MAH5500BWW Maytag Neptune LR code

Famman

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Dec 23, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Washington state
Model Number
MAH5500BWW
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hello,

I have a Maytag Neptune washer model MAH5500BWW (serial #C6604917JE). A few weeks ago the machine stopped during the spin cycle and displayed LR code. I read and read until my head hurt and ordered a new motor control board, thinking this would fix the problem, which it didn't.

This is the board I ordered and what my original one looks like Motor Control Board WP22004473.

Now thinking that I need the motor conversion kit, I was told that the conversion kit was not for my machine and that motor #WP22003856 is the one for me.

To add a couple of things, I have looked and looked over my original motor board and the control board up on top of the machine and I have not found any sign of burned or damaged components, and all the wires and connections appear to be in good working order. I ohm'd the motor and found it to be within specs, so I don't believe it to be the problem. I also ended up removing and checking the water pump, but it is fine and the machine pumps out the water fairly quickly.

With either motor control board, the machine still gives the LR code when running diagnostics. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Jake

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Ok, according to your serial# of the washer, the first 2 digits are C6 so from the official Maytag parts list on page 24 here: http://www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Repair Part List - MAH5500BWW.pdf

Yours takes the motor control board thats listed for C3 and higher. So you were correct, yours takes this one: Motor Control Board WP22004473

So if you already replaced the motor control board with that one and still doesn't work and your motor ohm'd out within specs, then I'm as stumped as you are. I really don't know what else could be causing it.

Did you check your tech. data sheet to see if you can clear that LR error code? It could be as simple as just clearing that error code since you already replaced the motor control board.

This link is the repair manual for it, Your model starts at page#107: https://www.applianceblog.com/manuals...Neptunenew.pdf

Your model is the LED screen as seen on page#109

Page#123 says how to access service mode.

Page#126 says Clearing Diagnostic code list.

Page#30 says Tachometer circuit diagnostics, that also relates to the "LR- Locked Rotor" error code, it explains how to test the Tachometer, If clearing the error codes doesn't solve it.

Jake
 

Famman

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Messages
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Location
Washington state
Thanks for the reply Jake. In response to your question, I did fine the tech data sheet and have accessed and cleared the code (06) several times with no results. Page 30 is interesting, so I will tackle that next and get back to you with the results. Another question I had was regarding the Motor Control board that I replaced. How likely is it that the new board is defective as well, or that either one is defective if there are no obvious signs of burnt components? I'm thinking it would be highly unlikely, but wanted to get your take.

Thanks again.
 

Jake

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Yes, highly unlikely but have seen it happen on other control boards, not this board if I recall.

But I'd definitely do the tachometer circuit diagnostics first.

Jake
 

Famman

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Messages
4
Location
Washington state
Alright, Christmas is over and I am back at it. Here is what I have done so far:

First, I noted that my motor looks like this one Drive Motor WP22003856 and does not have a separate tachometer harness connection on the back of the motor, nor does it have the "picket fence" style wheel with sensor, so I am assuming there is a re-design somewhere here.

Second, I did check continuity for my JP4 harness, which checked out good; however, I did note that my JP4 harness has a red, yellow and blue wire (not white, blue and black) and a white wire next to those three that loops from one terminal to another terminal next to it. Also, my JP4 harness runs from the motor control board to the main board. Where I am stuck is not knowing which wires to check for VDC, since the ones on my JP4 harness are a different color than those listed on page 30 of the link you sent me.

Thanks again.
 

Jake

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Yes, you have the latest model of these Neptunes just before they discontinued them, so they may have change the wiring and I don't have your wiring diagram.

You may need to get a Maytag tech. to come out and see whats going on.

Jake
 

Famman

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Sorry to bother you with more questions, but I tried to perform the tachometer test and wanted to get your take on what I did and the results. First as I mentioned earlier, my JP4 harness runs from the motor control to the main board and has a blue, red and yellow wire. Using my wiring diagram, I found that the blue wire is motor control signal common, red is torque and yellow is motor control tach. Thinking that the blue is a ground, I set the black probe of my multimeter here and the red probe in the yellow slot. Then using the link you sent me, I performed the tachometer test by setting the machine in Delay Wash while measuring. If I did this correctly, I measured 13.11vdc at the terminals, which the test lists the condition as a bad motor.

So, my first question is whether you think the test was performed correctly? And second, I have ohm'd the motor a couple of times through the motor wiring harness (which has continuity) and those tests were within specs, so could my motor still be bad?

One other item to mention. During the Board Input Test, which is found on page #125 of the link you sent me, when I press the "quick" key, which has to do with the Accelerometer circuit, I don't get any reading on the LCD (test shows should either be "PA" (pass) or "FA" (fail) and the light on the "quick" button does not light up, but the other tests do.

Thanks again for all your help.
 

Jake

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Yup, sounds like you performed the test properly, so I'd say bad motor.

Call maytag, ask for a local parts distributor.
Bring in your receipt of original purchase of the Neptune washer and bring in the old motor just in case they want it, my case they told me to keep it.
btw: Tell them the truth, the motor will not even start-up ;

Now here is the good part!
Fill out the provided paperwork from that parts distributor and have them file it as WARRANTY REPAIR PART, no upfront cost to you...
"The paperwork is simple, your name, address,phone, & serial number & model number"

These Neptune washers have a 10 TEN-YEAR warranty on the drive motor.

Jake
 

HP_Sauce

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Messages
3
Location
California
I hope it's okay to update this thread with my own problem, but it seems to be very similar.

I've been getting the "Lr" error code repeatedly for a few weeks now though I can usually manage to get the load of laundry to finish. It's gotten very bad now to the point that I can't complete a load. I've done a number of diagnostic checks and most things seem okay. The motor control board has no damage and the tilt switches are all functioning. But, like Famman, I measure 13Vdc on the JP4 harness during a delay wash cycle. This leads me to believe it's a bad motor. The strange thing is that running a test cycle in service mode actually gets the tub to spin up to speed. During the cycle the right most dot comes on almost immediately which apparently signals a fault. And there are two diagnostic codes listed. One is 06 (locked rotor, as expected) and the other is 08 (water sensor level fault). Should I be concerned that the issue may be caused by the water sensor, or is the motor definitely bad if I measured 13Vdc?

EDIT: I should note that I have the same model as Famman above and bought it used a year ago, so I'm not exactly sure of its age. It seems like it has the newer motor control board though, as it does not match what's in the service manual (It is the same as is shown in this thread: FIXED Maytag Neptune Issues, SPIN ISSUES, LR CODE - Page 2 .
 
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Jake

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Hi HP Sauce,

So on page 31 where it says Tachometer wire checks:

White To Black (From Motor Control)
+ 13 VDC or <9 VDC Bad Motor


Your getting 13 VDC?

If so yes, then your motor is bad.

Please post the serial number of your Neptune, then I can tell you the Age and the Motor part number for your model.

FOR THE ERROR CODE 08: First try and clear the error codes, that error code 08 may be an old one.

Page#126/Section 2-14 says Clearing Diagnostic code list.

Jake
 

HP_Sauce

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Hi HP Sauce,

So on page 31 where it says Tachometer wire checks:

White To Black (From Motor Control)
+ 13 VDC or <9 VDC Bad Motor


Your getting 13 VDC?

If so yes, then your motor is bad.

Please post the serial number of your Neptune, then I can tell you the Age and the Motor part number for your model.

FOR THE ERROR CODE 08: First try and clear the error codes, that error code 08 may be an old one.

Page#126/Section 2-14 says Clearing Diagnostic code list.

Jake
I measured the motor tach the same as Famman did above, from blue to yellow, since my wires don't match what's described in the manual.

The SN is 71785030ZK. Though it looks to be a new motor board (not sure about the motor as well).

I'm fairly certain that 08 diagnostic code occurred during the same Quick Service Cycle as the 06 because it had a dot next to it along with the 06 code, which signifies they occurred in the last run. Also, when I did that service cycle a dot appeared almost immediately, signifying a failure had occurred before the motor was run.

Anyway, I cleared and reran the service cycle just to make sure, but now it passed with no issues. I ran a second time and it passed again. I did nothing to the washer between the cycle that failed with two codes yesterday and these cycles that passed. So I'm not sure what to do now. Maybe keep trying to use it and then if it fails again I can rediagnose and likely buy a new motor?
 

Jake

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Thanks, Your washer was made in May 2001.

Yes, also since your serial number starts with 71 then yours requires the motor conversion kit. I don't see a separate motor alone you can order.

Motor Conversion Kit 12002039


Jake
 

HP_Sauce

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Thanks for the response Jake. I haven't ordered anything yet as it did pass the quick service test, though I haven't run a load of laundry. I just did another test a week later and it is acting strange, in a whole new way. It gets stuck during the tumble portion of the test and will not move along (even if I try to force it using the up arrow button), but it does not display any errors.

Also, the motor and control board I have in my washer matches what you've linked above. So I guess this repair has already been performed on it once? Is it common to have to replace this motor/board multiple times?
 

Jake

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Yes, very common, that's why there was a nationwide recall on the Neptune several years ago which eventually lead to Maytag declaring bankruptcy and Whirlpool buying them out.

Since Whirlpool owns Maytag now the Quality on all Maytags has been much improved.

Jake
 

dfm910

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Oct 23, 2019
Messages
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Location
new hampshire
Sorry to bother you with more questions, but I tried to perform the tachometer test and wanted to get your take on what I did and the results. First as I mentioned earlier, my JP4 harness runs from the motor control to the main board and has a blue, red and yellow wire. Using my wiring diagram, I found that the blue wire is motor control signal common, red is torque and yellow is motor control tach. Thinking that the blue is a ground, I set the black probe of my multimeter here and the red probe in the yellow slot. Then using the link you sent me, I performed the tachometer test by setting the machine in Delay Wash while measuring. If I did this correctly, I measured 13.11vdc at the terminals, which the test lists the condition as a bad motor.

So, my first question is whether you think the test was performed correctly? And second, I have ohm'd the motor a couple of times through the motor wiring harness (which has continuity) and those tests were within specs, so could my motor still be bad?

One other item to mention. During the Board Input Test, which is found on page #125 of the link you sent me, when I press the "quick" key, which has to do with the Accelerometer circuit, I don't get any reading on the LCD (test shows should either be "PA" (pass) or "FA" (fail) and the light on the "quick" button does not light up, but the other tests do.

Thanks again for all your help.
just looking to see/verify that replacing motor was the fix for this, everything FAMMAN posted is what i have going on

thanks
 
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