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Maytag Bravos xl gas dryer turns on and runs, but no glow from the igniter - MGDB835DW4 Serial #M84729788

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
Model Number
MGDB835DW4
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Dryer is ~18 months old. Dryer turns on and runs, but no glow from the igniter. I have run the following tests...

1 - Tested for continuity on all parts
2 - Tested for Resistance on solenoids.
3 - Ran the tests on the ACU
4 - Ran tests on the Motor Circuit, including the belt switch
5 - Started replacing parts, even though they depicted continuity or correct resistance (Thermal Fuse, Outlet Thermistor, Igniter, Solenoids). Still no flame, but dryer is running.
6 - Finally, brought in a technician to the home. He went through all of his tests and could not find anything either. He finally concluded that the ACU had to be bad. Well, replaced the ACU. No success.

I am so ready to just purchase another dryer and chuck this Maytag Bravos, but I am determined to get it back up and running, even though my better half is soooo done with this Maytag and not having a dryer in the home.

So, I am back at the drawing board. Thinking that I should just replace the Thermal Cut-Off and High Limit Thermostat. Both of these components have continuity. Last evening I ran the Inlet Thermistor (which I believe is the Thermal Cut-Off) test for "resistance" by measuring the resistance at the ACU between P14-1 and P14-2 and compared it to the "Gas - Inlet Thermistor Resistance" chart in the "For Service Technician's Use Only" manual (TEST #4a: Thermistors) and the resistance level that I received was much lower than the resistance range given in the manual. Could this be the issue? Even though the Thermal Cut-Off (aka Inlet Thermistor) has continuity, could the resistance be the problem? If so, should the Thermal Cut-Off and High Limit Thermostat be replaced in tandem?

Any help would be WONDERFUL! Thank you and I hope everyone has a safe, healthy and happy Thanksgiving!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Dryer turns on and runs, but no glow from the igniter.
Start the dryer on timed dry and select high heat. Disconnect the wire connector going to the gas valve assembly and check for 120 VAC supply voltage going to the gas valve.
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
If I disconnected the correct wire connector (the one that sends power to the gas value, flame sensor, igniter, Thermal Cut-Off and High Limit Thermostat), then I am measuring way less than 120 volts. Suggestion?
 

rickgburton

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If there's no voltage check for 120 VAC on the control board across the wires on the heater relay and P8-3 (N)
 

rickgburton

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Going to the gas valve, correct? Check the flame switch and ignitor for continuity:
whirlpool-radiant-sensor-wp338906-ap6008294_01_m.jpg

whirlpool-dryer-igniter-kit-279311-ap3094138_01_m.jpg
 

rickgburton

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Really? OK here's the deal, The 120 VAC you measured at the connector, L1 goes to one side of the igniter and Neutral goes to the other side of the igniter through the flame switch. Measure the voltage at the igniter. If the voltage is 120 VAC and the igniter doesn't glow, replace it.
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
I tested the 120 VAC at the igniter and have 120 VAC. The igniter is brand new. I already replaced it even though the igniter replaced was showing continuity.

I retested the power to the gas value and I do not know what I did last time, but I have 120 VAC going to the gas value.

I am so perplexed. I have been working on this dryer for I do not know how many hours. It does not make sense.
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
The igniter does have resistance and continuity.

I already replaced the thermal fuse and the Outlet Thermistor. Also, replaced the Igniter (as mentioned above). And the Solenoids.

Could it be the motor? I do not believe so, since there is power.

Belt switch?

What is next?
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
Can I start overriding components and testing? I hate to do this, since the components are there for a reason.
 

deddy40

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Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
Purchased that off of Amazon through Repairwares. The ACU was purchased through SearsPartsDirect and the belt switch was purchased from Easy Appliance Parts.
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
The web link that you sent me for the Igniter (AppliancePartsPro.com) is stating that it is not in stock. Any other suggestion on where to purchase?
 

rickgburton

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In stock at repairclinic:
 

deddy40

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Wilton, NY
I had the 2 igniters tested by using clips and plugging the igniters into a 120 outlet. Both glowed. So, it does not appear to be the igniter.

Retested the voltage to the igniter by keeping it attached to the wiring harness and putting the testing probes in the igniter plug to the wiring harness. No 120 VAC. Rechecked The flame sensor and it shows continuity.

Could the ACU that was shipped to me be bad?
 

rickgburton

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If you have 120 VAC going to the gas valve, L1 goes to one side of the igniter. Neutral goes to the other side of the igniter through the flame switch. If the flame switch is good then you should have 120 VAC at the igniter. You're missing something. Recheck your measurements.
 
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