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FIXED LG LSB5682SS Electric Oven: Bake burner not working

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Wayde

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Canada
Model Number
LSB5682SS
Brand
LG
Age
More than 10 years
I've got an LG electric oven, lower (bake) burner not working. Broil burner working fine.
I test continuity to lower burner and it's fine, positive continuity.

Wondering what's next?

Since two leads connect to the burner, can I test the hot lead for voltage?

There is a relay board with boxes marked for each burner and stove element, they make that "snap" sound when I assume voltage is required to the corresponding burner.
Can I test the hot lead to the burner for voltage with a normal multimeter? Since the burner itself is "good" and I work my way back, that relay board looks like the next candidate if it's what turns them on/off.
I'd like to be able to "prove" that board is broken somehow. But I assume the hot lead to the burner is passing a lot of power and I prefer not melt my multimeter or worse.

I see that relay board as a common part sold online still, but I have no idea how to prove that's the issue.

Thank you for any advice!
Wayde
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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122,790
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Wayde,

Rick explains how to test that oven relay board very clearly here in this thread:
Your model uses that exact same relay board.:)

RepairClinic ships to Canada:

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Wayde

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Mar 21, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Canada
Thanks, Jake, this looks like exactly what I needed to know. I'll reply when I get a chance to run this test. It'll have to go on my Saturday to-do list. ;) I really appreciate the reply!

Wayde
 

Jake

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Ok Wayde, sounds good. Yes, keep us posted.

Jake
 

Wayde

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Messages
6
Location
Canada
Hey, Jake. I really appreciate being pointed to that old thread, I'm in about the original poster's situation and relative level of knowledge so I really appreciated reading the step-by-step guide. But I have a few questions as my relay board is a little different.

I was going to do the test in the diagram-image four entries down in this link you shared:

That test says: "Touch one meter lead to BAKE and touch the other to L2 then BAKE. Your meter should indicate 220 VAC for both measurements."

If I'm not mistaken... I'm assuming that the two measurements test:
1/ 220AC is getting to the relay board and...
2/ 220AC is going from relay board to the element.

I assume that test 2 is the roughly the equivalent of my relay board's Tab1 and Tab17 test.

I took photos:
Here you can see my relay board and the black ground wire runs directly between the element and the board where it's plugged into a connector marked "Tab1".
bake-element.png


This image zooms into the board, top left is the Tab1 (black wire to element), to the top right the yellow wire is connected to Tab17. That yellow wire appears to (eventually) connect to the other side of the bake element in a more round-about way.
relay-board.jpg


So, on this setup, I believe if I placed my meter's leads on Tab1 and Tab17, I would be performing one of older posts's: Bake1/GND and L2 or Bake2.

But on my board I only see one measurement being made. Is there somewhere else I should be testing for 220 VAC?

I'm not going to blow anything up by touching the meter's leads to my boards Tab1(gnd) and Tab17(yellow) when the oven is turned on set to 350, right? I'm not supposed to remove any wires from their connectors, correct? My meter has a 700VAC setting too.

And if I don't get that voltage, is there somewhere else, like up by the Main PCB board I should look for that missing voltage? I've followed that yellow wire and I don't see any breaks or tears in it or any of the wiring.

Thanks for any help!
Wayde
 

Jake

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If I'm not mistaken... I'm assuming that the two measurements test:
1/ 220AC is getting to the relay board and...
2/ 220AC is going from relay board to the element.

I assume that test 2 is the roughly the equivalent of my relay board's Tab1 and Tab17 test.
That's very strange, I don't know why on yours it says Tab1 and Tab17. Don't go by the Tabs, you see it says BK above Tab1 and YL above Tab17? Go by that. That YL is BAKE as well.

Your assumption is correct Tab1 is BAKE, Tab 17 is BAKE. I don't know why yours does not show L2. So, yes just put your meter probes on both BAKE terminals when you have the oven set at 350, you won't blow your meter up.:)

Touch one meter lead to BAKE and touch the other BAKE. Your meter should indicate 220 VAC for both measurements.
LG relay board (1).jpg
 

Wayde

Premium Member
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Mar 21, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Canada
Thanks for the advice, this has been a tremendous learning experience, slow going though it is, which is my own fault for only having time on weekends. The test was easy, as I anticipated there was no voltage between Tab1 and YL (or the two Bake leads), the meter measured zero, set to 700V AC. So, that bake element is getting no energy hence no heat. That's something!

So, my question now is, does that prove the board I tested (relay board) is bad? Or, is there somewhere further up the chain that would normally provide that voltage that I should test next? The Main PCB board is mentioned in the other thread but I didn't notice any tests to it.

Thanks for any ideas, and Happy Easter!
Wayde
 

Jake

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Yes, its the relay board that's bad. You are getting voltage to the relay board because your broil element works.:)

Jake
 

Wayde

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Excellent! Thanks for everything, Jake. I'll let you guys in here know how it works when I finally get it in and install it.

Wayde
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good Wayde.

Jake
 

Wayde

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Messages
6
Location
Canada
Well, got it done today! I ordered the relay board, it came in and I finally got to install it today.

At first I was a bit nervous. After install, I turned it on looking for warmth rising from below and didn't notice any for awhile. But eventually, since the back was off I could see the familiar orange glow peaking out of the insulation in the back.

Then suddenly the temp was rising like a runaway balloon and I knew it was done. I feel like I did my job as the man of the house, even though I suck at these kinds of repairs, it wasn't so bad. I'm letting the oven cool now so I can put the back on again.

I really appreciate the help, I feel like I learned a lot and saved having to look for a deal on a new oven. The relay board definitely did it!
 

Jake

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Excellent Wayde, glad to hear the new relay board fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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