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LG Refrigerator LPXS30866D Ice Maker Auger Not Turning

helloguys

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Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
Model Number
LPXS30866D
Brand
LG
Age
1-5 years
LPXS30866D 4-door refrigerator. Making ice but not dispensing ice. Water dispenser works fine. Dispenser door open and close properly. The Auger is not turning.

I replaced the auger motor(EAU60784231). Same problem. I replaced the whole icemaker assembly(EAU62563503). Same problem. So I guess the problem is outside of icemaker? I heard that it might be "actuator" problem. But where is the actuator located? How to narrow down the problem? Thank you!
 

rickgburton

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Access the sub pc board. Check for 110-115 VAC across CON2- pin#4 and Neutral while pressing the dispenser lever.
Snapshot_1.jpg
 

helloguys

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I tried to do that. But couldn't figure out which pin (or where) is Neutral. Also, do I measure from the connector? Or do I measure from the socket(on the PCB)? Thanks!
 
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helloguys

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According to service menu. I shall measure the voltage between the 4th PIN on CON2 and Neutral. But I got the following questions:
1) Where is the Neutral? How do I find it?
2) Shall I measure from the 4th PIN on the connector (where the wires are attached to), or shall I measure from the socket on the PCB board?
3) What's the direction of the electric current? I have to disconnect the connector from the socket to measure voltage. If the current goes from from socket to connector, I should measure from the socket. Then the "Change the PCB" part makes sense. If the current goes from the connector to the socket, I should measure from the connector. Then the "Change the PCB" part doesn't make sense to me (because the PCB is out of the picture in this test). Which one is it? Thanks!

CON2.png

DIAG.png
 
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rickgburton

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If your meter leads are too big, use a safety pin and go in through the back of the connector:
safety pin 500x250.jpg

Use any neutral wire. I'm not sure what's close or how long you meter leads are, but on the main board CON2- pin#5 is neutral. Measure the voltage at the auger motor. If the voltage is incorrect or 0V, and the wires are good replace the board.
 

helloguys

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Thank you rickburton! I followed the troubleshooting flowchart below. Everything seems to be checked out. Then I measured the connector that connects to the auger motor (the white connector in the 2nd picture below), I didn't get any voltage when pressing the lever. I traced those wires to the yellow connector. Then I measured the corresponding PINs at the yellow socket at the top. I didn't get voltage reading either.

How is the yellow socket connected to the dispenser PCB board? If I have voltage at the PCB board but not at the yellow socket, what could be the potential cause? Would it still be a PCB board problem? Thanks!

TShoot.png


IMG_3376a.png


IMG_3375a.png
 

helloguys

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Maybe I didn't measure the yellow socket correctly. If I use a current detector, I detect current on the yellow socket when the lever was pushed. Based on the auger motor wiring, here's my guess of the yellow socket PIN layouts:

Upper row, 2nd from right: Neutral
Lower row, 1st from right: Auger motor run wire
Lower row, 2nd from right: Auger motor start wire

What is the correct way to measure those PINs to confirm they output proper voltage to the motor? Thanks!
 

helloguys

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Here's the latest test result on the ice maker white connector(that connects to the auger motor).

When lever is not pushing:
Grey: 0
White: 0
Black: 0

When lever is pushing:
Grey: 115V
White: 0
Black: 0

Is this normal? Shall I get any voltage reading on the motor "start wire"? Thank you!
 

rickgburton

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OK, Let's try this again;
Access the sub pc board. Check for 110-115 VAC across CON2- pin#4 and Neutral while pressing the dispenser lever.
 

rickgburton

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helloguys

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But I already replaced the motor (twice). Same problem.

First time, I replaced the motor. Same problem - the auger is not turning. Second time, I replaced the whole ice maker assembly, including the motor. Same problem - the auger is not turning.

It is very unlikely that both motors are bad. That's why I start suspecting the problem is not the motor. I measured the resistance of the motors. It is in the proper range (31.1-42.1 ohm).

Sorry for newbie questions. I saw there are 3 wires connected to the motor. I guess they are run wire, start wire and neutral. Is that correct? Which one is PIN#4 corresponding to? I guess it is the run wire? Would it be possible that the other wires cause problem? Say, if the start wire doesn't supply power? Thanks!
 
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helloguys

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I think I narrowed down the problem. But I don't know how to fix it. There seems to be a problem with the neutral wire of the CON2(auger motor).

There's a yellow cable harness that connects the ice maker assembly to the door (see picture below).
Yellow-Harness.png


By tracing the wires to the auger motor, these wires seem to be relevant:
  1. White (upper row, second from right) - motor run wire.
  2. Green/Yellow (upper row, first from right) - motor ground wire.
  3. Grey (lower row, second from right) - motor start wire.
  4. Black (lower row, first from right) - motor neutral wire.
I tried to measure the voltage of the run and start wires above. If I use an external neutral wire (such as an extension cord from the wall outlet), I got 117v on the run and start wires when I push the ice dispensing lever, which is expected. However, if I use the black wire as neutral wire, I got no reading.

My questions are:
Is the black wire supposed to be the neutral wire? If yes, where is it going to? Do I have to take apart the door to trace it? Thank you!
 

rickgburton

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LG would like to know why nobody wants to work on their appliances. I wish they would call me! LOL

I found the wiring diagram for your model and troubleshooting steps. It's probably the same one you have. The tests for the auger motor is Cubed and Crushed. The auger motor turns one direction for cube and the other direction for crushed so Cube is pin #4 and Crushed is pin #12. The board somehow uses the motor capacitor to change direction. Pin 4 is before the cap and pin #12 is after the cap.
LG -1.jpg

Abd "B" neutral is on the main board CON2 pin #5
LG-2.jpg

So, if you're following the troubleshooting steps for cube, and assuming "geared" and "auger" are the same, these are the voltage checks and resistance checks. Now it gets interesting.

LG-CUBE.jpg

These are the voltage checks and resistance for Crushed. The only difference is the direction of the motor (pin 4 vs pin 12).
LG-CRUSHED.jpg

Both troubleshooting tests say if the voltage measurements are correct, check the resistance. Same parts, different values. (?? LG crap)
 

helloguys

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Thank you for the information. Yes, that's what I had. Now the problem seems to be the neutral PIN on the door housing (where the ice maker connects to) is open. the cube and crush PIN is fine (117v). How do I trace the wire to find out why the neutral PIN is open? Obviously, replacing the whole door will fix the problem, but that's a $600-$700 cost.
 

helloguys

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You have neutral at the main board but not the auger motor??
According to the service manual, there is no neutral PIN at the board. I used an external neutral to measure the voltage of other PINs.

I trace it to the ice maker cable housing on the door (the female side of the coupling). The socket that connects the black wire (neutral wire) of the motor seems to be open.
 

rickgburton

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there is no neutral PIN at the board.
Sure there is. I marked it for you. Instead of connecting the wires to the board in the schematic they use letters. In this case "B". CON2 pin 5 on the main board is neutral.
 

helloguys

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Sure there is. I marked it for you. Instead of connecting the wires to the board in the schematic they use letters. In this case "B". CON2 pin 5 on the main board is neutral.
I might be wrong. But according to wiring diagram, pin 5 is connected directly to pin 4, which means pin 5 is also a live wire. The purpose of pin 5 and 6 is to get the capacitor connected to the motor in serial.

According to the wiring diagram, CON2 pins are as below:

1) "Input" is pin 7, which feeds 110v to the board
2) All other pins are output, which feeds 110v to the motor, water valve, heater, etc.

The neutral is at the far end, not at the board. Thank you!

Wiring.png


BTW, the letters below the pin numbers are indicating the wire color, e.g. SB represent "Sky Blue". It does not indicate "B" (Neutral).
 

rickgburton

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I might be wrong.
You are most definitely wrong. I've tried to explain it several times and you just don't get it. Are you reading what I post? After 15 years of answering questions on this site, I learned

a long time ago that some people are going to do what they want to do, and believe what they want to believe, no matter what anyone tells them. Nothing short of holding your hand and walking you thu each step is going to help you, and to be honest I don't have the time. So when you finally give up, and you will, we'll be here. Good luck!
40x32-smile 3.jpg
 
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