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FIXED LG Dryer DLEX8100W won't start

Colektm364

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2021
Messages
1
Location
Richmond, Kentucky
Model Number
DLEX8100W
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
I could use some help!
My wife went to start a load on steam and when she hit the power on button, nothing!
I also do not have a light on in the drum.
I first checked the breaker and it looked good but I reset it anyway.
I have 248v at the outlet and 248v at the terminal.
This set is only 3 years old…
After doing some online search, I bought and replaced the control board.
Still nothing, will not power up and no light in drum area. I also tried the hard reset multiple times.
Any help would be amazing!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,202
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi,

Let's start with the door switch first, since you mentioned the light in the drum is not coming on anymore. You will need a multimeter to ohm test it.

Here's how to use a multimeter to ohm test:
Make sure the dryer is unplugged while ohm testing parts.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch 6601EL3001A


This video shows you how to access it:

This video shows how to ohm test it:

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Wolfpack98

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Jake,

I had the same issue as Cole above. My model is slightly different, DLEX8100V. no power anywhere. Tested the door switch and it is working fine. Getting ready to take out the PCB and look for any scorching. Any thoughts?

Edit: Pulled the PCB, they epoxy the actual board into the plastic housing. They really don't want you trying to repair anything on there yourself!

Steve
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
131,202
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Hi Steve,

It could be a voltage issue, I've run into many dryers that will RUN and NOT HEAT or NOT RUN AT ALL on my service calls. You may have a broken wire from one of the hot legs that connects to the terminal block in the back of the dryer.

Unplug your dryer, and pull it out from the wall and remove the metal cover where your power cord connects to your dryer and see if any of the wires have burned.

You would need to check for 220-240 volts at the terminal block with a multimeter.

Put your multimeter leads on both ends of the terminal block, it should read 240 volts.

Remember Black & Red on the ends are HOT, White in the middle is NEUTRAL

Then put one of your meter leads in the middle of your terminal block and one on the end you should read 120 volts, then on the other end you should read 120 volts as well.

Look at this from another member that had this same issue:

(click to enlarge)
FriedWires.jpg

Jake
 

Wolfpack98

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Tried those terminal blocks. 240 across both and 120 on each. I pull the PCB that was under the top lid and nothing in there looked burnt either. Still no power anywhere.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
131,202
Location
Redmond, Oregon
That's very odd, I don't have the tech. data sheet for this model, but look for L1 and N(neutral) on the control board, that would be the main 120 volts coming into the control board.

Here's the main control board for your model: EBR76519513

Jake
 

Wolfpack98

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Some additional info. I pulled the two board out of the front panel. I hit the start button and I heard a repetitive quick clicking like it was coming from the relay next to it. Pic-Dryer 1. Black box top right with the orange circle on it. Also I pulled up the terminal blocks on the main PCB shown in pic 2-Dryer 2a, labeled 1,2,3,4,5.

I tested the voltage from the white wire in 5 to the black wires in each 1 -4 and they all read 120V. I also tested white wire on 5 to red wire on 1 but got like 6.5V. Same as the reading from the black and white wire on block 5. Thoughts?
 

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Wolfpack98

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Thanks Bigbuck. I went through there. most of those require some sort of power getting to it to run diagnostics or testing, which I don't have. I ran a few of the tests that didn't require power. The motor test, pg 34 had a low resistance reading on the first step. It read 0.4ohms, less than the 3 stated. The fix was to replace the control, which I assume is the control board, not the PCB. I've pulled all the connectors from the PCB to make sure I had good connections. The clicking from the start button though is new.

I have a repairman scheduled for next monday. I probably have to spend his fee for him to come out and tell me I need a new PCB and control board.
 

Urotex

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2022
Messages
8
Location
Colleyville
I have a DLEX4370K, but same issue. I checked the power in and its good. Nml continuity in door switch and thermal fuse. No light and no power on.
I gambled and changed the main control board(PCB), but no love.
I just ordered the Dryer Display Control Board. I hope that fixes it.

Wolfpack98, any updates?
 

Wolfpack98

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
5
Location
North Carolina
Yeah, repairman came out an diagnosed it and said I needed a new board. Should have just replaced it to start with. Cost me an extra $200. But if that wasn't the issue would have still cost me another $200. Gambled and lost! PCB isn't in yet though.
 

Urotex

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2022
Messages
8
Location
Colleyville
Thank you for the update!
I spent a couple hundred overnighting the Main control board that didn't fix the problem, so now I am waiting on the Dryer Display Control Board for about $150. If it fixes it, then not calling the repairman ends up being a wash. If it doesn't, then I'm getting into the negative.

 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
131,202
Location
Redmond, Oregon
I spent a couple hundred overnighting the Main control board that didn't fix the problem
Did you read page 32 of that service manual @bigbuck posted in post #8 and check the voltages first?

Because that control board(aka PCB) fixed @johnfoose Dryer:

Jake
 

Jake

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Yeah, repairman came out an diagnosed it and said I needed a new board. Should have just replaced it to start with. Cost me an extra $200. But if that wasn't the issue would have still cost me another $200. Gambled and lost! PCB isn't in yet though.
Yes, I'm very confident the PCB will fix yours too.

Jake
 

Urotex

Premium Member
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Apr 26, 2022
Messages
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Location
Colleyville
Did you read page 32 of that service manual @bigbuck posted and check the voltages first?

Because that control board(aka PCB) fixed @johnfoose Dryer:

Jake
I did read that, but I have a different model, my control board looks different.
 

Jake

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Page 32 was mainly how to check for ghost voltage(aka floating neutral) no matter what control board you have.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Your not understanding, not at the board, at the terminal block where the power cord connects to.:)

The two OUTER wires are HOT, the middle wire is NEUTRAL.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, good.:)

Jake
 
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