LGHB2869TF9 slow water at inlet

[ApplianceFirst]

Model Number

LGHB2869TF9

Brand

Frigidaire

Age

1-5 years

Merry Christmas everyone!

I am working on a Frigidaire Refrigerator and was getting slow water flow at the dispenser and both ice makers producing slow ice, and the freezer side ice maker would constantly drip creating large icicles. I was told the ice maker in the freezer started leaking as soon as the slow flow started. I tried water coming from wall, was good, tried inlet and removed yellow water tube (goes to dispenser) and both were very slow as well. I put in an ice maker for freezer and new inlet, but still the same flow. I checked water coming directly from brown solenoid (first one) and it was just as slow...

Not going to lie I was scratching my head, could it be a second bad inlet? I saw 120vac on the inlet, so I said 'hey why not check the power on the brown solenoid'. I put meter on had customer hit the dispenser and I only got 68vac. Could this be a control issue? I'm not 100% sure if this is normal voltage, but I would assume it should be 120vac like it says on both the old and new inlet valve.

Any direction is appreciated, thanks and happy holidays

 

[Jake]

Merry Christmas!

I put meter on had customer hit the dispenser and I only got 68vac. Could this be a control issue?

Yes, it should be 120 volts, so its a bad main control board.

Here's the main control board for your model:

Frigidaire 5304510307 Board Assembly (AP6261576) - AppliancePartsPros.com

BOARD ASSEMBLY 5304510307 / AP6261576 made by Frigidaire

click.linksynergy.com

 

[ApplianceFirst]

Thanks Jake, hope you had a great Christmas sir.

 

[Jake]

Thanks, you too!

Did the main control board fix it?

 

[ApplianceFirst]

Waiting for order, will let you know

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

The control board did not fix it. Now I'm kind of lost.

Put new freezer ice maker. Now the freezer ice maker does not drip anymore, but it also doesn't run at all...
I after new inlet no change, was getting 68vac.
So I went back and tried a new control. Everything is exactly as it was with the old control, was still getting slow flow and 68vac at the inlet.

Could it be the filter head? I tried to test it but did not have a water line coupler for the larger size and it doesn't come out of the head, have to order the whole head/line as a single part. I put flat hex bit on the filter button and pressed it, through the head it was about the same speed as the dispenser, so its not the filter.

Or could it still be the solenoid on inlet only getting 68vac? When I am actively pressing the dispenser, two solenoids open correct? The voltage is not split between the two is it? Should a single solenoid definitely be 120vac? If so, what else could cause this? I did take pics of the tech sheet, but I didn't see anything about what it should read.

 

[Jake]

Or could it still be the solenoid on inlet only getting 68vac?

You should be getting 120 volts at each solenoid when you press the water dispenser lever.

In your first post you said this:

Not going to lie I was scratching my head, could it be a second bad inlet? I saw 120vac on the inlet, so I said 'hey why not check the power on the brown solenoid'. I put meter on had customer hit the dispenser and I only got 68vac.

When did you see 120 volts on the inlet? Because it should be 120 volts to the water inlet valve ONLY when you press the water dispenser lever.

The YELLOW solenoid on your water inlet valve is the one that goes to the water dispenser. Just check for 120 volts at the electrical connectors to the YELLOW one when in TEST 8.

You will need a multimeter to volt test.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
242253002 Valve-Water


For others following your thread--->How to use a multimeter to test video.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

Yes I'm getting 68vav from one terminal to the next on the brown solenoid (the main one that actually inlets water). I circled it on above pic.

I was getting the same after new inlet. I was also getting the same after I installed new control board under the front of fridge.

Still same problems.

Do you think the new inlet was also bad? Would I still get 120v even if the inlet was bad?

 

[Jake]

Do you think the new inlet was also bad? Would I still get 120v even if the inlet was bad?

You'd still be getting 120 volts to that water inlet valve, even if it was bad.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

I found this post https://www.applianceblog.com/mainf...frigerator-ice-maker-water-valve-issue.90135/

It got me wondering if it was infact something to do with wiring harness, and I found other posts on the net with similar issues. I did notice something like the part you mentioned on the above post. I looked on Sears as APP did not have the exact model and of course there is a wiring harness with diodes, no pic, however I believe this may be the culprit as the inlet and control were both new (however I did pull board as to expensive to leave).

What are your thoughts on this?

 

[Jake]

Ok, yes I see it: Harness-Electrical 5304521779

Did you check the voltage and diodes with your meter per this chart?

If the voltage is less than 120 volts the isolation diodes are probably burned out. Use the diode check function

on your meter (or lowest ohms scale R x 1). Disconnect the 2 wire connector on the brown coil and insert the red test lead on the tan/yel wire. Disconnect the 2 wire connector on the yellow coil and touch the black test lead to the tan wire. Your meter should indicate 0 ohms. If it shows 1 or infinite/open replace the diodes.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

No I didn't even consider it really before doing the inlet and control and NOTHING changing. The issue is this fridge is an hour from me.

Outside the inlet and control, could there be anything else besides this harness with diode?

I'm used to failed inlet valves, this is a new experience for me

 

[Jake]

Outside the inlet and control, could there be anything else besides this harness with diode?

Only a broken or shorted wire to the water inlet valve, other than that I'm puzzled too.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

OK man I ordered the harness yesterday. I'll test it when I get there and let you know

 

[Jake]

Yes, keep us posted.

 

[ApplianceFirst]

We will never know. You can close this.

 

[Jake]

What do you mean by that?