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FIXED Maytag A612S Washer - Slow Spin

toot1977

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
19
Location
michigan
Model Number
A612S
Brand
Maytag
Age
More than 10 years
I have a Maytag A612S washing machine that we purchased new and has served us well with only a couple of belt replacements over the years. Recently, we have noticed that it is not spinning as fast. Clothes are not getting spun out as good, and after watching I can see that it does not get up to a sufficient spin speed to empty the fabric softener cup until the very end of the final spin. I cleaned & wire brushed the pulleys, checked the motor mount, and installed new belts. The old transmission belt looked okay but was shiny. With the belts removed, I can rotate the transmission pulley in both directions. It turns quiet easily in the direction to agitate. It is a little firmer, but does turn without much effort in the spin direction. There is no abnormal noise in either direction. This washer has what I believe is the old, and apparently no longer available flat style transmission with the counter weight.

My questions are:

What’s wrong? Does it sound like I have transmission problems and if so, is there a replacement transmission for this washer and if so, is it of the same quality as the original?

If I tackle this repair, what all parts should I replace, bearings, seals, etc?

Many of the owners of these older Maytags in my area have been replacing them with Speed Queen (top loaders with the mechanical knob controls). Is this a wise choice as opposed to the cost of the parts that you expect I should be replacing?

Thanks for your help
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
That model style Maytag is considered by many service techs as one of the best machines ever made. The machine is built like a tank. It's easy to repair and most parts are still available. JMO but I think it's ten times better than a Speed Queen.


Does it sound like I have transmission problems?
No, the slow spin can be caused by the tub bearing or spin bearing but before you replace them check a few other things first.
1. Check the pump is pumping all the water out and there's a good steady stream.
2. Check the motor glides and springs. The motor needs to move back and forth on the mounting plate to keep the pressure steady on the motor pulley. Spray the glides and springs with WD40 and use your hand to move the motor.
3. Check the adjustment of the drive lug:
Unplug the machine and disconnect the hoses. Lay the washer down on it’s front. Remove the belts and check for any pieces of belt missing. A notch in a belt can cause a knocking noise. Remove the dust cover in the center of the drive pulley. Do not clean out the grease in the dust cover. Turn the drive pulley onto the shaft clockwise until all the play is taken up. Holding the pulley in this position, the distance between the drive lug and pulley lug should be 3/8”. Turn the pulley counterclockwise and check to see that the drive lug and pulley are making contact.
Maytag Drive Lug.jpeg

what all parts should I replace,
Here's the motor glides:
Motor Mount Spring Kit 205000
Motor-Mount-Spring-Kit-205000--00817594.jpgMotor-Mount-Spring-Kit-205000--00817174.jpg

6-2040130 Tub Bearing Kit


6-2095720 Mounting Stem Repair Kit


Pro TJ90TB123A Spanner Wrench


WP22003441 Bearing
 

toot1977

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
19
Location
michigan
After finally getting back to my slow spinning A612S, I followed your instructions above (thank you!). The primary problem appears to have been the tub bearing as it was very difficult to turn. In addition to replacing the tub bearing and seal, I also replaced the lower radial bearing (above the brake). I have the washer back together and cannot get it to spin. The motor runs and I can see the pump turning. I am thinking it must have something to do with the brake, although it worked fine prior to my removing it to replace the bearing. I am confident that I have the tub and tub bearing installed correctly.

With the brake removed, I can easily spin the transmission assembly with my hand (this was very difficult before replacing he tub bearing). As I install the brake assembly by threading it on, the transmission assembly spins with the brake assembly for about the first 2/3 way on, then there appears to start being resistance (from the brake?) and the transmission assembly starts to become harder to turn. By the time the brake assembly gets threaded all the way in, I cannot spin the transmission assembly. The lock clip (7/16 hex bolt) is gripping the bottom thread, and that appears to be where it was originally from previous indentation marks. I then set the bottom key washer by turning the pulley as far clockwise as it will go and setting it to 1/2" gap from there. But the only movement that I have on the pulley is the movement within the ½” gap, it will turn not further in either direction. This does not seem right to me. Can someone explain the proper brake operation and what I am missing here? Thanks for your help.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
By the time the brake assembly gets threaded all the way in, I cannot spin the transmission assembly.
Insert the brake package over the drive tube splines and start the threads of the brake package into the damper turning it by hand. When turning the brake package into the damper allow the transmission to turn so you don’t have to overcome the friction of the brake. When you have it threaded tight use the brake tool and hammer to seat it firmly in place. Replace the retaining clip and bolt in the damper.

If the brake package was installed correctly the brake is engaged and the transmission will not turn. When the machine goes into a spin cycle the rotor bearing and pulley ride up the shaft and push against the brake package to release it. Turn the drive pulley and rotor bearing onto the shaft clockwise until all the play is taken up but don't release the brake. Holding the pulley in this position, the distance between the drive lug and pulley lug should be 3/8”. Turn the pulley counterclockwise and check to see that the drive lug and pulley are making contact.
 

toot1977

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
19
Location
michigan
Thanks for the prompt reply. Following your instructions, I repeated the brake package install. I can turn the brake package by hand while installing (transmission assy is turning also) until about the last full turn at which point the transmission stops turning and I use the wrench to finish the final turn to tighten. From the clip marks, I believe the brake package is being seated in the same position as where it first started.

At this point it appears to me that the brake is engaged because the transmission assy will not turn when I try to turn it by hand.

I then install the pulley & rotor bearing, by turning onto the shaft clockwise. It spins on freely to a position where is stops but there is no resistance, or spring pressure pushing back on it (I call this position A), I can spin it another 45 degrees while there is considerable spring pressure pushing it back counter clockwise. It will only go about the 45 degrees and stops. (I call that position B). From watching videos, I was unclear which position to use for the 3/8" gap, and I have tried both. From your instructions above, I believe you are saying to use what I called position A.

At this point, the pulley spins counter clockwise (by hand with minimal effort) and the agitator operates. The pulley lug contacts the drive lug when turning the pulley counter clockwise. When i spin the pulley clockwise, it goes 45 degrees past position A to position B and stops (this is about 120-130 degrees away from the drive lug), it will turn no further (with great effort I can barely turn the pulley resulting in a grinding noise). I assume the brake is still engaged. When I place the brake package (with the radial bearing seated) on the floor, I can press down on it with my 250#'s and feel some spring give in it. It appears to me that whatever is supposed to happen when the pulley starts turning clockwise to release the brake is not happening.

What I have done is to; 1) remove the brake package & replace the radial bearing (I have tried putting the original bearing back in with the same result), and 2) remove and replace the tub bearing and seal. I have tried to clean pieces as I reinstalled. I did not open or disassemble the brake package. I believe the tub bearing & seal are installed properly as the inner tub does spin nicely up until the final turn of installing the brake package. This all started due to a slow spin which I now believe was caused by a tight tub bearing. I do not see any signs of the seal leakage anywhere.

Any further thoughts? did I do something to the brake while removing it? will a new brake solve this?

Thanks again
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I can spin it another 45 degrees while there is considerable spring pressure pushing it back counter clockwise.
The resistance (pushing against the brake package) releases the brake and at that point the transmission, inner tub and drive pulley all turn together with very little resistance. When you stop turning the drive pulley CW the brake engages and everything stops turning. If that's not happening something went wrong with the reassembly somewhere.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
This all started due to a slow spin which I now believe was caused by a tight tub bearing.
Or the slow spin was due to the brake not releasing all the way. And now maybe it's not releasing at all?? If you can't keep turning the pulley after you feel the resistance the brake is not releasing.

Brake Assembly WP6-2011900
 

toot1977

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
19
Location
michigan
I did order the new brake from the link you provided and washer will now spin and agitate properly. My last problem with this thing is that I am having difficulty getting the inner tub to keep from hitting the outer tub during the spin cycles. This was not an issue (it is easily heard) before I started working on this although I do see signs of scuffing that are old enough to have rust around the edges . This washer has the metal tub cover that is held on with the metal band clamp and rubber washer. The top of the inner tub is hitting the inside of the outer tub cover ring on the side. I have tried adjusting the height of the tub cover ring without much success. I have also tried loosening the inner tub nut and re-centering the inner tub. Is there a procedure to make sure the inner tub does not hit the outer tub cover ring during spin? All the videos I find show the plastic cover and I find no mention of the metal cover.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The older maytags had the metal cover. I used the width of my finger to gauge the space between the cover and top of the tub. Make sure the balance springs are adjusted the same. Try changing the position of the large clamp. I can't remember if there are two screws for that large clamp, if so adjust them evenly.
 

DryClean

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
WI
Thank you guys for the detailed troubleshooting. I have an old circa 1991 Maytag A9700S washer that seems to have the same problem...spin has been slowing down for weeks I presume, till finally I smell burnt rubber. That's when I noticed that the spin started slowly and then stopped. No squealing or odd noise, just eventually start smelling bunt rubber. Same issue regardless of normal or gentle cycle. Drains ok. Agitates ok. At first, thought maybe something stuck between the inner and outer tub. Took apart the top outer tub cover, band and rubber seal, and inner tub. Had to chisel out the spanning nut to get the inner tub out because the spanner wrench did not budge it at all despite numerous days soaking it with liquid wrench penetrating oil. Bummer! Took out the inner tub and nothing stuck in there. Try turning the bottom pulley, and agitates no problem. Start turning the pulley the other way, and the pulley rises up quite a bit (1/2'?) and then becomes VERY hard to turn at all after about 2 full rotations. Brake or bearing issue (tub and or radial bearings)...or all? I don't have the special brake removal tool (TG 03815 I think, and its not available any more), so not sure how I'll be able to remove the brake...Maybe vice grips and give that a whack...
So not sure which to try next, brake?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The drive pulley rides up and pushes against the brake package. This releases the brake. To service the brake package without removing it from the machine do this:

CAUTION: The brake package contains a spring which is partially compressed and exerting 200 lbs. of pressure.
To service the brake package without removing it from the washer, remove the drive pulley and replace every other brake drum retaining screw with 1 ½” long 8-32 machine screw and snug them against the brake drum. Remove the four remaining brake drum screws and then alternately the four long machine screws just inserted. The idea is to lower the brake down evenly to avoid bending it. As the screws are loosened the brake spring will reach the limit of its extension. You will run out of spring pressure before you run out of screw thread.

When reassembling the brake, fill the rubber dust cap which fits over the end of the drive pulley with automotive transmission fluid (about 2 oz) then pour the fluid over the lip of the brake package and replace the dust cap. Use two capfuls (about 2 oz). Once the brake has been reinstalled, turn the pulley on the shaft until the brake is disengaged. With the brake disengaged the oil will run into the brake package. Turn the pulley several times to insure proper lubrication.

The drive pulley and drive lug need to be adjusted correctly. Remove the dust cover in the center of the drive pulley. Do not clean out the grease in the dust cover. Turn the drive pulley onto the shaft clockwise until all the play is taken up. Holding the pulley in this position, the distance between the drive lug and pulley lug should be 3/8”. Turn the pulley counterclockwise and check to see that the drive lug and pulley are making contact
L-Maytag Brake and Drive Pulley.jpg
 

DryClean

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
WI
Thank you, very helpful! I took the pulley off, it and the screw and drive lug and bearing look fine, bearing spins easily with no slop and still all nicely greased. Like new!
So I took the brake apart, the spring looks brand new, and the brake 'shoe' not worn out. All seems fine except the gasket came off in 2 pieces. I found it odd that there was oil in the brake assembly, lubricating the shoe?! Or maybe it was all the penetrating oil I used trying to get the tub spanner nut loose and it leaked down through the shaft and mixed with the grease to create the black oil that is in the brake assembly.
Nonetheless, I put the brake shoe on the spline shaft and tried to turn it. Only will turn with alot of help turning the transmission with it. Very difficult. I also noticed when the transmission turns, the rubber boot on the bottom of the tub want to turn with it...seems odd right? Go after the tub bearing next?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
38,765
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I found it odd that there was oil in the brake assembly,
Probably water. Replace the tub bearing and the tub mounting stem kit at the same time. You may also need to replace the spin bearing. I have the brake package removal tool but it's no longer available. You might be able to find one online or try using a strap wrench.
6-2040130 Tub Bearing Kit


6-2095720 Mounting Stem Repair Kit


Pro TJ90TB123A Spanner Wrench


WP22003441 Bearing


TJ038315 Tool, Brake Pkg Assy
 

DryClean

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2020
Messages
4
Location
WI
Sorry for the delay, some things take time...Especially since I have been very fortunate to be working remotely full time, and then some.
But this past weekend I finished taking it all apart, cleaning up and patching the rusted parts with (Rustoleum) Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. Then I painted the parts and or areas that would be visible once all put together, with white Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy Spray Paint (looks like a perfect color match btw). This included painting the underside of the lid, the top of the outer tub, parts of the side and top panels, and the entire front panel. Put it all together and tried it out, 'dry' run. Seemed to work now except a bit of a metal-metal rub sound on each revolution of the inner tub...Began to panic as I thought I might have messed up and left a screw or something in the bottom of the outer tub, and would have to take it all apart again. But no, apparently the top part of the outer tub was pushed too far down, so I had to loosen the metal band with the rubber seal and raise the metal top of the outside tub so that it just clears the top panel of the washer by 1/4" or so. (I have the metal top for the outside tub, not the plastic one.) Ran 6 loads of laundry yesterday and all seemed to work well. I have some leftover work to do to fix the bracket that triggers the door lid stop switch if the tub is shaking too much when spinning. This bracket had rusted off on the top part of the outer tub. Until then I'll be babysitting this washer so that it wont self destruct if it gets too out of balance when its spinning.
Can't thank you's enough for your help and insights -God bless you! And the videos for the parts on AppliancePartsPros.com was HUGELY helpful! Some videos on RepairClinic.com were useful, but not nearly as detailed.
 
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