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FIXED Maytag A612 washer agitates, drains, but won't spin


Premium Member
May 31, 2016
Model Number
Hi Jake (or other service technicians viewing):

I hope this message finds you well!

You helped me a couple of months ago with fixing a Maytag dryer over at
FIXED Maytag Auto Dry gets stuck, won't advance. The dryer is still working fine, but now, it's the Maytag washer that needs some help! I would really appreciate any guidance on the problem I'm having, described below, and what tools/parts I will need to order to do the repair.

The washer is a Maytag A612, an older, but still very good quality machine. I bought it reconditioned, and it has served me well for a number of years now. They don't make them like they used to, and I really want to fix the washer, as they say these older units are built to last (pretty much forever!), just with some service (e.g., belt replacement) now and then. I've attached some pictures of the unit.

I have also enclosed a repair part list for the model I found online.

Problem: A couple of days ago, the washer was making a screeching noise and stopped agitating during the wash/agitation cycle. It smelled like something (maybe the belts) were burning. Pushing in the timer knob and pulling it out again solved this problem temporarily, and got the washer agitating again, for a while.

Right now, the washer will agitate fine. The problem now is that the washer drains, but does not spin out during the drain process, leaving the clothes sopping wet. I took off the front panel and saw that the transmission (large silver part) does not turn or budge during the spin cycle, when I believe it should be turning. I can't move it by hand either. (Note: I tried opening the transmission to see inside by removing the bolts, but one bolt is currently stuck; I sprayed some PB blaster on the stuck bolt to try to remove it, but no luck getting it off, yet.)

I also tried turning the pulley wheel at the bottom of the machine, where the transmission belt goes on (transmission drive pulley). It turns fine counterclockwise, but does not turn at all clockwise.

My first instinct was that the washer had broken or worn belts. I checked the belts for any damage, found none, and replaced both belts anyway (the transmission and pump belts). I believe I installed them correctly, with the proper amount of tension on each pulley.

Doing some online research pointed me to the idea that there might be a stuck piece of clothing between the black tub and the inner, white wash basket. I was only able to look between the two baskets by eyesight with a flashlight, and saw nothing. I can't find a disassembly tutorial video for this exact model, A612, but from another Maytag washer video, to look for stuck clothing, I understand I would need to remove the blue agitator and then use a spanner wrench special tool underneath it to hammer out the spanner nut. I just ordered the spanner wrench tool from Repair Clinic. What tool do I need to remove the screw on the blue, plastic agitator, though? Is it a hex head or a Phillips head or what (see picture attached)?

My other research pointed me to it being a possibly seized tub bearing assembly. If this is the case, can you point me to the right parts and tutorial to fix that? Hopefully (fingers crossed), it is not too expensive or difficult of a repair job. I would say my mechanical skills are intermediate. My other worry is that the entire transmission might need to be replaced, which looks to be a real pain in the rear… Does the transmission ever require lubrication? Might that be causing it to stick?

I really appreciate your help again. Thanks in advance!




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Let me ask you this, when you had the belts off and your manually turned the transmission pulley by hand, you mentioned it turned fine one way, but not the other way. When it was turning fine that one way was the agitator moving back and forth as you were turning the transmission pulley? Then when you turned it the other way the transmission pulley would not turn or the transmission would not turn?

Does the motor pulley and pump pulley turn fine both ways?

The agitator screw is a 1/4" nut, so use your 1/4" nut-driver to remove it.:) Or 1/4" socket if using a socket wrench.:)

It sounds like your tub bearing is out, very common for this model. But do remove the inner tub first to check for something like a cloth caught in between the inner and outer tub, I've seen that before, and that would cause the inner tub and transmission not to turn.

Its a big all day job to do, so allow yourself plenty of time.:)

You will need to order a spanner wrench to remove the inner tub: Pro TJ90TB123A Spanner Wrench

Here's the tub bearing for your model you can order here:
6-2040130 Tub Bearing Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com

Whenever you change the tub bearing you ALWAYS have to change the tub mounting stem seal kit assembly.

Here's the mounting stem seal kit assembly for your model you can order here:
6-2095720 Mounting Stem Repair Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com

Watch this video to replace these parts:

Let us know how it goes!

Hi Jake,

Thanks for your reply and help! :biggrin:

I've enclosed a video below showing the washer. Let me know if you have any trouble opening/viewing it. I hope it helps answer your questions and gives you a good visual of what's going on:

The agitator moves back and forth when I turn the transmission pulley wheel to the left. When I turn the transmission pulley wheel to the right, the wheel turns a couple of times until it (the wheel) gets stuck.

With the belts off, the motor pulley rotates fine. The pump pulley rotates fine as well, but is a little stiff. For a near future repair (one thing at a time for now!), is this pump pulley wheel replaceable, and what tools do I need to take it off?

Lastly, I removed the blue agitator and bought a spanner wrench tool to remove the spanner nut(s). The spanner nut underneath the agitator won't budge at all! It looks pretty rusted/bonded on tight. There is a lot of corrosion. Following the video, I hammered the spanner nut clockwise; is clockwise the correct direction for this Maytag unit?

I sprayed a lot of WD-40 and PB Blaster on the spanner nut last night, and still had no luck removing it today (Friday), 24 hours later. So I sprayed again today using both lubricants. I also used a hair dryer to try and heat up the spanner nut first; not sure if a hair dryer gets it hot enough, and don't have anything else (i.e., torches) laying around the house... also might not be safe to use a torch after having applied the WD-40 + PB Blaster (if flammable). Is my only option chiseling it off?

Awaiting your reply!

Thanks so much,

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Hi again, Jake,

A quick update:

I still can't get the spanner nut off today, after respraying with the two penetrants. I hammered it in both directions, clockwise and counterclockwise. The world's strongest man couldn't remove that thing... :wall:

I saw on another thread a similar issue to mine (washer fills, drains, but won't spin), and the poster had suggested turning the white wash basket by hand to give it a boost during the spin cycle. I tried doing so today, after also removing the ring-shaped silver seal at the top of the washer that holds/secures the inner and outer tubs together, which keeps the water from splashing out. When I lift up at the top (the cap covering the inner and outer tubs), the transmission and wash basket both turn now during the spin cycle, albeit with a lot of stiffness and some scraping noise. Lifting up helps the scraping noise (but then water goes everywhere), and the wash basket has intermittent stopping and going. Maybe loosening the metal seal helped the or the penetrants sprayed onto the spanner nut loosened some rust/corrosion a little at the bearing part.

I also noticed the motor hardly moving back and forth. I see that that has something to do with springs and wheel glides... I bought new springs, but I don't see replacements for the wheels; I'll try cleaning them when I get the other stuff working first. Might the motor be contributing to the issue?


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One more question comes to mind, Jake: Instead of buying a new $70 pump, would you advise putting graphite on the pump pulley shaft, like the kind you use for the Cub Scouts Pinewood Derby/racing car wheels, to make the cars go faster? Or any other lubricants?

P.S. I recall graphite from a funny experience with it in Cub Scouts from my youth! An older gentleman (one of the parents) had a bottle of graphite on him, and he was offering to help the other parents and the scouts' cars glide faster for an annual derby competition. My parents and I were gracious when he offered to put graphite on my pine car, and he was a bit nervous/distracted when doing my car. The whole bottle of graphite exploded all over his shirt and the wooden car I designed! Guess who got 1st place for the derby? ;-)
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Ok, I saw your video, you did a good job making it!

Do you see the video I posted in my last post above? It shows what direction that TUB NUT turns to come off, it turns clockwise to come off, use a rubber mallet like in the video, use a lot of force too.:)

Your water pump is fine, all the older Maytags had pump pulleys that were a little stiff, so don't worry about that.

Have you soaked that TUB NUT in Liquid Wrench overnight and spray it liberally?

Hi Jake,

Glad you liked the video! :)

Yes, I saw the instructional video and hammered the nut really tough in the correct clockwise direction. I still couldn't get it off. I will have to order a can of Liquid Wrench, but it might take a couple of days for delivery.

So, do you think that Liquid Wrench is stronger/better at taking off stuck bolts/nuts, as compared to PB Blaster and WD-40? Is that what the pros use?

Also, for the past two days now, I've had the tub filled halfway with hot water, a gallon of vinegar, and a half a carton of salt. Not an exact science here, but I am thinking that might loosen some of the rust a bit (and also give the added bonus of cleaning the washer).

The Liquid Wrench is worth a try, and I will definitely try using it. But for Plan B, I did go out and purchase a cold chisel just in case the nut remains stuck. If I go that route (cold chisel), do I crack the nut in one place, two places, or all over the place?

I am glad for your reassurance that the stiff pump pulley is normal for these older Maytags. May I ask, though, if it is safe to also spray some Liquid Wrench oil around the pump pulley wheel? Would graphite be a good idea? I picked up graphite from the hardware store yesterday as well.

Thanks, Jake!


Yes, I had a really tough one that I could NOT remove, about 20 years ago when I worked at Montgomery Ward Service Dept., in Tucson, Arizona and sprayed it liberally with Liquid Wrench, and let it sit overnight and went back to the customers house and I got it off.:)

I tried all those others you mentioned and they didn't work.

Hi Jake,

OK, update time. I had to order it online the Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. I also ordered Liquid Wrench Lubricating Oil.

The Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil didn't work. The spanner nut was so stuck on there that there was nowhere for the penetrant to soak into the nut threads. I tried a candle and flame (hot wax) and had no luck with that either.

So I bought a cold chisel and carefully chiseled off the spanner nut in two. I followed the remainder of the instructional video, took out the wash basket, took out the black tub, and all three bolts. I have everything loose right now.


I cleaned some rust spots off the black outer tub with a wire brush. I put Rustoleum appliance touch-up paint on the rust spots that concerned me. Hopefully that helps stop and delay future rust.

I caused a small crack in the water level pressure switch hose, as the clamp was very hard to remove with the dollar store pliers I was using (all that I had available). Damn! So I went and took my soldering iron and melted it back together as best as I could, and also used super glue. I couldn't find that part available (water level pressure switch), if it needs to be replaced, on either Appliance Part Pros or on RepairClinic. Is it still being sold?

I noticed that the silver sleeve bearing and black rubber seals actually looked to be in pretty good condition! Maybe there was a little friction for the silver sleeve bearing. I sprayed under the sleeve bearing with the Liquid Wrench Lubricating Oil, but I want to use the correct grease; see question #1 below.

I do intend to replace the mounting stem and the tub bearing to see if that does anything (still in progress, pending your answers to some additional questions below, while I still have the machine apart). But from my observation, the most friction/sticking of the transmission seems to be at the other, bottom end of the transmission, where it interacts with the transmission pulley.

I also noticed a ~0.5 cm small chip in the porcelain white wash basket underneath the spanner nut, due to prolonged rust. Is there any way to bond/patch that area that you would recommend? Weld it? Some kind of bonding cement or water proof adhesive?

Recap - Questions

1.) What type of bearing grease should I buy to lubricate the tub bearing shaft? Is it OK if I also put this grease on the bottom shaft of the transmission as well, after removing the pulley wheel?

2.) Is there any replacement available for the water level pressure switch rubber hose? Or any recommendations/techniques/hacks on repairing a cracked hose, in addition to my melting it with a soldering iron?

3.) Any recommendations on repairing a chip in the porcelain white wash basket due to rust? Bonding cement? Weld?

4.) Does the inside of the transmission with the gears ever need to be re-oiled, if it was manufactured in '86? What type of oil do I use if so, and how much oil (cups) do I put in?

Thanks so much, Jake. I will eagerly await your response to get this thing up and running again (fingers crossed!). :)

Very Respectfully,

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Good job, I was going to suggest using the hammer and chisel method if Liquid Wrench didn't work!

1. No grease needed on either.

2. Here's the pressure switch air hose for your model you can order:
WP22001619 Tube-Air

3. This should work: Touch-Up Paint 1005

4. No, you never need to do anything inside the Tranny.:)

Hi Jake,

10-4! I will order both of those items, and I have one final question that I forgot to add to my previous post:

One of the three bolts that holds the black outer tub up has a slightly damaged rubber o-ring. The other two are fine. I looked on both Appliance Part Pros and RepairClinic to find this rubber washer part. This is for the bolt shown at the 6:09 mark in the repair video you sent in post #2 on the first page of the thread. I only see the bolt without the o-ring. Can you find it? It is a flat rubber washer.

Thanks again!


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Yes, just use a flat rubber washer that you can get at any hardware store in your area.:)

Take that bolt to your hardware store and they will have one there for you to match up with the old one.

Will do! It may take a couple of days for that porcelain repair kit and other parts to arrive (and for the porcelain to dry/cure/bond), and I will post an update in a few days. :)

Take care and speak soon!

Sounds good jburger.:)

Hi Jake,

Here is a follow up. Some new problems have cropped up that I'd really appreciate your help with again!

I received the new air pressure hose and installed it fine. I fixed the porcelain rusted chip in the wash basket with the repair kit you suggested, and the basket looks good. :)

I put in all new parts: the tub bearing kit and the mounting stem repair kit. I put in the new spanner nut. I followed all instructions to the letter, making sure everything was hammered tightly, and I let the washer run for three minutes on spin.

I also put in new springs and glides on the motor mounting plate. It was interesting: the new kit came with SQUARE glides, but my original ones were ROUND. Is that OK? The motor is getting very hot to the touch--I accidentally touched it with the back of my finger and noticed. Is the motor supposed to be so hot?

When it came time to put the agitator screw with the tiny black washer/o-ring in the agitator, I used a socket wrench and OVER TORQUED the screw. The hex head and a tiny segment attached to the hex head broke off. :-( Now how the hell do I get the remnant, which is tightly secured to the agitator shaft, and inaccessible (i.e., below the surface) out? I put in some hot glue from a glue gun to simulate the rubber washer/o-ring as a temporary fix, so water doesn't corrode the shaft. I researched, and this site is what I came up with:

Removing Frozen or Broken Fasteners | Metal Arts Press

Any tools you would recommend, in your professional experience, to get that stuck, broken bolt out so I can fix it properly, or do I need a diamond drill bit or something? Has something like this ever happened to you? :wall:

Now, the transmission spins (yay!) but I believe the original issue of wash basket not spinning was related to the TOP COVER of the unit that holds the water inside the unit. When I lifted up on the top cover after removing the outer metal ring holding it in place, the basket spun fine, even before doing the mounting stem and tub bearing repairs (the old ones looked in pretty good condition, actually), and when I put the top cover down all the way, there were metal scraping sounds and the inside basket didn't turn, unless I helped it along with my hand by manually pushing it. So now, I have the top cover secured with the rubber gasket and the metal ring a little higher than it has been for many years and there are no scraping sounds.

BUT! The universe has conspired against me, and doesn't want me to do my laundry, and now two other problems have cropped up:

1. There are two speeds for the A612 washer: Fast and Gentle. When the washer is filled to the top (highest water level) and goes into the spin cycle, the water just swirls in place for three seconds until it OVERFLOWS the washer top cover, and WILL NOT DRAIN. Water is getting all over the floor when it overflows. I notice with the front plate off and the control panel lifted up, for some reason, the air gap (injector assembly?) IS FILLING UP WITH WATER when entering the spin cycle. What the heck did I do wrong here? No hoses appear to be kinked. I notice, however, that the water appears to drain fine on the GENTLE speed cycle. Is this a siphoning issue?

Note: Because the inside hose clamps were rusted, I bought and put 3 new metal clamps on the two drain pump hoses as follows: one where the dirty water drains from the tub; and a second and a third clamp on the hoses going to and from the white plastic drain pump. I tightened them down pretty hard. Am I supposed to tighten them so hard? I figure I don't want water to leak, but from something I read online, maybe they are supposed to be looser? An air pressure issue or something?

2. I bypassed the lid switch for my unit several years ago with electrical tape at two wires in the control panel. That way, I can run the washer with the lid up and see everything agitating, add detergent, more clothes, etc., while the unit is in the wash cycle. My question is does the lid switch metal tab go in front of the indentation on the top cover, or behind it? Does it even matter, since I bypassed it (but I want to put the machine together properly)? I can take a picture of the parts if you need clarification. Also, I notice that the lid switch no longer "clicks" when I place down and open the top washer door. What did I mess up here? Oh lordy.

Question Recap

1. Square glides instead of circle OK on the motor plate?

2. Is motor supposed to get very hot to the touch?

3. What to do about broken agitator bolt? Drill, punch, weld something to it? Don't worry about it? (It is secure in there, after all... but good luck doing future repairs with a broken bolt!)

4. How to get unit to drain, instead of just swirling and overflowing, on the fast speed cycle. Water only drains a trickle on the fast speed cycle. The air gap plastic piece is filling up with water on spin. What is the issue here?

5. How to properly position lid switch tab--put it in front of, or behind the cover indentation?

Thank you!!!
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1. Yes

2. Warm to Hot is normal. But if its extremely hot, then its likely starting to wear out.

3. I don't remember ever breaking that off before, I always make them snug and not tight, but I wouldn't worry about that at this point.

4. By-Pass that Air Gap.:)

5. I need to see a photo of what your talking about.

OK, I've attached five photos. Two are of the lid switch "arm" (white handle) and tub cover tab. The other three pictures are of the air gap and black water inlet hose.

Note: I painted over the cover tab in white and the lid switch (both were rusty), and the paint has scratched off a bit while trying to figure out whether the lid switch arm goes in front of or behind the cover tab, so don't be confused by the paint scratches as to where it was positioned originally.

Why is water circling the tub, not draining, and overflowing now on the fast spin cycle? Anything you can think of to check? I tried taking out and repositioning the drain hose in its stand pipe (perhaps some kind of siphon effect?), and also tried putting the drain hose on the ledge of the nearby laundry tub, and only notice a trickle draining on the fast cycle for some reason.

For bypassing the air gap, do I put a larger section of hose OVER the two ends with two clamps on either end, or do I buy a plumbing piece that fits INSIDE the two fittings? Do you know off hand what size of tubing would work?

Thanks, Jake!


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Hi Jake,

An update: I figured the washer won't drain and water swirling the tub/overflowing problem could have been a pump belt or transmission drive belt issue.

I don't know if I mentioned this before, but I installed two new OEM Maytag belts on the washer (ordered from Repair Clinic). I tried taking them both off, and putting them both on again, following the instructional videos online.

I tilted the washer back to take a look at the belts. Because the transmission pulley was giving me grief again, with the transmission wheel being too "stiff" to turn to the right with the belts on (and off), I thought that might be related to why the washer would not spin out.

I thought I had installed the Maytag OEM belts correctly, two times. Because the transmission belt was not turning the transmission pulley (nor would the wheel turn to the right by hand with the belt on), I thought the belts might be stretched or not putting enough tension on their respective pulleys. So luckily, I had a spare set of generic "Jason" belts in the laundry room to try. I installed both of these generic Jason belts and whaddya know? The washer drained correctly for a test cycle!

Maybe the new Maytag belts were stretched out or were manufactured slightly longer (we're talking millimeters here), and the belts and pulleys weren't getting proper tension (mainly on the transmission belt wheel). I am pretty sure I installed these OEM belts correctly, by putting more tension on the transmission belt, and less tension on the pump belt (transmission belt tight, pump belt loose). I moved the pump with its three screws all the way to the right for install.

I will await your answers on bypassing the air gap (what size of hose and fittings to buy) and also your instructions on the lid switch tab going in front of or behind the white cover tab. I put the machine together again, and I think I have it correct to have the metal arm go behind the tub cover tab. Agree/disagree?

Later today (Fri) I am planning to do a few loads of laundry from a mountain I need to get through. Fingers crossed for good news. I will let you know the verdict.


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Oh wait, I forgot on these older Maytag's you tilt the washer back and loosen the water pump screws then move the pump to the right to give more tension on the pump belt, then hold the pump at the correct tension spot and tighten the water pump screws back in place.

For bypassing the air gap, do I put a larger section of hose OVER the two ends with two clamps on either end, or do I buy a plumbing piece that fits INSIDE the two fittings?
Wait, your talking about that black rubber injector on the left side? Whats wrong with it? Is it leaking?

Wait, your talking about that black rubber injector on the left side? Whats wrong with it? Is it leaking?

The white plastic part (air gap?) was filling up and leaking before I took off and changed both belts, because one or both of the belts was not getting enough tension (pump or transmission), and the washer had trouble draining. Water filled to the highest level of the machine would swirl and overflow the top cover of the tub.

I placed two generic, non-OEM "Jason" brand belts on the washer, made sure they were positioned properly, and the Maytag is draining and agitating fine now! I think I will forego the air gap "bypass surgery" for now. They say that plastic part air gap is pretty useless/unneeded anyway as a water backflow preventer, for regulatory reasons, I suppose. I would notice if water was overflowing the tub and moving backwards into the inlet/water supply line, and that would probably indicate an issue with the water level hose or air pressure switch in the control panel. I suppose they put the air gap on these models to comply with regulatory city water codes and such.

MOAR Problems:

But a couple of new problems have occurred: the washer was rocking back and forth VIOLENTLY toward the end of the first load. I believe the unbalance lever had moved IN FRONT OF the cover tab due to spin forces. I moved the unbalance lever behind the tab for the second load of clothes and it stayed in place this time. Is the unbalance lever something you recommend I replace as well? I think I saw it for sale when I was browsing Repair Clinic. I also screwed in the four washer leveling legs all the way, so the washer is close to the floor, to minimize vibration.

I only managed to do two loads of clothes yesterday, so the verdict is not a complete success yet, but it is up and running and getting there. :)


1. I wanted to ask, because there are some (maybe excessive?) shaking and rocking noises coming from the outer tub as it enters the spin or rinse cycles and picks up speed, do I need to replace the damper pads or those three tension springs that hold up the tub? I don't want the hoses to fall off the black outer tub due to shaking.

2. Do I need to replace the unbalance lever/arm, and am I correct in placing it behind the cover tab (pretty sure it goes that way)?

3. I noticed a small leak trickling downwards where the tub seal (large rubber ring) is held in place by an outer metal ring-shaped bracket. I tightened the two bolts on the outer metal ring bracket VERY tightly and I still see this leak at one of the bolt joints. I think because the underside of the tub cover had some rust (I wire brushed and spray painted it), the rubber seal isn't getting a perfect seal. Or maybe the old seal is stretched/worn. I think I would like to order a new rubber seal, though, to be on the safe side. See this hyperlink: Maytag Washing Machine Tub Seal WP211232 | RepairClinic.com. Is this the one I need?


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