COVID ( but this my intro to a multimeter!). Luckily found it here: https://www.appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=14109.0

I ended up buying a new circuit board based on what I was reading and it did not help. :( ( and now I’m stuck with it :/).

I am trying to figure out how I can confirm whether it is the motor.

A few things I was able to test:
- door switch, idler/micro switch, thermal fuse, thermostat all seem ok.
- I have not been able to get to the outlet thermal fuse yet but none of the error messages come up in diagnostic.
- on the default diagnostic ( 0) it cycles between In:E5, 0:005, d10. I can’t make any sense of this. The only reference to E5 is water pump but that test seems fine.

For the motor, the resistance between the main wires is 6ohm. I don’t know how to test the switch to see if that is what is broken? The diagram in the book on page 13 does not seem to line up with my switch. I’ve tried resistance in there and nothing comes up.

Thoughts and advice appreciated!

thanks
Christine
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Hi Christine,

- door switch, idler/micro switch, thermal fuse, thermostat all seem ok.
Did you ohm test those parts for continuity? You can't just say they seem ok without ohm testing them first.:)

3 parts that will make the dryer not run at all are the Thermal Fuse, Belt Switch, and Door switch.

Here's how to use your multimeter to ohm test:
Make sure the dryer is unplugged while ohm testing.

Did you ohm your belt switch for continuity? And Door Switch for continuity?

Here's the belt switch for your model:
Belt Switch EBF61734701


There is a video in the part link that shows you how to access/replace it.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch 6601EL3001A


This video shows you how to access it:

This video shows how to ohm test it:

The only other part that will make the dryer not come ON at all is the thermal fuse.

Unplug the dryer, then ohm test the thermal fuse. When you click the part link to the thermal fuse below, you will see two videos, one how to access it, then other how to ohm test it for continuity.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Thermal Fuse 6931EL3003D


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Christinezac

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Ottawa On
Thanks Jake,
I did check those for continuity :) (At least I think I did! and thank you as I did refer to those videos from another post you helped on!).
Door switch (0/1)
Belt switch same ( 0/1)
For the thermal fuse- I am not sure which one this is ? I was able to test the one on the heater housing (which I think its he one in the video) so I believe this is the thermal cut off? This one measured 0 so I think that is good.
I can't find the second one though which I believe would be the outlet thermostat. Do you think it could be that one? (and do you know where I can find it? :) I may have to take the back off instead of the front?

Do you think it could be the centrifugal switch and if there is a way to test it? The motor resistance between the main motor wires ( brown/yellow) is 6ohm when it’s off. ( manual says 2-3 off, 3-5 when on). I’m not sure if that means the switch itself is working?
That is my only guess right now but totally from just learning everything this past week!
Any other thoughts you have are really appreciated!!

Thanks again
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I can't find the second one though which I believe would be the outlet thermostat.
Look BEHIND the blower wheel housing for it.:)

Jake
 

Christinezac

Premium Member
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Messages
10
Location
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Thanks Jake. So I realized I did find it before! But forgot. haha. It reads 0, so I think it is fine too.

Any other ideas??

Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
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You have to remove the entire drum to access it.

Did you remove the entire drum yet?

It has to be there, but with that drum in the way it will be impossible to get access to it.:)

Jake
 

Christinezac

Premium Member
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Messages
10
Location
Ottawa On
Yes, I removed the drum :) ( I can’t count how many times now!). The outlet fuse reads zero for continuity. I think that is all the potential switches now... I also checked the thermistor and thermostat as well as resistance between the heater wires which read and all seem to test okay according to the manual.
I “feel” like it’s the continuity switch! :/ as I don’t know what else to test! ;)
thanks again
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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The problem has to be the motor is worn out. That's the only part left.

Here's the motor for your model you can order(Video Included):
Drive Motor 4681EL1008A


Jake
 

Christinezac

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Messages
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Location
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Thanks Jake- do you know if there is a way for me to confirm it is the motor before buying it? ( Saw some posts where it was burnt wires and I already wasted $ on the circuit board...:/))
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Just the motor test on page 39 in the service manual.

Did you do that yet?

Jake
 

Christinezac

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Jan 19, 2021
Messages
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Location
Ottawa On
Hi Jake
Thanks again..
I've been mustering up to give this another go.
So I was able to test most of the motor test on page 39 (and 17).

I am not sure if I did the first three multimeter ones right so I think I may need to go back to those after I put everything back together - but I just bought a new circuit board so assuming it is not that. Not exactly sure what "check the controller connecter" means but I tried to check all the connecters I believe... and door switch is fine.

The thermostat and switches seemed to check out fine (as per manual).

Then, the manual refers to "motor test" which I assume is page 17. It also says to check the control connector again. I am not exactly sure what that is and how to check it.
The motor wires read 6ohm on their own power off and when in the switch so that seems to be okay? (although it is higher than what is in the manual which says 2-3 when stopped). I am not sure about the testing of the switch as its not in the manual. I took apart the motor and removed the switch. If I check for continuity between 4 and 5 (where the brown/yellow go) should there be continuity? It doesn't read any with switch on or off. There is continuity though between 3 and 5.

Not sure what to do at this point... either put it all back together and test the circuit board/wiring again, or try to find a switch /buy a motor

Thanks again
 

Jake

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Ok Christine,

Yes, seems you are testing is properly. But at this point its best to contact LG to have a tech. come out, something very odd is happening with yours, that will be impossible for us to help you with just over this forum.

Jake
 

Jake

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Anytime Christine!

Jake
 

Christinezac

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Jan 19, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Ottawa On
Hi Jake,

Hope you are well.

I'm still at it with the dryer and re-testing everything. I thought I would share another result to see if it could mean something regarding the motor testing.

Page 17 has the motor test and this seems to check out fine (2ohm between 4/5 when off, 4 when on).

When I refer to page 30 for the test of the motor - the manual states the readings for the wires coming out of the switch should be ~4.35 for main/common and 3.37 for sub/common. I am not exactly sure which is main/sub/common, but tested all of the combinations and am only getting a reading of 2 between the two of them. Do you think that could mean the motor is bad even though the motor test above reads ok?

Thoughts and advice appreciated! Thanks again and have a great weekend
 

Christinezac

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Jan 19, 2021
Messages
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Location
Ottawa On
Update! I may have found the culprit? I was checking continuity for all the wire portions and seemed to be having trouble between belt switch and motor. Took a closer look and it looks like it's burnt out! I accidentally pulled the wire out and it did look a little black. Checked continuity direct from wire to motor and it works.
Now... not sure how to fix it! I don't think I can buy just the connector? Will try to pull out anything I can from the connector (need to find some very small tweezers I think!) and try to put it back together.
 

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Jake

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BINGO! You found the problem.(y)

Persistence pays off!

Just cut the plastic off from that terminal and cut that burnt terminal off and go buy a new terminal and splice it on. All Hardware stores sell those terminals.

Jake
 

Christinezac

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
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Location
Ottawa On
Hi Jake! I fixed it! Thanks for all your troubleshooting help! I bought a new female connector and had to cut open the plastic insertion for the belt switch so it would fit. All works great now! I must say this has been the highlight of the last few months for me:). (Now I just have to figure out why I have 7 screws left over after putting it all back together! haha - for another day).
Thanks again - I really appreciate all the help you have given me (and everyone on this blog!). Best wishes for the new year :)

Christine
 

Jake

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Excellent Christine, glad to hear your back in business.:)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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