FIXED Maytag Centennial MEDC400VW0 No heat & continuous running

[Jeh220]

Model Number

MEDC400VW0

Brand

Maytag

Age

1-5 years

Hello,

Just wanted to say this is a great forum - lots of information here.

My Maytag Centennial (inherited with new house purchase) does not heat and will run all night long on any timer settings. So far I have verified that the power supply from the outlet is good (121 v per leg) and that both of the brown (purple?) wires across the timer motor have 120v when the machine is on and running.

I wanted to see if there was any input out there before I buy a new $95 timer - also, could the timer failing cause the dryer to not heat? i.e. could it make the heating circuit not know to turn on? Or am I chasing two separate issues?

So far I have not tested any of the thermo switches or heating element for continuity. Have been dreading taking the drum out to get to that stuff.

Any input is appreciated,

James

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

So far I have verified that the power supply from the outlet is good (121 v per leg)

And what was it across both lines?

and that both of the brown (purple?) wires across the timer motor have 120v when the machine is on and running.

The timer motor has power but is not advancing/moving?...in all cycles?

could the timer failing cause the dryer to not heat?

It is not overly common for doing that, but yes it is possible.

So far I have not tested any of the thermo switches or heating element for continuity. Have been dreading taking the drum out to get to that stuff

Most of these are tested at the back anyways...



LINK> Dryer timer

jeff.

 

[Jeh220]

Reply

And what was it across both lines?

Will check this

The timer motor has power but is not advancing/moving?...in all cycles?

Yep that's correct

It is not overly common for doing that, but yes it is possible.

Guess I will test the heating element & other related parts - looks like they are easy to get to.
Is there another test you recommend for the timer other than the supply voltage? If not I guess I will go ahead and order one.



Most of these are tested at the back anyways...

 

[jeff1]

The timer motor has power but is not advancing/moving?...in all cycles?
Yep that's correct

Bad timer.

Is there another test you recommend for the timer other than the supply voltage?

Testing for what?

jeff.

 

[Jeh220]

Ok, Will get a timer.
Last night I popped the back off and tested the thermal fuse, thermal cutout, heating element, and high limit thermostat. All had resistance readings (no open circuits) and 120v on both sides with the unit running...so it doesn't seem as though they are bad.

The heating element has only one wire going to one terminal and the other is a dead end. It had 120v going to it but was not getting hot. 11 ohms between the terminals.

 

[jeff1]

he heating element has only one wire going to one terminal and the other is a dead end.

Post a picture.

and 120v on both sides with the unit running

What was the reading across the two 120v sides?

jeff.

 

[Jeh220]

Ok,
Sorry to say I installed the new timer over the weekend and nothing changed - still have the same symptoms of no heat and continuous running in all settings, even air fluff. Any ideas?

 

[bigbuck]

Have you check this thermostat that is on the heater? Also the heat circuit runs through the motor relay.Here is your wiring diagram.
High Limit Thermostat 3977767 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

 

[Jeh220]

bigbuck,
I have checked the high level thermostat and at room temperature there is continuity like it says it should have on the parts description. Is it worth trying to 'jump' any of these thermostats to test if the unit works? i. e. unplugging them and running a jumper wire between the leads I have done this many times on 12v automotive systems...never on a dryer though.

 

[bigbuck]

As seen by the wiring diagram your timer motor needs 240 volts to advance.Is the new time moving at all? If not you may need to check the L2 leg on the Dryer again.

 

[Jeh220]

As seen by the wiring diagram your timer motor needs 240 volts to advance.Is the new time moving at all? If not you may need to check the L2 leg on the Dryer again.

New timer is not moving at all - will check L2

 

[bigbuck]

Check for loose wire behind this terminal block and test for proper voltage with the dryer on.Here is a video that may help. How to Check the Power to your Dryer - Not Heating or Not Running - YouTube

 

[jeff1]

What was the reading across the two 120v sides?

??

Sorry to say I installed the new timer over the weekend and nothing changed

The timer motor has power but is not advancing/moving?...in all cycles?
Yep that's correct

*If* the timer motor IS getting power, it should be moving/advancing....doesn't sounds like it is getting power.

And what was it across both lines?

Still waiting for the power readings.....220-240 volts AC from red to black, 110-120 volts AC from red or black to white.

jeff.

 

[Jeh220]

Electrical update

Jeff, bigbuck

Measured some voltages last night - 120v between L1 & N and 120v between L2 & N...But zero between L1 & L2. Started at the terminals on the dryer and worked back to the panel with the same results.

This might end up being not a dryer issue but a house electrical issue. The electric stove (240) breaker is giving readings between L1 & L2 that jump from zero to 180.
Saw similar behavior in my folks' farm house - ended up being an issue with the transformer at the street and the legs of power were out of phase in the house so none of the 240 stuff worked correctly.

This being a new house to us it is hard to gauge how well the 240 stuff is working...but the stove doesn't get that hot and neither does the new water heater...

I should note that in the next few weeks we are having our breaker panel replaced and disconnect upgraded. Just waiting on the municipality to put the permit through. It is an original (1979) Federal Pacific box with Stab - Lok breakers which haven't been made in 20 years or more due to their unreliability and potential for not tripping when needed and burning houses down...

 

[Jeh220]

Ok, seems like we are not getting 240v from any of the dual pole breakers for the 240v circuits! Electrician is coming by to verify this tomorrow in case the work order for the electrical upgrades has to be altered. In California doing work like this is a real hassle - the municipality and energy provider are involved every step of the way and there is a 2 month waiting list...

Will keep you guys posted. This dryer might end up being the canary in the coal mine...

 

[bigbuck]

Sounds good.

 

[jeff1]

there is a 2 month waiting list

WOW!!

Measured some voltages last night - 120v between L1 & N and 120v between L2 & N...But zero between L1 & L2.

No wonder the 220-240 volt timer motor was not moving.

Will keep you guys posted

Great

jeff.

 

[Jeh220]

Gentlemen,
Good news. I determined that half of our 240 dual pole breakers were faulty (including the dryer one) hence the incorrect voltages. I wired the dryer circuit into an unused 50 amp breaker which feeds an outlet in the garage (maybe for a welder?) and bam - fired right up with heat and an advancing timer.
So looks like the dryer is fine. Put the old timer back in and it works. It was a power supply issue all along. This will be fixed across the board when we get the new panel installed.
Guess I will return the new timer as it is not needed.
Thanks for the help and hopefully this information will be helpful to others down the line.

Cheers

 

[jeff1]

Thankx for the update.

jeff.