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Maytag Centennial MVWC400XW4 grind sound during Agitate

andrewtbone

Premium Member
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New York
Model Number
MVWC400XW4
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
My Maytag Centennial MVWC400XW4 makes a grinding or gear slipping sound during Agitate/Wash cycle every other motion.

I do not get any error codes on the diagnostics.
Have previously and recently replaced the Shift Actuator (fixed error code), Drive Hub and Splutch Cam & belt in that order. Both the Shift actuator & drive Hub seemed to fix problems but within a couple of weeks of replacing the Drive Hub, noticed cycle would not complete. Replaced the Splutch Cam & belt and double checked. Now we get a sort of grinding or gear slipping as if threads are stripped noise during agitate. Ran diagnostics, not error codes.
When I ran test cycle in diagnostic mode one can hear the sound. Please refer to the attached video around the 22 second mark and when both the Wash & Spin lights are on.

Any ideas on what this could be? And is there a simple way to bypass the lid lock so we can see what is happening during the agitate cycle?
Would prefer to fix right now.

Thank you in advance for your time and advice.
 

Attachments

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    36.4 MB
Since you've already replace the splutch cam kit and shift actuator then only part left that would cause this problem is the transmission(gearcase) itself.

Here's the gearcase for your model: W11454372

And is there a simple way to bypass the lid lock so we can see what is happening during the agitate cycle?
No, but you can raise the entire top and watch it agitate.

Watch this video below to left the top, it starts at about the 1:00 mark:

Edit--->added more information
One other part could be the agitator itself stripping, remove the agitator and run it in that same cycle and see if it makes that noise with the agitator off.

Here's the washplate for your model:
WPW10553968 Washplate




Jake
 
Jake, thank you for your detailed response.
Before looking to replace the gearcase/transmission which may be above my pay grade/abilities and not a good ROI, I am wondering if I could have messed up replacing the Drive hub or Splutch cam.
The replacements seemed simple enough and went ok.
I did not notice that when I went to remove the washplate when replacing the drive hub it was somewhat stuck. I was able to get it out eventually without having to force it. Now, when I went to check, I was not able to remove the washplate. It seems to be stuck. Could this be an issue and any advice on how to remove the washplate?
I did check the Splutch Cam and it seemed to move freely with the spring working etc.

I think my next step will be to try remove the washplate
 
Ok,

If you have trouble getting the washplate off, Watch this video below, he uses 2 pull hook tools to get it off:



Jake
 
Thank you, that makes sense. Seeing as the Spin and everything else seems to be Ok am I guessing that the Washplate might be problem. If the transmission/gearcase was failing then wouldn't that impact the Spin/rinse cycles s well?
And I trust that when I said "I did not notice" above I really meant "I did notice".

Again, thank you so much for quick and detailed responses.

This has been a great help.
Andy
 
If the transmission/gearcase was failing then wouldn't that impact the Spin/rinse cycles s well?
Not necessarily Andy.

And I trust that when I said "I did not notice" above I really meant "I did notice".
Yes, I got it! I didn't even notice that you mentioned it. LOL

Jake
 
Jake, just to let you know, replaced the washplate and no change so it has to be the gearcase then. I looked at a couple of repair videos and reckon I can replace it without too much difficulty. Any recommendation on the best video to watch>?
thanks, Cheers, Andy
 
Ok yes Andy, then the new gearcase will fix it.:)

Here's a video good video on how to replace it:



Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
Jake, I have dissembled up to the point of trying to remove the gearcase which seems to be stuck. I have followed the instructions in Steve's video, used some lubricant on the gearcase but I am only able to move it about half an inch or so from the tub and then appears to lock. Is there a step I am missing? have tapped it lightly with a rubber hammer but am unable to break the seal. I am reticent to force it too hard in case I break something. Any advice on how to get the old gearcase out?

thanks, Andy
 
Nope Andy, you will just need to force it.

Jake
 
Jake, sorry to bother you again. I think I am almost there with this saga. I have removed the old gearcase, without damaging anything I hope, except for the tub seal. It seems the cause of my problem was that the seal is stuck to the tub. I got the old gearcase out with WD40 and a heavy hammer. Any advice on the best way to remove the old seal?

Thanks, Andy
 
Here's the tub seal for your model:
Tub Seal W10324647


Watch this video:



Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 
Jake, I was able to get the seal out easily enough by pressing down and replaced everything following the video. Ran recalibration and a couple of cycles, seemed ok. Then the third cycle did not seem to work ok, my wife thought she smelt some burning, but not sure. I ran diagnostics and got error code F7E6 - indicates motor fault.
Seems too much of a coincidence, could I have somehow messed up reinstalling the motor? It is all pretty modular.
thanks, Andy
 
could I have somehow messed up reinstalling the motor?
Possibly, check the installation of it again. Make sure the basket turns freely both ways.

Jake
 
Jake, thanks again, you are being very patient with me.
I rechecked everything and the diagnostics run clean, no errors. I did a recalibration. No more grinding sound, and motor works with all cycles. However, my wife and I feel it is still not washing properly. There appears to be too much water even with small loads. So when it agitates it seems to be ineffective. On a small load, during sensing, it will start and stop the water intake at least 3 times, and the water goes to almost halfway up the tub even on a small load. I have checked the hose to the pressure transducer and the does not seem to be blocked/pinched/crimped. I can blow air through. Though I do not hear any bubbles if I blow air with the hose still connected to dome/chamber.

Sadly, Checking the service manual it seems to indicate I need to replace the main control board. Seems too much of a coincidence that the board goes after I replaced the gearcase (which did address the grinding sound) unless of course I was careless somewhere/somehow.
Any other thoughts? I hear the lead time on a new washer is 3-6 months so anything I can do to patch this up would be great.
Thank you again for your patience and time.
Andy
 
I have checked the hose to the pressure transducer and the does not seem to be blocked/pinched/crimped. I can blow air through. Though I do not hear any bubbles if I blow air with the hose still connected to dome/chamber.
Blow through it with a lot of force, BUT do a SPIN CYCLE FIRST.

Jake
 

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