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LG Dryer DLGX7601WE Not Drying - Not Hot Enough - with or without exhaust ducting connected

BobC4000

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2021
Messages
2
Location
Washington
Model Number
DLGX7601WE
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
The dryer worked acceptably in the past few years, but in the past few months it has stopped drying our clothing in a reasonable amount of time. Closer observations has determined that it no longer gets hot enough, (like it did in the past), and there is no significant steam coming out of the outside vent in cold weather, when the dryer is running, (like it did in the past). And the clothes do not get dry, even after running several hours, even with a small load of clothes. We often see lint filter cleaning requests occasionally flow errors on the display, but this is not different than it ever was.

We see the same lack of heat and lack of drying when dryer runs into a nylon stocking without any dryer vent ducting attached. And similar low flow errors.

As a first guess, I ordered and replaced all the temperature switches and burner flame detector. No change in performance was noted.

During operation, on timed dry, high heat, the burner light off is audible, and happens roughly every minute, sometimes every two minutes, runs for 3 to 10 seconds, then shuts down. If I stop the dryer, I can feel the heat inside the drum, but never enough so the clothes get really hot – not even really warm.

During any operation, first burner light off is a minute or two after drum starts rotating. Follows similar pattern to that described above, no matter what the temperature setting and drying style is.

So, the burner is lighting off, runs for at least a short time, then shuts down, and this cycle repeats every minute, or sometimes every two or three minutes.

However, the dryer never gets hot enough to dry the clothes in a reasonable amount of time, which it did fine before.

I have seen a number of threads on this forum describing similar issues. But I only found one that seems likely to be applicable to our issue and that indicated successful repair. The repair was by a “Costco” extended warranty tech, communicating with LG service support on the phone, while changing the controller/computer configuration settings – sadly he/she could not provide a description of how he modified the system configuration, after he did it, to the owner, (@QueBall), so that others could try later.

This leads me to ask the following questions:
  • Is the timing of the burner lightoff, run, and shutdown, as I have observed, consistent with expectations, or should it be running longer – like more than a minute or two, every time it lights off – particularly when the dryer is set for timed dry and high heat? I have read somewhere online that I should expect to see a dryer burner running more like a minute or three at a time, but can’t recall where.
  • What sensors control the amount of time the burner runs? Is the thermistor involved? Or is one of the three temperature switches the “primary” control, with the others being used to shut down the burner if the burner or blower /blower housing gets too hot because the primary control has failed to shut it down?
  • What components could be causing this degraded performance? The thermistor? The PCB/Controller/Computer? Others? What are the most likely causes?
  • I believe the long run to the exit of the dryer vent ducting to the outside world has always been an issue, and will continue to limit its performance – the installation significantly exceeds the installation manual’s guidelines. It has at least 4 or maybe 6 – 90 degree bends and around a 20 foot run of 4” galvanized steel ducting. So, in addition to correcting the dryer problems, I am also considering how to improve performance in the long term. Finding a shorter route to the outside is not an option in this case. Has anyone had experience with “booster” fans – I have seen some discussion of Fantech, which leads to others as well, in other threads on this forum. Any recommendations? Before I am done with the dryer, I will do something to address the excessive equivalent ducting run length. Nonetheless, there is clearly a different problem limiting the ability of the dryer to provide sufficient heat to dry our wash.
Thank you for staying awake long enough to read this far. Any experience, suggestions, or input would be greatly appreciated.

BobC4000
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,330
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Take the vent hose off the dryer. Start the dryer on timed dry about 40 minutes and select high heat. Measure the temperature at the vent. If your meter can't measure temperatures a meat thermometer will work.

Watch the igniter glow red and see if a flame is established each time the igniter goes out.
 

BobC4000

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2021
Messages
2
Location
Washington
Hi Rick:
Will do this as soon as my wife gets done with washer - probably tomorrow. Just put up a clothes line in a spare room, as a dryer workaround :). Our laundry room is a relatively small space, and I have to disconnect and move washer out of the way to get to dryer vent and gas valve, and work on it.

This site, www.applianceblog.com, is infinitely better than the others I have been to. And your, (real expert moderators/leaders), consistent involvement and participation makes it so.

Thanks so much for the input so far; back soon,
BobC4000
 
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