LSN1000KQ0 Whirlpool washer was clunking now makes whining sound and won't spin

Street Rod Ben

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
7
Location
St George, UT
Model Number
LSN1000KQ0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
I've read some other posts but nothing seems to be the same Issue I'm having... About two or three loads ago my wife said the washer started making a clunking noise like metal on metal. She showed me the noise during it's last load. After that load I ran it through a small cycle with no clothes and the clunking stopped. It agitates fine and does not make any strange noises in wash mode. But it started squealing in spin mode, it drained fine but wouldn't spin at all. In spin mode the agitator seems to rock back and forth 1/8" or less as it's only movement. The door switch is fairly new and tested and is working fine.

I pulled the motor out and checked the coupler, it looked fine, nothing broken, cracked, or wear debris at all. I checked the clutch which had some wear on the pads and wear/heat marks on the drum so I replaced it, clutch kit included the housing/ drum, a clutch ring, a brake arm, and two springs. The instructions said the "blue" heavy duty spring was installed. If it was a light duty washer then the extra "Black" spring should be installed instead. However the actual spring installed was dark blue and the extra spring was light blue. What?? My original spring was also a darker blue and since the instructions said the new installed spring was for heavy duty I left it alone and installed the assembly as is. I also replaced the thin plastic ring between the agitator halves because it was broken, and the agitator dogs just because they're cheap and it was apart. Nothing changed, it had the same symptoms.

I then yanked the inner metal tub and found the drive block looks fine, no obvious wear at all.

I found an article that said to remove the washer housing, jump the switch plug and turn it on in spin mode and see if the clutch was spinning. I did that and the clutch wasn't spinning, even with the metal drum removed. The only movement at the clutch was ever so slightly rocking back and forth. I could see the motor shaft was spinning and the transmission had to be because the coupler's good.

I'm not quite sure how the brake functions so I don't know how to diagnose if it's bad. When I had the transmission out I found the shaft had some play in it- if I grabbed the top I could move the shaft back and forth a little, maybe 1/8" movement at the top of the shaft. When I spun it in either direction by hand it would go maybe 2-3 complete turns and got tight.

The way I see it the brake and transmission are the only parts left that could be bad. Thoughts?

How does the brake and clutch normally function together? Should the clutch have been spinning when I visually checked it in spin mode? Could a bad brake stop it from spinning?

Or does it look like I have a bad gear box?

I've seen gear boxes from $140 to over $200. Is there a difference or is it just one parts distributor charging more than another?

Is there a good recommended resource for the brake and/or transmission? Is a less expensive unit trustable?

Thanks for any insight!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,697
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Ben,

Or does it look like I have a bad gear box?
Yes, the clutch should of been turning in spin, since it wasn't, that indicates your transmission is the problem.

Here's the transmission for your model you can order(HOW TO video is in this link):
3360629 Neutral Drain Transmission


I've seen gear boxes from $140 to over $200. Is there a difference or is it just one parts distributor charging more than another?
We recommend AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic, we have been with them for over 10 years and they are very reliable and have a great reputation.:) We also get a small commission that goes back into our site for server costs to keep our Blog Forum Free to use.:)

I recommend replacing the basket drive as well since you'll have the machine apart already, and since you already replaced the clutch too, as all these parts work together and it last you another 15 years.

Here's the basketdrive for your model you can order(HOW TO video is in this link):
W10820043 Basktdrive


Jake
 

Street Rod Ben

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
7
Location
St George, UT
Thanks Jake, that's what I figured. I just ordered it from that link, thanks.

Any insight on the clutch spring? It says to use the blue one but they're both blue, one dark one light. I think I may have read somewhere that the heavy duty machines take the longer of the two springs or do I have that backwards?

Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,697
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds good Ben.:)


Blue spring is for large capacity washers, black for compacts washers.

The SHORTER SPRING is for compact washers, most are black or green in color. I'm surprised yours looks blue.

Just make sure the LONGER SPRING is what you use for your normal washer.:)

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
102,697
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Glad to help Ben.:)

Yes, please let us know how it goes!

Jake
 

Street Rod Ben

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
7
Location
St George, UT
The transmission finally showed up today. I got it in and it fills and agitates fine. When spin mode comes up it drains but never kicks into gear, it just makes kind of a loud growling noise. If I push the dial to turn it off it engages the gears as it's shutting down, you hear a click and you can see the agitator jump. Turn it back on and it spins like normal. After the spin cycle it goes into rinse mode fine, fills, agitates and the same thing happens, drains but no spin, just a loud noise. I turn it off after a few minutes of waiting for it to start spinning and again it engages the gears. Turn it back on and it spins fine and finishes the cycle fine.

Could I have hooked up something wrong? It's never had this problem before.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
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Messages
102,697
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That's odd, you ordered the transmission from AppliancePartsPros? From the link to it I posted above?

Jake
 

Street Rod Ben

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
7
Location
St George, UT
I ran 2 small loads with no clothes and 2 small loads with clothes last night to test it. None of the loads would spin on their own, I had to turn the washer off and back on to get them to spin. My wife did 3 medium loads today. She said the first one spun on it's own for the transition for the first wash to rinse cycle but would not spin on it's own after that. The two following loads wouldn't spin on their own for any cycle.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
102,697
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Do you notice when it finishes draining does the motor shut off and pause for a few seconds then the motor comes back on but not spinning? Or no motor pause at all?

The transmission is a neutral spin. After the wash cycle completes, the machine starts the drain cycle almost immediately. After approximately two minutes the timer will pause the motor operation for a few seconds causing the clutch to engage the spin tube and release the brake and continues into the spin cycle.

Most ( not all ) direct drive washers are a neutral drain washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the water and then the timer pauses ( stops ) the washer so the neutral drive in the gearbox can reset for spinning, and when the timer allows the washer to start back up again the pumping will continue and spinning will occur.

You should be able to see the pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.

--->The water should drain out first then the timer tells the motor to shut off for about 20 seconds, then the timer tells the motor to restart, then the brake will disengage and it will spin.

Does it not spin on ALL CYCLES? If this issue is intermittent, you will have to baby sit the washer to see if the timer is telling the motor to pause and shut down for 20 seconds.

I had this same issue on a customer when I worked at Sears in Oregon, I went to their house 5 times and I never saw it once do this while I was there(THE TIMER ALWAYS PAUSED THE MOTOR), and I stayed during the whole cycle each time.

If the timer DOES NOT pause the motor, then your timer is bad too.

Here's the timer for this model:
Whirlpool 3951702 Timer


Jake
 

Street Rod Ben

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2018
Messages
7
Location
St George, UT
Hi Jake life has been crazy busy and I'm finally getting around to dealing with this. At first it wouldn't spin only on the regular wash mode and would spin almost every time on it's own on the delicate or hand wash mode. Then it got to the point that it would not spin on it's own on any mode. What we have now is it does not spin on either spin cycle unless we shut it off, which gives it an audible kick it into gear and I can see the basket jump, much like putting your car into gear. Then we turn it on again and it spins fine for that cycle. As per your question above we have to do this for both spin cycles. Sometimes we go to turn it off and on again and are surprised to see it spinning on it's own, but it's totally random and not very often. Seems before I changed the clutch and transmission it spun fine.

We've debated cutting our losses and buying a new machine but our finances say we would rather not do that. If it is the timer, financially a $130 repair cost compared to a new machine is a no brainer. On the other hand I don't want to spend the $130 that could go towards a new machine and find that it doesn't resolve the issue. At that point I'd probably be so frustrated at all the $ that went into rebuilding this one that could've gone towards a new one, I'd probably throw the machine off the balcony, lol. ;)

I know it's tough to diagnose things without being here to see what's happening, and I've also read of other folks having issues with not spinning and it's suggested the clutch assembly is bad. Seeing as how the problem started after changing the clutch and shortly later the transmission could I have installed the clutch assembly wrong so that it's not doing what it's supposed to? Or in your best guess opinion is it more likely that this machine is old enough that everything broke down all around the same time and the timer simply isn't working?

As always thanks for your opinion and wisdom.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,697
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, if you don't hear that pause, then it has to be a bad timer.:)

It's a hard decision on putting more money into it I know, but I would if I was you, they don't make them this good anymore, except for Speed Queen!

Jake
 
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