FIXED LSQ9544KQ0 Whirlpool Washer Clothes very wet after spin cycle

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Model Number

LSQ9544KQ0

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

Hi!
I have a washing machine that has started to leave the clothes very wet after the final spin cycle. The clothes need to be ringed dry before they are placed in the dryer.
Make: Whirlpool
Model Number: LSQ9544KQ0
This particular washing machine is installed in an apartment and probably gets a lot of use. I'm familiar with performing basic repairs on this machine and over the last few years I've replaced agitator dogs, motor coupling, timer, etc.
I ran some basic tests on the machine today, and I see the machine does agitate, fills, drains, and the basket spins. But the clothes still come out very wet. I ran a cycle with one towel, and the towel was very wet at the end of the cycle.
Any tips on what to check? I was wondering if the problem is the basket is spinning too slow? Could the problem be a worn out clutch?

 

[Jake]

You can't run just one item, it throws the tub off-balance and it will never spin properly.

Throw a few items in it and see how it does. If nothing changes I'd first check your motor coupler and see if its worn out(rubber shavings on your floor) or if any of the plastic fingers on it have broken.

Here's the motor coupling for your model:
285753A Motor Coupling


If your motor couple looks fine, then you'd need a new clutch. Whenever I replace the clutch I always replace the basket drive assembly as well, as they both work together.

Here's the clutch for your model:
285785 Clutch Assembly


Here is the basket drive assembly for your model:
W10820043 Basktdrive


Videos to replace each part are included on each part page.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[lqqk_out]

OK, I replaced the clutch assembly (285785) today. I believe the old clutch assembly was defective since on the old unit I was able to easily spin the band/lining while holding the outer basket. I wasn't able to spin the new one. I checked the motor coupling and that seemed OK. I've replaced this particular motor coupling last year (12/05/2020). I buttoned up the machine and unfortunately, it's still not working properly.
The agitation now seems VERY slow and the tub doesn't seem to spin. I also hear a strange sound. I thought I may have assembled something improperly, so I took out the transmission again and re-installed it. No change.
Any thoughts or possible things to test? Do you think the transmission is defective? I did see a bit of oil on the transmission, but it didn't look like a problem.

 

[Jake]

Yes, its best to replace the transmission and basket drive and ALSO check the drive block, when any washer gets over 10 years old, its like doing a overhaul, as all those parts have naturally worn out the same.

Here's the tub drive block for this model:
Drive Block WP389140


There is a video in the tub drive block part link that shows you how to access it.

You can see the comparison here:

See the one on the left, its the old one, the one on the right is the new one. It has to have those 2 ear slots. Does yours look like the one on the left or right?

Let us know.

You will need to also order a spanner wrench to remove it if its bad:

Sea TB123B Spanner Wrench (AP6832671) - AppliancePartsPros.com

This tool is a spanner wrench that is specifically designed for use with washing machine repairs. The spanner wrench is used to offer a good grip and exceptional mechanical advantage to apply torque when turning or preventing turning for items like nuts and bolts. This specific spanner wrench is...

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

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Wow, this was a bit frustrating. After a nights sleep I was ready to tackle this problem once again. I like to work as a gentleman, and unfortunately the location of the laundry room in this particular apartment didn't lend itself to that. The washer, dryer and HVAC system are in what I would call a small closet. To be able to work on the washing machine, I need to take the folding doors off the closet, take the dryer out of the closet (because the washer is slightly behind a wall) and move the dryer into the hallway, then take the washing machine out of the closet and move it also into the hallway. Keep in mind this hallway is only 42-1/2" wide. Not very much room to work or get by when I need to get tools, etc.

Yesterday, when I removed the transmission to replace the clutch, I only viewed/looked at the motor coupling. I didn't see any broken parts and the coupling seemed to rotate properly. Plus, according to my records I replaced this particular part about 15 months ago. The prior motor coupling lasted maybe 18 years. I re-installed the washing machine back into it's cubby hole and tested it out. I didn't work properly. I removed it again into the hallway, removed the transmission, checked out my work and once again, re-assembled everything and moved the washing machine back into the cubby hole/closet. It still didn't work properly. I was very frustrated. I needed a night to think about this.

Went back the next morning to once again work on the washing machine. Thinking about this, I thought I needed to actually examine the motor coupling since I only looked at it the first two times I had the machine apart. The strange thing is that before I started working on this washing machine, the agitator would agitate and the basket would spin, The problem was that the clothes were coming out wet. Once I replaced the clutch, the agitator stopped agitating and the basket stopped spinning. I did hear a strange motor noise.

Once I removed the motor from the transmission, I saw what the problem was. The plastic part of the coupling that sits on the transmission was a little loose. The metal insert in the plastic piece that sits on the transmission shaft was slightly worn. There was no easy way to see this if one didn't take the motor off to look.

Installed a new motor coupler, buttoned everything back up, ran a test wash and everything is working again!

The key/BIG take away here, if you are going to remove the transmission from a washing machine to service an issue, remove the motor coupling to check it out. To be on the safe side, just change the motor coupling while the transmission is removed.

I appreciate the tips Jake! The next time I have this machine apart, I'll probably perform a more thorough service and replace the parts you recommended. I picked up a spanner wrench a few years ago in case I'd happen to need it for a future repair. From the videos I've watched, I'm a bit hesitant to tackle the drive block due the the trouble people have removing them from the years of use and corrosion.

A couple of final questions:

1. Is it OK to run a washing machine through it's various cycles without the water connections? For instance, I move the washing machine to a work area to swap/replace the parts. But the work area doesn't have any water access and I want to test the machine.

2. The clutch that I removed had some oil in the clutch basket. Since the gear case is below the clutch, what would cause that? Maybe this is the symptom of another problem?

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good job.

1. Is it OK to run a washing machine through it's various cycles without the water connections? For instance, I move the washing machine to a work area to swap/replace the parts. But the work area doesn't have any water access and I want to test the machine.

No, you would need the water connection.

2. The clutch that I removed had some oil in the clutch basket. Since the gear case is below the clutch, what would cause that? Maybe this is the symptom of another problem?

Most likely the transmission is starting to leak that oil you are seeing.

Jake