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FIXED LG LMXC23746S Refrigerator- ice maker not getting water

tomv21

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Huntsville, AL
Model Number
LMXC23746S
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
My ice maker stopped making ice suddenly. The in door water dispenser works fine. When I run the ice maker through the test it cycles normally, then the inlet valve hums as it tries to fill the tray but no water comes out. So I replaced the main inlet valve and it didn’t fix it. Then I replaced the second valve in the door and it didn’t help either.

I tested the voltage at the secondary valve plug and the water dispenser side gets 120v when calling for water, but the ice maker side gets 0 volts during the fill portion of the test run. This makes me think the ice maker isn’t calling for water, even though you can hear the water valve humming during this phase.

I finally realized there could be an error code and checked that and sure enough... E gF which points back to the flow meter on the inlet valve that I already replaced. Water pressure is within normal limits as well. I was about to start trying to figure out what ice maker component actually puts out the call for water, but now that I’m seeing this flow meter code I’m not so sure that will fix it.

Finally, resistance across the flow meter is a normal 18 ohms, the filter is brand new, and the lines are all clear as I can blow air through them. I’m stumped. Can anybody help me figure out where to go from here?
 

rickgburton

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I don't have the wiring diagram for that model but LG usually keeps the same ice maker wiring the same across similar models. When the ice maker is calling for water it sends the signal back to the control board and the control board supplies the fill valve with 120 VAC. Look on the control board for the connector with a red, blue, and yellow wire (and maybe a brown wire). The red wire supplies the ice valve with 120 VAC when calling for water. The blue wire is Neutral and the yellow wire supplies 120 VAC to the ice maker. Check for the fill valve supply voltage in the test mode. It might look similar to #2:
Snapshot_2.jpg
 

tomv21

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Huntsville, AL
I’ve attached the wiring diagram zoomed to what I think is the proper connector. I’ve also attached a picture of it. I unplugged the connector and cycled the ice maker manually. Got 120 volts across red-blue on the board when the ice maker got to the end of the cycle. This appears normal to me. Could the red wire be damaged btw the board and the in door fill valve? Or do you think this really is an issue with flow meter or water supply? Remember I didn’t get any voltage at the connector to the door fill valve during this same test. Thank you so much for lending your time and expertise to help me.
 

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rickgburton

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unplugged the connector and cycled the ice maker manually.
Reconnect the connector and measure the voltage through the back of the connector. If you have 120 VAC leaving the board and not making it to the valve you have a broken or pinched wire in between. Unfortunately I can't make out anything on the wiring pic (old eyes) Can you send the entire wiring diagram in .pdf format? Meter leads too big try this:
safety pin 500x250.jpg
 

tomv21

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Huntsville, AL
Great little trick for the large meter leads. Here is a link to the wiring diagram. It’s on page 27.
All of my tests but one were run during the fill portion after pushing the ice maker reset button.

Photo 1
120v at board across red-blue (ice fill valve?)
120v at board across pink-blue (I think these are actually the ones that travel to the ice valve?

Photo 2
120v across pink-blue (caries 120v from board into door components?)

photo 3
0v purp-purp *this is a problem*
120v white-white while pressing water dispenser button

photo 4
120v to main inlet valve

it’s just amazing to me that a wire can get physically cut in there with just opening/closing the door. Is there anything I’m missing here?
 

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rickgburton

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Service Manual-Awesome! I appreciate that. When I first started there were no service manuals because you didn't need them. Now with all the electronics and computers inside appliances you almost can't repair one without it. Give me a little time to look over it. Quick question;
ice maker reset button.
Is this the on off power switch?
 

tomv21

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2020
Messages
10
Location
Huntsville, AL
No, there is a little test button on the underside of the ice maker that runs it through a complete empty/fill cycle. I couldn’t find much useful diagnostic info in the manual for the problem of no water to the ice maker though, hopefully you’ll have better luck than me.
 

tomv21

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Messages
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Location
Huntsville, AL
Assuming it is a problem with a wire, could I bypass the door and put a jumper wire directly to the water valve’s plug to test it? Which wires going into the top of the door would I connect to? I can’t figure it out even with the wiring diagram. I guess just testing the resistance btw the wires would be enough to know but I’d sure like to be able to see it work this way to be 100% sure it’s a wire and not a component.
 

rickgburton

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Unplug the machine and disconnect the CON2 connector and the CON3 connector. Measure, in the connectors, between CON2-7 and CON2-1. If the meter indicates 360Ω to 420Ω reconnect the connectors and restore power. Measure the voltage across CON2-5 and CON2-3. Press the fill button on the ice maker for 3 seconds and check if the ice maker goes through two harvest-fill cycles. When it reaches the fill cycle measure the voltage across CON2-7 and CON2-3 then CON2-7 and CON3-1
 

tomv21

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Huntsville, AL
CON2-7 to CON2-1 no reading

CON2-5 to CON2-3 124 volts

fill button test- ONE cycle

fill cycle voltage across CON2-7 CON2-3 0 volts
Fill cycle voltage across CON2-7 CON3-1 124 volts
 

rickgburton

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OK, that's the resistance of the ice maker coil on the dual water valve. This is the valve you replaced so it appears there's a broken wire/connection between that valve and the board.
Fill cycle voltage across CON2-7 CON3-1 124 volts
That's the correct voltage for the IM coil, it's just not getting to the coil.
 

tomv21

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Location
Huntsville, AL
Thank you SO MUCH for spending your time helping me work through this. I learned a lot. So before I spend big money on the door, does the fact that voltage went to the connecton at the entrance to the door during the ice maker fill (shown in this photo)mean that the lost connection is inside the door? Not somewhere before it gets to the door. The resistance across these two wires is infinite as well, which surprised me if they are the same pink and blue that plug in to CON3-1 and CON2-7.
 

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rickgburton

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Unfortunately LG only has wire diagrams and not schematics and the wiring diagrams are not that good. I think you're correct. The only way to check is to access the valve and check the pink wire for continuity. The blue wire is a common neutral wire for other components and you're not having any other issues so it is probably OK. Check the wires are not backing out of the connectors. Also check the wires where they go into the door hinge. The constant opening and closing the door twists the wires back and forth. I've seen (more than once) a wire break inside the wire insulation so it doesn't look broken. Give each wire a tug and see if it breaks.
 

tomv21

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Well Rick you certainly know your stuff. Orange wire pulled right out. If only there was a way to hot wire this thing. I might play around with it and see if I can fish a new wire through but I don’t think there is any way to access these is there?
 

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rickgburton

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I'm not sure on that model. I've been able to fish wires on other machines but not all machines. You don't know until you try. Here's something else to consider, when I see this problem on SXS refrigerators where the wires go up through the lower hinge, it's never just one wire. It's probably happening to others. They just haven't broke yet.
refrigerator door hinge wires.jpg
 

tomv21

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Messages
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Location
Huntsville, AL
I agree, it’s only a matter of time until another one breaks. I inherited this LG with my house when we bought it a few yrs ago. I’m thinking it’s not worth it to buy a door, I’ll just put that towards a new fridge from a manufacturer with better reliability. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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