FIXED MAH55FLBWW Maytag Neptune Issues, SPIN ISSUES, LR CODE

captainhappy

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Messages
9
Location
Cardiff By The Sea, CA
Model
MAH55FLBWW
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hello Everyone, and THANKS for a great forum!!!

I am having issues with my 9 year old Maytag MAH55FLBWW Washer. The first issue was it having soaking wet clothes in it when it was done, and I think there may have been a LR code in the display then, and if not then it showed up later. We finally opened it up and looked around and tried diagnosis using help we read here. Where we are now is this:

When we try a spin cycle (10 min) the spin starts and stops and starts and stops continuously every few seconds (There is about a 1 minute delay before it starts this start and stop cycle.) until it is at the end or close and the LR code comes up in the LED display. It does shake pretty bad so we took out a couple towels down to one towel and it shakes less... We probably do not have it totally level now so that we can access all sides of it so this may cause the shake, or I may suspect the two shocks in the back which visually look fine. (this may be a secondary problem, or may go away when the machine is back in place??? Am I correct in thinking this?)

We have checked the out of balance circuit and it is fine, and we have also eliminated this by disconnecting the switches and jumping the connector and it made no difference.

The Bearing for the Tub appears to be fine, there is no play on the actual stainless steel tub, and there is no sign of leakage in the rear.

We know that the unit does pump out water as we tested that and pumped out water.

We tested the motor and it is fine as best we can tell. (Measured voltages, and OHM'd the windings)

We checked the Nuetral wire connections, and them we test the black wires as well. What makes us wonder is the following:
When we try the Spin cycle it does its start stop start stop continuous cycle... when it starts to spin the voltage is close to 120V then the voltage cuts out and drops off then jumps up as it starts to spin again. We measure this from several locations coming from the top control board all the way around down to the Motor control board. (We may suspect the relays on the top control board??) (Any thoughts?) (We do not know if it is a Motor Control Board or Top Board issue???)
Another possible clue is that when we run the Spin test in the diags, it does spin at a slower speed, and then it progresses up the RPM steps fine, BUT the display does not show the speeds, it just stays at a constant 00. (We think this may be a clue as it has been mentioned here before, but never in our scenario with an answer of what it means if the speed is not shown in the display during the test.)

My manual does show that the motor does have a ten year warranty, and I wonder if anyone knows if they still send out a motor and motor control board as a combined kit part number still??? We may suspect the board and actually not the motor, but the motor has warranty and the board does not? :confused: Wink Wink...? I have read that the motor and control boards both have to be replaced and matched, does anyone know if this is true, and why by chance?

I hope that I have given enough information and not rambled too much! ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated as I have been without a washer for a while, and don't want to give up without trying whatever I can to economically save this washer if possible.

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided!!!

Mark
aka CaptainHappy
 

Jake

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captainhappy

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Location
Cardiff By The Sea, CA
Jake,

Thanks for the quick reply! :D

I had read that thread about "DO NOT PAY..." and someone posted an attachment at the end that supposedly said that Maytag wouldn't pay for a control board, they posted: "Maytag Service will not pay labor or parts claims for the kit on models that don't require the kit." My model was not listed in that attachment as they listed series 88 (I do not know how to figure out what series my washer is?) or later, and a few models with MAH5500... in the part number, but mine is close MAH55FL... not sure what the difference is? I am hoping that my model washer requires the motor and control board as they are "mated" in a kit??? I just want to make sure nothing is screwed up when I call them as I really need it to be covered by warranty. (I had an extended warranty that I paid for but it has long since expired, it would be nice to get warranty coverage here!)

Should I just tell them that I had a handyman check out the washer because of the LR code and he said I needed the conversion kit 12002039 (that you mentioned) because the motor is bad and leave it at that? I tried to look up local (to me) service centers online and could not find anything, am I stuck just calling the toll free number?

I just need to know how to phrase it to make sure that they cover the warranty as they should? (I think the Motor is possibly ok, but one of the control boards is actually bad, do you agree? Does the voltage drop mean anything as it cycles on and off again and again mean anything?) (Does the spin test working, but not displaying the speed in the display mean anything?)

I am sure that you can see my email if you need to contact me through that if it is easier?

Thanks,

Mark
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Ok Mark, The first 2 numbers of your serial number of your washer tells you what series yours is.

Post your serial number here.

Jake
 

captainhappy

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Messages
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Location
Cardiff By The Sea, CA
Ok Mark, The first 2 numbers of your serial number of your washer tells you what series yours is.

Post your serial number here.

Jake
Jake,

Looks like I have a series 10 since the s/n starts with 10... :)

I will contact Maytag to request the kit, and let you guys know later what the results are when I get the replacement parts in.

Thanks,

Mark
 

Jake

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Ok Mark, sounds good, yes keep us posted.:)

Jake
 

captainhappy

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Location
Cardiff By The Sea, CA
Motor Conversion Kit Came in!

Ok, I got the motor and motor control board, part number 12002039 under warranty from Maytag!!!:D I received it and finally got to installing it today...

I am attaching (Hopefully as it is my first time trying attachments!) the instructions that I scanned here for anyone who may want them, and to refer to them in a question for Jake in my next post.

Mark
 

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captainhappy

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Question on new wiring

Jake,

I got the kit installed, but I have a wiring question as my existing wiring doesn't match what they refer to in the instructions attached in my previous post. I am attaching pictures of my existing wiring harness for the old Motor Control Board, the AC Line Filter that is added to the New Motor Control Board setup, and Finally the New Control Board Wiring for reference. There are no issues with the wiring connections for the JP4 Connection, or the Motor Harness Connection.

First the instructions at the start say "The AC line filter in the kit, is required for earlier washers to prevent malfunction of the control board in the console... Failure to comply may result in premature failure of other components in the washer."

This filter (P/N: F 11.126/751-8Y3) is new for the MCB assembly, and my machine actually does have a filter of the same exact specs and similar part number (P/N: F 11.126/751-8Y1) at the incoming AC connection in the top of the machine near the Upper Control Board. Do they now intend for my machine to have both filters, I assume it is harmless, and judging from the above statement it is required??? The reason that I am asking about this is because my existing wiring will not plug in to the new wiring harnessing at the MCB. (See PICS) The instructions on page 2, step 18 say to connect the ground wire from the main wiring harness to the upper right terminal on the MCB.... My problem is that the ground wire is not free, it is integrated in the existing wiring harness for the MCB. Additionally, The instructions on page 2, step 19 say to connect the blue 2 terminal connector from the main wiring harness to the white connector from the AC line filter on the new MCB.... My problem is that there is no BLUE connector from the main wiring harness anywhere in the washer, again I think the appropriate wires (white and black) are integrated in the existing wiring harness for the MCB. (Just as a side note... If I disconnect the jumper wire connector (Blue and Red Wires) from the filter to the MCB, I would be able to plug the existing power and ground connector to the MCB just like the old one was connected. This would take the new filter out of the picture, so I assume that is not desired by Maytag.)

I actually think that I may have to rewire things a bit myself, but I wanted to ask you first :confused: to make sure that I should do this to match their wiring layout in the above posted instruction sheet. To do this I think that I will have to somehow extract the white, black, and green wires with spade lug terminals in the white connector from my existing wiring harness for the MCB. Is there an easy way to remove these white, black, and green wires with spade lug terminals from white connector without destroying the connector housing??? If I remove these wires, will I then be able to just plug the spade lug terminals to the appropriate connections without a mating connector housing??? (Black and White from my existing wiring harness to the NEW B&W Jumper wire (AC Wire Harness) into the line filter, and the Green to the upper right terminal on the MCB.) Is doing that Kosher?? I really hope that I won't have to search for an appropriate mating connector! I just want to ask before I do anything or power it up for testing. It sucks that they did not provide the exact matching connectors with this kit!!!

Thanks again :) in advance for any help that you can provide! I am hoping that this will get me back to washing happily again!!!

Regards,

Mark
 

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Jake

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I need to see a photo of your original motor board.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok Mark, I needed to see it still in the machine, but anyway, it looks way different than I've seen before. No one has worked on this machine before?

I'm not sure what to make of this, I'd really need to come out to your house and start over and see if we can go step by step slowly through the instructions that are given, thats the only way I've been able to do this job myself, I didn't do enough of these on a daily or weekly basis to memorize the process and without being there at the machine with you I can't guide you just typing from the forum.

Jake
 

captainhappy

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Location
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Jake,

It has never been worked on that I can remember, and if it was it would have been Maytag as I had an extended warranty originally.

The pictures I gave you of the original Motor Control Board were out of it's plastic housing, so that may have confused things.

I am attaching a few more pics for you... In these the new MCB is already in the machine in the same spot that the old MCB came out of for placement reference. One picture is of the old MCB in its housing, but out of the machine. Another picture is of the old MCB with the existing wire harnesses plugged in as they were originally, but out of the machine with the new MCB installed in the machine in the background.

The final picture is of the power plug to the old MCB. This is the connector that I was asking you about pulling the spade lug terminals out of to plug into the appropriate connection on the new MCB and line filter. I got part of this connector open, but I am still not able to get the wires and their spade lug terminals out of the connector. Is there a trick to removing them? If I can do this I then could route all of the wires to match the instructions.

Not sure of your thoughts on this, and I hope the new pictures clear things up...

Thanks,

Mark
 

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Jake

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I've never had to take the wire lugs out of the connectors, so you lost me there.

Start at the beginning at step 1 and slowly follow the instructions and it will guide you exactly how to do it.

Jake
 

captainhappy

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Jake,

I made it all the way to step 18 with no problems at all... The problem with step 18 and 19 are that the instructions are talking about wiring that does not exist in my machine in the manner that they describe. The existing MCB power connector in the machine's main wire harness is a MOLEX MX-IT 5 position connector with White, Black, Green, and two empty connections. (This will mate with the power connector on the new and old MCB, but on the new MCB this will bypass the AC Filter that they have added, so that would not be good I assume. If I take the wire lugs out of this connector they will then be able to mate with the actual terminals in the instructions for the new MCB for power and ground connections. The wire harness for the new MCB consists of jumper wire harnesses between the MCB and the new AC filter. The wire connection for the power into the filter is an AMP 3 position connector with a White, Back, and an empty connection. The problem is you can't connect a Molex 5 pin connector to an AMP 3 pin recepticle connector, hence my idea to remove the terminal lugs from the Molex connector on the machine side so that I can directly connect the terminals without a housing to conform with the new MCB wiring scheme.

I have looked up the molex connector and think that I will be able to remove the terminals from it as I have studied the Molex Connector drawings to see how they retain the terminals. I think I will be able to do it without their "special" extraction tool.


I am hoping that this clears up what I am planning to do, please refer to the attached pictures of the dis-similar connectors and "edited" figure 4 from the instructions.

Natuarally, once I have done this I will post a clear wire connection picture for the benefit of others who read this thread in the future and may encounter the same issue.

Regards,

Mark
 

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Jake

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Ok, I think I see what your saying now.

Lets go back to what you said:

First the instructions at the start say "The AC line filter in the kit, is required for earlier washers to prevent malfunction of the control board in the console... Failure to comply may result in premature failure of other components in the washer."

This filter (P/N: F 11.126/751-8Y3) is new for the MCB assembly, and my machine actually does have a filter of the same exact specs and similar part number (P/N: F 11.126/751-8Y1) at the incoming AC connection in the top of the machine near the Upper Control Board. Do they now intend for my machine to have both filters, I assume it is harmless, and judging from the above statement it is required??? The reason that I am asking about this is because my existing wiring will not plug in to the new wiring harnessing at the MCB. (See PICS) The instructions on page 2, step 18 say to connect the ground wire from the main wiring harness to the upper right terminal on the MCB.... My problem is that the ground wire is not free, it is integrated in the existing wiring harness for the MCB. Additionally, The instructions on page 2, step 19 say to connect the blue 2 terminal connector from the main wiring harness to the white connector from the AC line filter on the new MCB.... My problem is that there is no BLUE connector from the main wiring harness anywhere in the washer, again I think the appropriate wires (white and black) are integrated in the existing wiring harness for the MCB. (Just as a side note... If I disconnect the jumper wire connector (Blue and Red Wires) from the filter to the MCB, I would be able to plug the existing power and ground connector to the MCB just like the old one was connected. This would take the new filter out of the picture, so I assume that is not desired by Maytag.)
This is something I never ran into on any that I've changed, but you do have a later model edition of the Maytag Neptune, so its safe to say Maytag only required this AC line filter connection at the motor control board if your orginal had it there as well.

So since yours is up in the top of the machine near the main control board, then don't worry about the AC line filter at the motor control board.

Because you shouldn't need to remove the terminal lugs from the plastic connectors or the instructions would say to do that, see what I mean?

Jake
 

captainhappy

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Success!!!!!!

:D:D:D:D:D

I am happy to report that I have a working washer again!!! Well at least a test spin scyle worked flawlessly! I have not tried actually washing a load of clothes as I am taking this opportunity of having the washer out to tile the laundry area since the machines have been out of there during the breakdown.

I did want to come back and report my success and say thanks for the help that I got from everyone here, especially Jake. I also wanted to follow up with two final pictures to document the end steps I had to take just in case some poor soul finds themselves in my same position, and I did not want to leave anything hanging...

The first picture is basically to show the terminals after I extracted them from the original MCB Power Connector. I first pried open the top retention flap on the connector housing as you have seen in previous pictures, then I used a small flat blade jewelers screwdriver to bend the retention tab in on the terminal as I pulled it out of the connector housing. This did take a little force and care. After that I slid heat shrink tubing over all of the terminal connections and installed them temporarily for the picture so you could see how the are installed. After the picture I pulled the terminals out and shrunk the tubing on the terminals to prevent having any bare exposed wires or connections. After letting them cool I put them onto their appropriate connections as per the instructions. This way I am using the filter that they have installed on the new MCB enclosure as the instructions were very specific as to its importance and I did not want to risk damaging anything.

The second picture shows the New MCB Enclosure fully installed and wired in the base of the machine.

BTW, I checked into it, and it is fine to have two AC filters in the machine.

I hope that this may help someone in the future!!! I wanted to try to give back a little in appreciation of the help that I got here!

Mark
 

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Jake

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Good job Mark.:)

Its just odd that I never ran into this issue where I had to do that on any of mine I've changed and no other members here have mentioned that.

Jake
 

bbowman

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thread is 7 years old but it is a lifesaver. My 14 year old Neptune MAH5500BWW, washer, ever so reliable, started throwing frequent LR codes. I called a local appliance parts shop and they confirmed that my generation Neptune washer is known for being extremely reliable with a solid motor and that the problem is most likely with the MCB. The exact MCB is discontinued so I had to order the motor/MCB conversion kit from repairclinic.com. Without the details and pictures from this thread I would not have known to take apart the wiring harness, remove the wires, and connect them to the harness included with the new MCB. big thanks to CaptainHappy for the details and pictures! my washer is running like new once again!
 
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