LGQ9858LW0 Whirlpool gas dryer won't heat

AWSHandy

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
180
Location
Chicago, IL
Model Number
LGQ9858LW0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Ok, thought I had an easy one. The gas dryer will not heat yet turns. The dryer continues to turn even when door opened. I figured thermal fuse, igniter, door switch. Changed them today and no heat, and the dryer continues to turn sometimes yes sometimes no when door opened. Should have also changed solenoid valve...what about flame sensor? What else could I be missing. Thanks as always, in advance.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,380
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
AWSHandy said:
The dryer continues to turn even when door opened.
That's got to be your door switch. The door switch breaks the Neutral circuit to the entire dryer except the drum light. If you got a bad door switch or if it's intermittent, that's going to screw up the voltage to the gas valve. If that was a new switch see if you can exchange it. That should solve both problems.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
101,461
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, I agree with Rick.

Here's the door switch for your model:
Door Switch WP3406107


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

AWSHandy

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
180
Location
Chicago, IL
Jake and Rick,

The new door switch I installed is fine. The connector was not tight enough. I fixed that and the motor turns off as required when the door is opened. The old switch was definitely bad. No click...always open. Now the flame...that is another story. Today I installed new coils. So that makes new coils, igniter, thermal fuse, and door switch. Still no heat. The gas shutoff is definitely turned to on. I've attached a wiring diagram, even though this is like any other medium/low end dryer. What else could prevent the burner from firing?
 

Attachments

AWSHandy

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
180
Location
Chicago, IL
The last things I can think of are the cycling thermostat, the timer or electronic control which is a stand alone board. This machine has no bottom panel, so I have to take the whole front off to get to valves, burner, igniter, etc... no good way to get a multimeter on it when in operation. Also...what can prevent gas from valves to burner to igniter?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,380
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Thanks Jake!
Take the dryer apart. Remove the drum, belt, and idler pulley. Temporarily bypass the door switch by connecting the white wire and blue wire together. Disconnect the two wire connector for the gas valve. Start the dryer on timed dry about 40 minutes and select high heat. Check for 120 VAC in the connector.
 

AWSHandy

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
180
Location
Chicago, IL
Ok Rick,

I can do that. If I find that the coils or igniter not getting 120V, what then? Trace wires and replace back to timer? I guess that is better than replacing timer and still having same issue. The thing I do not get, is it would seem very odd to lose continuity unless something burned which would also seem odd. Those things don't just happen.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,380
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Lets just go one step at a time. You tell me if you have 120 VAC at the connector and I'll tell you what to check next.
 
Top