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LG Refrigerator LPXS30866D Ice Maker Auger Not Turning

helloguys

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
You are most definitely wrong. I've tried to explain it several times and you just don't get it. Are you reading what I post? After 15 years of answering questions on this site, I learned

a long time ago that some people are going to do what they want to do, and believe what they want to believe, no matter what anyone tells them. Nothing short of holding your hand and walking you thu each step is going to help you, and to be honest I don't have the time. So when you finally give up, and you will, we'll be here. Good luck!View attachment 61484
Sorry, I was just trying to learn here.

If pin 4 is live wire, and pin 5 is neutral, can you please explain the direct wire between 4 and 5? I attached another wiring diagram here which is easier to read.
Wiring2.png


I was talking about the sub board, you were talking about the main board. The sub board is on the same door as the ice maker. The main board is at the back of the refrigerator chassis. The door is connected to the chassis with wire harnesses. If the neutral wire is bad at the door level, I don't see why we need to test at the chassis level.

Below is my drawing. I measured continuity on point #1 and #2. It looks like the neutral wire is open for some reasons. Thus I don't see why we should test on the main PCB. And I guess that's where the confusion is. As you kept talking about CON2 but didn't distinguish CON2 on sub-PCB and CON2 on main-PCB.
MyWiring.png
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
44,295
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Sorry, I was just trying to learn here.
I'm happy to help you troubleshoot your auger motor my friend but I'm not going to teach you appliance repair. I'll give you a couple manuals that might be some help

We were troubleshooting the auger motor. I have no idea how you ended up at the ice maker unless the ice maker is also not working.

If pin 4 is live wire, and pin 5 is neutral
Pin 5 is not neutral.

From post #5:
I found the wiring diagram for your model and troubleshooting steps. It's probably the same one you have. The tests for the auger motor is Cubed and Crushed. The auger motor turns one direction for cube and the other direction for crushed so Cube is pin #4 and Crushed is pin #12. The board somehow uses the motor capacitor to change direction. Pin 4 is before the cap and pin #12 is after the cap.
Take a look at this wiring diagram. Current flow for cube is red, and crushed is blue. The neutral side is the black and goes to a circle with the letter "B" in it. If you check the wiring diagram it's marked N for Neutral.
LPXS30866D-auger motor.jpg



LG makes their wiring diagrams different than everybody else. Instead of showing the wires between the boards it shows letters in a circle and you find the same letter and circle on the board it is connected to. Main board connector CON2 pin #5 shows it goes to a circle with a "B" Just like connect the dots, start and end on the same letter.


LG-1.jpg

Don't forget to check the voltage for the cap duct motor. You posted the checks in post #4. Follow them.
 

Attachments

  • Electrical Theory and Diagnosis of Major Appliances.pdf
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  • How to use Test Equipment.pdf
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helloguys

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
Thank you very much!

I had a appliance technician came check the refrigerator. He didn't tell me anything I don't know. I printed out the wiring diagram for him. He checked the wires. Then he agreed with me it's probably the wiring inside the door. I called LG parts department a couple times. It took them quite some time to "guess" the wire harness part number could be "EAD60704023". They are not 100% sure as there's no (real) picture on their side (only conceptual line arts). Since it's only a couple bucks, I went ahead to order it. I'll update the post when I receive it.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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That's not going to be the correct wire harness. I think you'll find the wire harness is foamed in the door and can't be replaced without replacing the door. I have 2 questions for you. Is the ice maker working? What wire are you calling neutral?
 

helloguys

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
That's not going to be the correct wire harness. I think you'll find the wire harness is foamed in the door and can't be replaced without replacing the door. I have 2 questions for you. Is the ice maker working? What wire are you calling neutral?

Ice maker is working, which means, it makes ice cubes. It's just the auger motor not running.

There are three wires connected to the auger motor: white, grey and black. White and grey both offer 110V. So I guess the black one has to be the neutral wire. I traced the black wire to the 20-pin wire housing at the top of the compartment (see picture below). The black wire is corresponding to the lower-right corner slot.
IMG_3375a.png


I don't know how this slot is connected to the harness on the top of the door (through the hinge hole). But it seems that the 6-pin harness(see below) is for high-voltage wires. The yellow wire is live(110v). The orange and the two blue wires are zero volt. I guess the two blue wires are neutral as the voltage between yellow and either of the blue wire is 110v (on the chassis side). On the door side, only one of the blue wire has continuity to the 20-pin socket mentioned above, and it is NOT the lower-right corner one.
IMG_3458.JPG


Basically, I'm trying to find out the wiring diagram between the 20-pin socket and the 6-pin harness.
 

helloguys

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Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
That's not going to be the correct wire harness. I think you'll find the wire harness is foamed in the door and can't be replaced without replacing the door. I have 2 questions for you. Is the ice maker working? What wire are you calling neutral?
I agree with you. IF it is really a wiring problem, I'd have to get the whole door. Before I pull the trigger, are there any possible causes that the motor doesn't work while white and grey wires feeding 110v to it?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
that the 6-pin harness.......The yellow wire..........The orange and the two blue wires......the 20-pin socket.......white and grey wires feeding 110v.....
I'm not going to play "find Waldo" with wires. Main board CON2-5 is neutral. Can't you find it?
I'm trying to find out the wiring diagram between the 20-pin socket and the 6-pin harness.
You have the wiring diagram. Page 28 in your manual. I'll post it for you:
Snapshot_4.jpg
 

helloguys

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Texas
I'm not going to play "find Waldo" with wires. Main board CON2-5 is neutral. Can't you find it?

You have the wiring diagram. Page 28 in your manual. I'll post it for you:

I tested pin 5 (blue, neutral) and pin 9(orange, live). I got 117v. So it looks like the neutral wire is good on the main board.
Main-CON2.JPG


But I don't know how to trace the neutral wire to the wire harness under the hinge cover (see below), which is a 6-pin plug with two blues, one orange, one yellow(live).
Hinge-6-pin.png


The wires under the hinge cover go inside the door foam and somehow get to the ice maker harness (20-pin). What connect to the auger motor are pin 9, 10, 19, 20 as marked in the picture below.
Pin 9 connects to white wire on the motor (live, cube ice).
Pin 10 connects to green/yellow wire (ground).
Pin 19 connects to grey wire (crushed ice).
Pin 20 connects to black wire (neutral).
icemaker-20-pin.png


Now the problem seems to be pin 20 (neutral) is open. I expect it to have continuity to the wire harness under the hinge cover. Most likely pin 3 (blue) on the hinge 6-pin plug. Because pin 6 (blue) on the hinge plug has continuity to pin 8 on the ice maker 20-pin plug.
 
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