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FIXED LRSPC2341SW Refrigerator stopped cooling - fan runs, click-hum-click


Premium Member
Apr 29, 2015
costa Mesa, ca
Model Number
My Fridge stopped cooling. Symptoms: I hear click and a hum, then after 10 seconds another click and the hum stops. I unplugged it for 30 minutes then plugged back in. Still same symptoms. I took off the back panel and cleaned out any dust and lint off fan, coils and vents. I plugged back in and noticed the fan runs then I hear the click-hum-click noise coming from the condenser or the component on the side of the compressor. I'm including a pic of the component that is causing the click noise. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.


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Sounds like the compressor is locked up. What you're hearing is the compressor trying to start (the hum) and it's drawing a lot of amps which is causing the overload to open (the click). Here's a diagram how to check the compressor and relay overload. If the compressor is bad it may not be worth repairing as the repair costs will usually exceed the machines value.
Compressor Testing 2.jpg
By the way, if its not the compressor, I think that relay that is on the side of the compressor is OEM Part - Manufacturer #6750JA3001B, but I'm finding it is not available. Is there another part number that will work?
Rick, I'm trying to test the ohms on the relay/overload, but having a hard time making sense of how mine relates to the one in the diagram. Hate to admit, I'm kind of a noob. I think I've got the compressor though. Mine is the compressor with one pin on the bottom and two on the top. I tested the far top pin, which according to this diagram is "R" and the ohms are about 3 and when I tested the "S" pin to common it was about 6.

I'm including a pic of my components. Thanks

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The compressor rotor can be locked and the windings still OK. Since you measured 6 ohms on the start windings I would normally say the compressor is bad. Before I do, lets see if we can eliminate the rest. The overload is probably good or it wouldn't open and close. You can test it by measuring the resistance between the wire terminal on the front and the hole that goes over the compressor pin in the back. You should have less than one ohm or closed/continuity. On the relay (PTC) measure the resistance between the run and start wire terminals. You should have between 3 and 12 ohms.

Some machines use a run capacitor. It's not necessary for the compressor to run, it helps the compressor run more efficiently. Almost every manufacturer has eliminated the need for a start capacitor except one or two and you guessed it, yours has both. A faulty start capacitor could cause the issue you're having. The start capacitor and run capacitor are located on the top of the machine by the main control board. Remove the cover to access them.

To test the start capacitor, remove the wires and set your meter on the 10K ohms scale. Touch your meter leads to the capacitor terminals. Your meter should show several thousand ohms and then slowly fall back to infinity (open). Some of the less expensive (cheap) meters don't have the capacity to test capacitors in which case you can use a 9 Volt battery and a couple jumper wires to test it. If the overload, relay and start capacitor test good, the compressor is bad. Here's a diagram to help you:
Relay Overload Capacitor Test.jpg
The overload came up with about .6, so it is less than one. The start capacitor did as you said, jumped up and then fell to nothing. I also did the 9 yolt tst on the start capacitor and it stays at 9.75 volts the whole time, so I imagine it is good. The PTC, I hope I touched the right posts, because no matter what pair I touch, I get nothing. I'm including a picture of mine, because the one in the diagram looks like it has 4 posts and mine only has three. I assumed on mine S and R are the blue and pink wires on the left. I touch those and I get nothing. No response.
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Thanks. Ill do that and hope that I re-connect everything right. My Uncle said he was going to come over and test my compressor with something called a hard to start kit, but when I couldn't find the horsepower, he said I may as well buy the relay and go that route. I hope it works, I ll get back to you when I put it in. Thanks again.
Rick, I replaced the part you said and it seems to be running fine now. I noticed the ptc rattled when I shook it. I should have tried shaking it before.

I have a guess how this part failed. I noticed white oxidized mark on top of the cover as if something had been dripping on it. I noticed one of the copper tubes that passes above this had same white marks. This tube exits the interior of the fridge and has a white rubber grommet around it that seemed to be loose. Im speculating that liquid or condensation dripped down that tube and got on the electrical. If so that is a poor design.

Thank you so much for your help. I can't believe its running again :)
The older models or models with a static condensor have the defrost pan mounted on top of the compressor. Looks like someone set a brownie pan on top the compressor and forgot it. It rusted through and did the same thing. Every model has a poor design somewhere in it. I'm glad you got the refrigerator working. 90% of the time the compressor is shot or locked up with those exact symptoms. Now you're a member of the luck 10%...LOL Good job!
I'm just glad its working. By the way, for future reference, do you know what the Horsepower is on that compressor? I'm only curious because it seemed strange that it was impossible to discover by in depth research. I am really happy to be in the Lucky 10% club, but it was thanks to you I learned that good news :)
This thread helped me fix an old Kitchenaid KSRG25FKWH17 for the cost of the start relay--less than $40. Lightning storm took it out and was causing symptoms identical to OP's. You guys are awesome.

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