Maytag Bravos MVWX655DW0 spin issue. F7 E1 error

[Wfay93]

Model Number

MVWX655DW0

Brand

Maytag

Age

6-10 years

Hey everyone! I’m having an issue with my washer that is driving me crazy. I’m getting an f7 e1 basket speed error. I do the manual speed test and it works fine, the lights spin when the basket spins. If I do a calibration it works fine. Agitate, rinse, drain, spin all work fine. Though the spin portion goes on for almost 10 minutes which I think is longer than expected.

Any time I do the automatic test cycle or any real cycle the washer fails to spin and gives a blinking lid lock error. If I tip the machine I can see the shift actuator is moving correctly between agitate and spin, and it will usually try to spin up where the agitator really gets going fast and the drum starts to spin but then the lid lock blinks and the cycle shuts down.

 

[Jake]

Ok, there is a simple test to know if the shift actuator is the problem or not.

Here's the shift actuator for your model:
W10913953 Actuator


That simple test is in this thread:

FIXED - MVWX655DW1 Washer not spinning

I have read the many posts that have the same title and issue. They were not helpful. My washer is about 2 1/2 years old. Within the first week of having it the machine would not complete the total cycles. It eventually stopped doing that and operated properly again. About twice a year it...

www.applianceblog.com

You can Do this test below to verify it too:

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly(shift actuator) is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Jake

You can see the new shift actuator fixed his washer.

 

[Wfay93]

Hi there! I can get into diagnostic mode but I’m not sure from there how to get it into manual test mode for heavy agitation or spin. Also I should have mentioned i proactively replaced the shift actuator with a new OEM part because it is such a common failure point for this particular problem. Of course, now that it’s still not working I probably should have done more trouble shooting before buying the part, but I believe I can return it if I end up getting to the bottom of this.

 

[Wfay93]

Update: I’ve found manual test mode but I’m not sure which group of lights corresponds to which test. Several tests will not run at all, simply flashing the lights when I press “start/pause”. I did get one test to run which ran the agitator for a few seconds but then the lid locked light flashed and the error appeared in the diagnostic codes again.

Again, I’ve already replaced the shift actuator AND I know the machine is mechanically capable of both agitation and spin because when I run the calibration mode it does both tasks without issue.

 

[Jake]

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model: https://www.dropbox.com/s/pedo2ae6463sfde/MVWX655DW0 Tech Sheet - W10677676 - Rev B.pdf?dl=0

Get into the ACTIVATING THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE on Page 2--->then MANUAL TEST MODE: Page 4

Then on Page 9 you can run Agitate and Spin modes manually, IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed and locked to perform SPIN & AGITATE tests.

If you already replaced the shift actuator, then its possibly a bad control board.

DO TEST #1 Main Control.

Here's the main control board for your model:
Control Board W10625696


TEST #1: Main Control Page 12 and 13
This test checks for incoming and outgoing supplies to and from the main control. This test assumes that proper voltage is present at the outlet.
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Remove console to access main control.
3. Verify that ALL connectors are inserted all the way into the main control.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J7-3 (Neutral) and red probe to J7-1 (L1).
 If 120VAC is present, go to step 6.
 If 120VAC is not present, check the AC power cord for continuity (See Figure 9).
6. Is the “Diagnostic LED” ON or OFF? (See Figure 3 below for LED location.)
 ON: (+5VDC present) continue to step 7.
 OFF: (+5VDC missing) proceed to step 8.
7. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC).
 If +13VDC is present, main control supplies are good.
 If +13VDC is not present, go to step 8.
8. Check if shifter assembly is affecting the main control DC supplies.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Remove connector J2 from main control.
c. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
d. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Perform the +13VDC check inside header J2 on the board – do not short pins together.
 If one or more DC voltages are still missing, go to step 9.
 If the DC voltages return, check for short in
harness between main control and shifter assy.
 If harness and connections are good, replace shifter assembly.
9. Main Control has malfunctioned.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

Let us know what you find.

 

[Wfay93]

Posting a quick update before I dive further in tomorrow. Thank you for posting the pdf of the manual it made running the diagnostics much easier. Curiously, manual diagnostic tests for gentle agitation, heavy agitation, and high spin all pass without issue. Low spin however triggers the blinking lid lock and F7 E1 error after a few seconds of spinning. Not sure what to make of that. I’ll start the main control test tomorrow morning and post another update when I’m finished.

 

[Jake]

I’ll start the main control test tomorrow morning and post another update when I’m finished.

Yes, that's good to do, let us know what you find.

 

[Wfay93]

Updating again after doing the above test. I found the 13VDC on the J2 connector as explained in the manual so it would seem the main board has it failed. However I still get the f7 e1 error any time the machine attempts low spin. Any thoughts on what to check next? I believe the manual suggests checking the electrical connection between j16 and the shift actuator.

 

[Jake]

7. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC).
--->If +13VDC is present, main control supplies are good.

The main board is good.

Page 13--->TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter
Do all the steps it says to do.

Unplug the machine and access the main control board.

Remove connector J16 from main control board. With a multimeter, verify resistance of the shifter motor across J16-1 and J16-2 connector pinouts. Meter should indicate between 2K ohms and 3.5K ohms.

Remove the J16 connector from the main control board and ohm test across the J16, 1 and 2 Connector Pinouts.
Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k Ω.
--->If values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7.
 If values are open or out of range, go to step 13.
7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.

IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.

NOTE: It will take between 4-15 seconds for the shifter to change states.

If 120 VAC is present, go to step 9.

 

[Wfay93]

Hey there! Was able to follow through with the remaining troubleshooting steps and these were the results.
Verify 120 VAC on j16 1 and 2: confirmed
Verify +5 VDC in spin and +0 VDC in agitate on J2 1 and 3: confirmed
Confirm +13 VDC on j2 3 and 4: confirmed
Verify tachometer: confirmed

At this point the manual suggests replacing the main control board, though no specific fault has been identified. I will order a new board and see how it goes.

 

[Jake]

Yes, that confirms the main control board is the problem.

 

[Wfay93]

Well after all that time and $300 later the machine is exhibiting the EXACT same behavior. With the new board installed it gives an f7 e1 error when performing automatic tests. In manual tests it completes high spin without issues but fails to complete low spin. The result of calibration mode HAS to be a clue as to what’s going on. Calibration should take 2-4 minutes according to the manual.

When I run calibration mode everything is normal until the machine begins to spin. At that time, it spins very fast, even faster than experienced in the high spin manual test and it spins for a LONG time.

After spinning nonstop for about 7 minutes all LEDs go dark except for lid lock. Then, about two minutes later lis lock begins to blink. The washer continues spinning until about 14 minutes total have passed at which point it slows to a stop. No error code is stored afterwards but obviously this is not the expected behavior. I tested all the same voltages, continuities, and resistances with the new board and everything was good. I also ran the tachometer test successfully.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then you possibly have a defective shift actuator, where did you buy it from?

Recheck the shift actuator tests with a fresh battery in your meter. 99% of the time f7 e1 is the shift actuator, trust me, I replace many of these in my local area every year for the same issue and same error code.

Jake

 

[Wfay93]

I got my shift actuator from genuinereplacementparts.com it claimed to be a new, OEM product and it does look just like the original. Also, mechanically it seems fine. If I’m not mistaken, the shift actuator simply moves the transmission from agitate to spin. Considering that high spin works and agitate works, what about the shift actuator would be causing low spin to fail? And why would the issue be the same both with the original shift actuator and the new one i replaced it with? It seems unusual for both of them to fail in the exact same way. I will re test as you suggested.

 

[Jake]

Because the shift actuator also have the optical sensor on it that monitors the spin speed, look on Page 14 of your tech. data sheet.

You already tested that correct?

 

[Wfay93]

Yes I tested the tachometer using the multimeter and the diagnostic test where you spin the tub of the machine. Interestingly I swapped in my original shift actuator to try the tests again and it ALSO passed all the tests for voltage and tachometer. It does feel like there is an issue with the machine incorrectly sensing speed but the diagnostics suggest otherwise.

 

[Jake]

Yes, this does not make sense to me either.

>ITS BEST You contact Whirlpool at 1-866-698-2538 and have a tech come out, the tech can call the factory on a special FACTORY HOTLINE tech number from your house, and the factory can get involved in investigating this issue you're having.