LG LMXS30776S/01 Icemaker not filling with water

[Larry57]

Model Number

LMXS30776S/01

Brand

LG

Age

6-10 years

I Have been troubleshooting a LG LMXS30776S/1 Ice-maker that doesn't fill with water. I have changed the ice-maker unit and the lower Water inlet Valve and filter.
The Ice-maker motion is complete during the test function except not flowing any water into the tray at the end.
The water pressure to the fridge is testing good.
I have water to the door and it will dispense water at the door.
I have the manual with the parts breakdown, but the breakdown doesn't reference a part nomenclature. It shows the part with a document number but no description tied to the part.
I know the there is another water valve in the lower part of the door, wish I could find a description and how to test it.
Tired of troubleshooting with part replacement. I know my way around a multi-meter but cant find any troubleshooting manuals on how to test the valves or electrical boards and sub-boards.
Any help/references would be much appreciated.
Thank you

Larry

 

[Jake]

Hi Larry,

Yes, there is a water inlet valve in the left side door.

Here it is for your model:

LG MJX62831301 Valve,water (AP5979166) - AppliancePartsPros.com

VALVE,WATER MJX62831301 / AP5979166 made by LG

click.linksynergy.com

This video should give you the general idea of how to access it:



What I do to test it is cycle the ice maker and get your meter and take the electrical connector off the ice maker side of that water inlet valve and put your meter probes in that electrical connector and watch your meter for 120 volts towards the end of the ice maker cycle, when the ice maker should fill with water, if you get 120 volts for about 5 to 7 seconds then that water inlet valve in the door is the culprit.

 

[Larry57]

Thanks Jake,

The Ice maker side of the water inlet valve in the door that you referenced above isn't getting power to the Ice maker side. So that points to wiring, sub-board, and main board. I definitely would prefer not to troubleshoot with part replacement on these boards because I bet they are far from cheap. Any electrical schematic available? Does anyone have any other advice short of just replacing boards? I know I am probably down to a 50/50 chance on which board it is, but I would like to know as close to 100% what is failed before I start buying a board.

Thank you again,

Larry

 

[Jake]

Any electrical schematic available?

Yes Larry, I located your service manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gCpBbW5_ieFNT218Wndnw1TnlAyQTPp7/view?usp=share_link

Let us know what you find.

 

[Larry57]

Hi Jake,

Thanks again for responding and trying to help me. I have that manual, but unfortunately I couldn't find any reference in it concerning my problem related to troubleshooting no power signal to the water inlet valve in the lower part of the right door. Specifically, accessing the sub PCB board and how to troubleshoot any PCB board short of just changing it. I would prefer to avoid changing parts if not needed. Any other ideas?

Thanks again,

Larry

 

[Jake]

Nope, sorry Larry, that's all I know to do as well, LG makes their service manuals very vague, unfortunately.

 

[absolut_riley]

I have a similar ice maker issue with my LG refrigerator LMXS30776S/03. My in door ice maker doesn’t make ice UNLESS I manually reset the ice maker AND keep the door open at a 45 degree angle. If I close the door after hitting the reset button I can hear the ice maker go through the process of rotating down and back up into place and I hear a click but water doesn’t fill the tray. If I leave the door open at 45 degrees it completes that same process but after the click water fills the tray. Water will immediately stop flowing if I open the door more then 45 degrees or close the door. I have replaced the main water inlet valve (back of fridge) and the valve on the door, but neither made a difference. I suspect there is a kink in the orange water line that goes from the in the door water valve to the ice maker but I wanted to check here before I took the door completely apart to replace that hose. Plus, it’s not clear what part number that hose is from the LG parts catalog. Any thoughts on what might be causing this and how to fix? Thanks!!

 

[acgator23]

I Have been troubleshooting a LG LMXS30776S/1 Ice-maker that doesn't fill with water. I have changed the ice-maker unit and the lower Water inlet Valve and filter.

Hey Larry, I had the exact same problem you were having with the ice maker and trouble shot it down to not getting 120V to the valve. Like you I was unsure if it was the main board or sub board so I went without it for several months and manually made ice with ice trays. Recently both the ice motor and now the front water dispenser stopped working. I purchased an open box main board but that didn’t fix the problem. I returned it and bought an open box sub board (ABQ72940021) and that also did not fix the problem. I can hear the relays clicking on the sub board when I press the switch to dispense water. Now I’m not really sure what the problem is. Don’t really want to spend full price for a new main board if the open box was just bad as well. There’s a part called a Power control board (EBR64730408) and it’s description on LG says it’s for the ice and water dispenser but it looks like a really simple PCB for some buzzer so not sure if it’s really the culprit.

Were you ever able to figure yours out?

 

[LGsucks]

Hey Larry, I had the exact same problem you were having with the ice maker and trouble shot it down to not getting 120V to the valve.

I had the same problem, and had my issue fixed so im sharing.

In the hinge of the ice maker door, There should be a group of 4 wires that are thicker than the rest. The orange wire is responsible for sending 110v to the ice maker solenoid water valve. And the pink wire is responsible for sending 110v for the water dispenser and other things (like ice crusher, it mostly connects to the smelly control board on top of the fridge). They're probably broken. With the fridge off, just yank the wires to check; or you can probe the solenoid if its getting voltage. Unfortunately its impossible to fix these two cables without replacing the whole door (thats what i did). I have heard that you can "hotwire" the pink wire to the control board, but that wont fix your icemaker, and also seem very sketchy.

This problem seems very common, I have a gut feeling these wires were engineered to break.