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FIXED LG Dryer DLEX7700WE does not spin

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Model Number
DLEX7700WE
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
Hi,
The LG dryer suddenly stopped working. When I press the "power" button, the power light comes on. However, when I press the "start" button, nothing happens. I see the "drying" icon flashing, but the drum does not spin. I checked the door - it seems to have closed fine. And the air vent is lint free. Not sure what the problem is. The dryer just ran out of the extended warranty. I would appreciate any help troubleshooting the issue.

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,822
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Did you ohm test any parts for continuity? Unplug your dryer first, before accessing and ohm testing parts inside the dryer

You have 3 parts that will make the dryer not run at all--->Thermal Fuse, Belt Switch, and Door switch.

Here's how to use your multimeter to ohm test:
Make sure the dryer is unplugged while ohm testing.

Did you ohm your belt switch for continuity? And Door Switch for continuity?

Here's the belt switch for your model:
Belt Switch EBF61734701


There is a video in the part link that shows you how to access/replace it.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch 6601EL3001A


This video shows you how to access it:

This video shows how to ohm test it:

The only other part that will make the dryer not come ON at all is the thermal fuse.

Unplug the dryer, then ohm test the thermal fuse. When you click the part link to the thermal fuse below, you will see two videos, one how to access it, then other how to ohm test it for continuity.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Thermal Fuse 6931EL3003D


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Jake,
Thanks for the advice. I checked the Thermal Fuse, Belt Switch, and Door switch. They all passed the continuity test. I am not sure what to look for next.

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
123,822
Location
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If those parts ohm tested good, all that's left is your control board as the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model: EBR79674701 Pcb Assembly,main

Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Hi,
I did replace the PCB, but the same problem exists. When I press the start button, I can hear the "click" (relay switch?) - but nothing else happens. Does this indicate bad motor?

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
123,822
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's very strange, you will need to see if your getting 120 volts to the motor first before you replace it. I don't have the tech. data sheet for this model, so I'm unable to tell you which wires to check at the motor for 120 volts, hopefully you can locate your tech. data sheet and see.

Here's the motor for your model:
lg-motor-assembly-dc-4681el1008g-ap5669767_01_l.jpg


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
123,822
Location
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Ok, sounds good, let us know what you find.

Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Jake,
I checked it out. The line to the motor is putting out only 18V. The replacement PCB assembly appears to be defective. Because Appliance Parts Pro did not have it in stock, I bought it from eBay. The seller listed it as brand new - but I am not so sure now. Anyway, I am back at trying to find the replacement PCB assembly. Looks like it is going to be a challenge to find this part. Let me see.

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Location
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Yes, 18 Volts to the motor is not enough, so I agree with you the PCB from ebay is defective.

Hopefully the PCB from AppliancePartsPros becomes available soon.

Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Thanks Jake. Because the family is without the dryer for three weeks, I may have to find a cheap Craigslist unit for temporary use then fix the LG unit when the part become available.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
123,822
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I understand completely.

Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Jake,
I received the PCB few days ago. Unfortunately, replacing the PCB did not fix the issue. The PCB came in a sealed box, and I do not doubt its quality.
Friend had a spare dryer and my need for the time being is met. I am not sure it makes any economical sense to fix at this stage.
I really appreciate your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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That's very odd, then you must have a short in your wiring harness to the motor or door switch, check all your wiring for a short or cut in any of your wires.

Other, than that I not sure what else could be the problem, unless you missed a thermostat to ohm test that controls the motor.

Jake
 

Willh62

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2021
Messages
1
Location
DFW
mvc,
Not sure if you are still working on the dryer, but I'll throw this out there. I'm currently working on an LG DLE7100W that had the same symptom (drying icon flashing, no drum movement).
Mine is a different model, but the wiring may be similar. On mine, the neutral wire goes through the blower thermostat to get to the motor. I found the thermostat open, so I put a jumper
wire in, and turned the unit on and it worked. Still waiting on the part, but hopefully that is the only problem.
 

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Jake

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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Thanks Will, that does make sense.:)

That blower thermostat is on the backside of the blower housing assembly, so he may have missed that one to ohm test.

Here's the blower thermostat for your model:
Thermostat 6931EL3002M



Jake
 

mvc

Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2011
Messages
27
Location
NJ
Will and Jake,
Thanks for the follow-up. I was just about to respond - I finally found the problem. It turned out the wire at the motor terminal was burnt. Although I disassembled and assembled the unit multiple times, it escaped my visual inspection. When Jake asked me to check for open wires, I checked very carefully at each connection and that's when I spotted the problem (see the attached image). It was not obvious until I gently pushed the wire at the joint. I quickly stripped the wire and reconnected to the spade connector (crude crimping using a plier) and checked that the motor worked - and it did. It was at this point that I noted that the spade connector was somewhat lose, which can explain why it was burnt in the first place. I was thinking that the lose connection, coupled with the motor vibration, likely caused some spark which could have melted the wire. I found a suitable spade connector, rewired, and connected the motor today. Checked the dryer functionality with one set of clothes from the washer - everything is working fine.

Looking back, I should have spotted this problem when Jake asked me to check the voltage to the motor. It turned out I checked the voltage at the wrong place (at the belt switch sensor level). This was partly because I misunderstood a YouTube video that I was watching. I should have thought about that or at least checked with Jake about it.

I can't thank Jake enough for all the coaching. I was about to give up last week and I am glad that he asked me to check the connections again. Now I have disassembled and assembled this unit multiple times, I will be quite comfortable taking things apart the next time something doesn't work.
 

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Jake

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Excellent @mvc glad to hear you found that burnt wire connector at the motor and fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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