FIXED LG LRE3023ST/00 oven/broiler not working

[Puddintane]

Model Number

LRE3023ST

Brand

LG

Age

6-10 years

I have an LG model LRE3023ST electric range. While the oven was preheating and during subsequent use of about a 20 minute baking time I could smell hot plastic. It maintained heat the entire cook time. When we tried to use the oven again a couple days later the display worked and showed the base level temperature (110°?) the oven is turned on but nothing would heat up. Neither the broiler nor the regular oven. I tested the temperature sensor and it showed the proper ohms reading (~1080). Both of the heating elements (broiler and regular oven) show continuity. But the main power supply line (black) that comes from the junction block to the relay (RY106) on the oven relay board had melted the insulation on the end of the wire and separated from the connector where it connects to the board. The relay also suffered some heat damage where the wire connects. Also, the breaker hadn’t been tripped. The unit had power throughout.

I removed the oven relay board and tried to desolder the relay, but those little retaining rings around the hole in the PCB (for the two bigger lugs) got damaged. So at a minimum I assume that I would need to replace that board. I’m wondering also if I need to replace the entire wiring harness, because it looks like that black wire that connects to the relay is part of a conjoined two-strand wire, like a lamp cord, where it attaches to the junction block where the outlet cord is attached. (I think the other part two-strand wire goes up to power the relay board at the top for the display and the burners.) So it doesn’t look like that black wire is individually replaceable.

One other thing that I noticed was that where that black wire connects to the power supply junction block the connection wasn’t previously completely snug, because it would move around a little bit. But the problem ultimately occurred at the other end causing the failure where it attaches to the relay. So I’m wondering if replacing the entire wiring harness is necessary. And also if replacing the harness along with relay control board would solve the problem. I’m not sure what caused it to fail at that point in the first place. Would there be anything else that would have caused it, or will replacing those two things do the job?

Hope this isn’t too long, but I tried to be clear and thorough. I attached a couple of pictures of the relay board and damaged wire (don’t know why it’s altering here the orientation of the photos – my apologies). The damaged relay is the one with the gray (looks white) wire and the black wire (bottom right first photo, top right in second photo). Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

[Jake]

Yes, you will need a new relay board.

Here it is for your model:
Pcb Assembly EBR74164805


For that burnt wire terminal you will need a wire stripping tool and a new metal female terminal end, take the original metal female terminal down to your local hardware store and they can match it up for you and get a wire stripping tool to splice the new metal female terminal end back on that wire. Make sure you cut the burnt part of that wire off first before stripping and splicing the new terminal end on it.

Any hardware store has them, Ace Hardware, True Value, Lowe's, Home Depot.

Here's what the wire splicing/stipping tool looks like:
Wire Splicing Tool 959


Jake

 

[Puddintane]

Thanks for the response, Jake. I can’t check it right now, but I’m not sure there’d be enough slack left in the black wire to replace the terminal end. The reason being that I’ll need to cut it back not only to get rid of the burnt copper wire but to get back beyond the damaged insulation as well, and there wasn’t much excess there in the first place. Just enough for a nice easy curve coming out of that white insulation stuff and then to connect to the relay (I attached a photo here showing how little excess is left—and I’ve yet to figure out why every image I attach here is rotated 180°!). What options have I if that’s the case?

Also, any thoughts about might have caused this anyway? Is there any other component that might be involved? Thanks again, for your help. You’re the best!

 

[Jake]

You can add some wire to it for more slack like @RFA did here:

FIXED - LRE3083ST LG Electric Oven Not Heating to Correct Temp

Hi Jake, I've included a picture of what I'm calling the "center element" below. It is part number 5521 on the diagram you included above. The broil element gets voltage when I set it to broil, or bake. The bottom hidden element and the "center element" don't get voltage in any setting. I...

www.applianceblog.com

Solder the added wire, then move the heat shrink over the solder joint an shrink for a tight fit.

Or use wire butt connector with that added wire instead of soldering it.

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

That's what I was thinking of doing (and hoping you'd say--hoping also not to have to buy a wiring harness too). But someone I spoke to about it suggested that it might not be a good idea because it might create unwanted resistance. I think I'll go ahead and do it as you suggested. Thanks again, Jake.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, let us know how it goes.

Here's a video if you need it:

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

One last question before I head out to the hardware store. Does the wire type need to match exactly? The markings on the wire say 150C 600V 14AWG. I guess I’m asking about the voltage and temperature markings, not so much the gauge. I can probably match that. When I Google it McMaster-Carr’s listing described as for high-temp use on ovens and ranges. Is the hardware store likely to have that?

 

[Jake]

Yes, the hardware stores should carry it. If not, Johnstone or Grainger or a appliance parts store would for sure.

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

Ended up going to an appliance parts place. They had 5’ pieces of 14AWG high-temp-rated bl/wh/red (all three) for $20. But then when I started trimming back the charred wire I had to take off a good inch, which already didn’t leave a lot to work with. And, to make it worse, my strippers snipped several strands of the clean wire leaving, well, not enough bare wire to solder to and then protect with shrink tube. I’m already only about 1/4” from the sleeve covered by that white sheath where I think they tapped in a smaller wire that goes to the white connector on the fuse block. Arghhh!

I attached a few more pics of what’s left, as well as the hack job done connecting the supply cord by the Sears installer who hooked up this stove originally. I mentioned here above that I had noticed that the supply wire with the issue wasn’t tightened up at the junction block. I disconnected it just now, and there’s carbon buildup on the block as well as on the lead where they didn’t have a good connection. See also the pathetic job connecting (or not, as it were!) the ground spade connector.

I think, unfortunately, I may be seeing a new wiring harness in my future! D’oh!!!

 

[Jake]

Yes, I see that.

That's the terminal block, unfortunately its been discontinued:

LG EAG32629301 Connector,terminal Block - AppliancePartsPros.com

Connector,Terminal Block EAG32629301 / AP5044023 made by LG

click.linksynergy.com

The appliance parts store in your area may be able to match it up with a universal one.

Yes, the terminal block nuts have to be very tight, lots of installers fail to tighten them enough, then they will start arcing overtime.

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

Well, dang it all anyway. Got the harness and it’s the wrong one! It turns out the one I got is for the top control board and the burners, not the oven. APP doesn’t have images of any of the harnesses. Is there a difference or a part number I should be looking for? Or does it even exist?

 

[Jake]

Here's the parts diagram: Parts for LG LRE3023ST: Cavity Parts

Did you get the 5014 wire harness?

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

I think I got the other one (3014 in the diagrams). Unfortunately, I used the part number provided by the appliance parts shop. I think they gave me the wrong part number, and bad on me for not checking. The part numbers are identical, except for a variation in the third to the last digit.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then get back into contact with them about this matter.

Jake

 

[Puddintane]

I already processed a return for the one I got, and the one that I need isn't available anywhere--even LG direct is on backorder. They say approx. seven days. Don't know how accurate that is. APP says 4-14. They're probably waiting on LG too. Hopefully, we'll have a working stove by Thanksgiving!! In the meantime the new instant pot we just got is getting broken in!

 

[Jake]

Yes, Hopefully by Thanksgiving. Fingers Crossed. 🤞

 

[Puddintane]

Problem SOLVED. I received the correct wiring harness from APP a couple weeks after ordering it (it was on backorder for about ten days). Installed the new oven relay board along with the new harness, and we're back in business. Medium pain in the butt, but still worth it considering it would easily have cost at least a couple hundred dollars more to have someone do it for us. I'll probably also replace the power cord with one with new connectors, as the old ones are a little misshapen (and possibly weakened from being straightened) due to the janky original installation (as shown in the pics above). Thanks, Jake, for all of your great advice and patience.

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good job! Glad to hear your back in business.

Thanks for the update!

Jake