FIXED LG Refrigerator LFC23760ST - Clicking Sound

[FredB]

Model Number

LFC23760ST

Brand

LG

Age

6-10 years

LG LFC23760ST making a clicking sound for a week. Cleaned coil and fan with no result.

Existing Start Relay is Embraco 51360507, with attached Shizuki capacitor CMPS C22.2 12uF.

Ohm test between two parallel holes on start relay shows Open Line.

Because the OEM part has been discontinued, I ordered this part for overnight delivery, which I hope is correct. https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a4b200c15d709105-x31373936383532/1796852-Model-LFC23760ST-LG-Refrigerator-Compressor-Sealed-System-Parts

Upon reading other posts, I suspect I also need to order an Overload. If so, please provide the part number, as I see more than one overload on Repair Clinic.

Finally, how do I handle the run capacitor, which I assume will not perfectly fit the non-OEM replacement parts?

Thank you.

 

[FredB]

Correction, the existing Start Relay is Embraco 513605007.

 

[Jake]

Hi Fred,

The manufacturer has replaced part number 6748C0004D with part number 6749C-0014E.

Here's the compressor start device relay for your model:
6749C-0014E Compressor Start Relay


Here's the overload you'd need as well:
Overload 6750C-0004R


Jake

 

[FredB]

My repair experience - Part 1

Thanks to Jake's above information, I repaired my refrigerator. No more clicking.

In the process of researching and solving my problem, I reviewed numerous posts and looked at many photos. As a novice, I spent a decent amount of time understanding why two parts are required to replace the combined OEM Start/Overload module. Below are the fruits of my labor.

First, this link is to an extremely valuable post for understanding the overall cause of the issue, a general description of the repair parts, and details about the repair procedure. It is required reading in my opinion. https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/55218-LSC27921ST-Clicking-noise-and-freezer-not-cool?highlight=Clicking+Sound

These photos show my failed module containing the relay and overload devices upon initial removal from the side of the compressor.



These photos show the guts of the above module: a circuit board for the relay components and a white, self-contained overload device inserted into the module housing.


Look below for the sequence of steps taken to install and wire the replacement components.

 

[FredB]

My repair experience - Part 2

Using the information in the required reading post mentioned above, I completed the installation of the new parts and the wiring connections.

• The first photo shows the pin positions on my compressor.
• The second photo is a diagram from the required reading post and describes the pin positons and functions for my specific compressor.
• The next two photos show the installation of the overload device on the common pin, and the relay module over the start and run pins.
• The final photo shows the completed repair after connection of the wiring.

In the end, the actual repair took less than 15 minutes. It was the research that took some time before I felt comfortable tackling the job without making things worse. I could not have completed this repair, and saved a boatload of money, without the expert advice provided by this forum!

 

[Jake]

Excellent Fred, good job.

Thanks for the detailed update!

Jake

 

[Ncsu201]

I’m a little late to the party here but I have this exact issue on this exact fridge so this thread has been immensely helpful, a big thank you to all involved! One thing I do still have a question about, what becomes of the run capacitor when using the two new parts? Is a separate run capacitor no longer needed, does the original work, or is there a third part I need to order?

Thanks,

Will

 

[Jake]

Hi Will,

The run capacitor is not used, A run cap is not necessary for the compressor to run properly. It's only purpose is it makes the compressor run more efficiently (saves energy over a year).

Jake