• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Maytag 3000 front load slow/medium spin speed only. YMHWE301YW00

The heat sink was rivetted to the board. I drilled out the rivets and replaced with machine screws. I can see one of the brass rivets in your picture.

Also, the chips are screwed to the heatsink. There's access holes in the board to reach the screws.
 
The heat sink was rivetted to the board. I drilled out the rivets and replaced with machine screws. I can see one of the brass rivets in your picture.

Also, the chips are screwed to the heatsink. There's access holes in the board to reach the screws.
Yup. Thanks for confirming. Will drill them out
 
Unfortunately.. after the replacement of the chip... it worked for about 10 minutes and during the slow turning at the beginning of cycle I saw spark near motor and it stopped... it looked perfect before that.

I reopened MCU and seems to be some light black burning residue . Not sure which component. See picture. Nothing on back.

I didn't change bridge. So not sure if I should have. Now I am back to not knowing what to do next :(

Motor still showing correct resistance.

Not worth changing the chip again unless I know what else is wrong and why it did that... any ideas?

I don't know if now the chip is ok? Is it the big capacitor? No idea.
 

Attachments

  • 20230912_223815.jpg
    20230912_223815.jpg
    597.1 KB · Views: 19
Actually I just noticed.. see pic.

I guess salvaging the board is now not an option.... it's becoming more difficult.

I guess time to look for an MCU or the whole motor assembly...
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230912_224535_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20230912_224535_Gallery.jpg
    181.9 KB · Views: 18
Looks like evidence of arcing at pin 21 in your first picture. According to the datasheet, that's one of the 3-phase outputs. Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like you used way too much thermal paste. It apparently overflowed and made contact with the pins of the chip -- possibly causing the arcing. Another possible suspect is tiny bits of solder left behind during the replacement. I can't see any in the photo.

The SMD resistor at R74 acted as a fuse. It looks like it was a 1 ohm. I doubt the large capacitor was affected. When they go, the top usually splits at the scribed lines. That's what the lines are for.

Personally, I would clean all the excess paste off while looking very carefully to see if the arcing was between two pins or a pin and a trace or what. Look for physical damage to the chip that would indicate internal damage. Replace R74 (that's going to be fun -- get yourself a magnifying visor!). If you are willing to risk another $20 on this, replace the motor controller chip again. Reinstall the heatsink, but just use a couple of drops on the chip. LESS IS MORE! You want to end up with the thinnest possible layer between the chip and the heatsink; it's just supposed to fill in microscopic scratches and exclude air. It's actually a barrier to thermal conductance -- just not as much of an insulator as air. And it's certainly not supposed to be so thick it squeezes out onto the chip pins.

Then hold your breath and try again. It is possible that R74 blew fast enough to protect the rest of the components. The motor controller chip has some internal diode shunts that may have protected it. Hard to say what might have happened elsewhere, such as the microcontroller chip, but if the arc was simply between the output phases then you might get lucky on this.
 
Looks like evidence of arcing at pin 21 in your first picture. According to the datasheet, that's one of the 3-phase outputs. Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like you used way too much thermal paste. It apparently overflowed and made contact with the pins of the chip -- possibly causing the arcing. Another possible suspect is tiny bits of solder left behind during the replacement. I can't see any in the photo.

The SMD resistor at R74 acted as a fuse. It looks like it was a 1 ohm. I doubt the large capacitor was affected. When they go, the top usually splits at the scribed lines. That's what the lines are for.

Personally, I would clean all the excess paste off while looking very carefully to see if the arcing was between two pins or a pin and a trace or what. Look for physical damage to the chip that would indicate internal damage. Replace R74 (that's going to be fun -- get yourself a magnifying visor!). If you are willing to risk another $20 on this, replace the motor controller chip again. Reinstall the heatsink, but just use a couple of drops on the chip. LESS IS MORE! You want to end up with the thinnest possible layer between the chip and the heatsink; it's just supposed to fill in microscopic scratches and exclude air. It's actually a barrier to thermal conductance -- just not as much of an insulator as air. And it's certainly not supposed to be so thick it squeezes out onto the chip pins.

Then hold your breath and try again. It is possible that R74 blew fast enough to protect the rest of the components. The motor controller chip has some internal diode shunts that may have protected it. Hard to say what might have happened elsewhere, such as the microcontroller chip, but if the arc was simply between the output phases then you might get lucky on this.
Thanks :)

This has been a good experience no matter that :) Thank you.

Yes when I opened it up, I did notice the extra paste. I thought it might be an issue but I was not sure if it does conduct any electricity. Maybe it does...

Will see if I will venture into this again :) will need to find the resistor prob same place as I got the chip (digikey or amazon if they have a pack for free prime delivery).

get yourself a magnifying visor!

I did lol :) coudln't have done it with out it...

Thank you.
 
If you put multimeter to most thermal pastes, they probably show infinite resistance. But the multimeter has -- at best -- a 9v battery. The outputs on that chip are rated something like 600V. That kind of voltage can push through the paste, which is laden with metal particals.
 
It is very difficult to replace the small and register specially that there is also some kind of a later on top. I may leave it for later to try.

But my wife is getting impatient and I am getting a push to get a new washer now... so I found a motor and MCU on eBay and got it from Toronto.

I thought this would be it!!! But to my surprise it seems the issue is still present.

- either what I got which is used had the same problem anyways
OR
there is something else going on.

- I replaced the main ccu
- I replaces the pressure sensor
- I replaced the water pump
- now I replaced the motor and MCU

Nothing left!! Except maybe a problem with drum making it heavy?

I don't know any more. I like a challenge and I hate giving up but it's getting there...

Any more ideas please let me know..

To summarise the problem is that when it's time to spin fast, I can hear pump for a long time but it doesn't spin. Then it would go to next cycle (i.e wash to rinse) or just spin but doesn't go fast.

I find that if it's just there pulling water but not spinning if I pause and resume then it might spin again and sometimes go fast

Thx
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Support Our Site

If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation, please consider making a donation.

Back
Top