• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Maytag CWE4800ACB electric wall oven - Neither heating element (bake/broil) will fire

mdord

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Cedar Rapids, IA
Model Number
CWE4800ACB
Brand
Maytag
Age
More than 10 years
Interesting problem. Spent a long time on this and can't figure it out.

  • Neither heating element (bake/broil) will fire
  • Control panel is getting power and turning on, no error codes
  • Tested high limit switch, showing closed as expected
  • Tested individual components on control panel - all relays appear to be okay. Tested by hooking up a 9v power supply and checking for closed. Confirmed all relays working as expected
  • Heating elements both ohm out to roughly as expected. I forget exactly what they were, but I think something around 30 ohms.
  • Temp sensor seems fine - reporting 75 deg and tested to ~1100 ohms
  • Bake/broil/clean all do not cause either element to do anything
  • During operation I can hear the relays firing and the fan powers on like normal
The only thing that makes any sense would be a bad control board, but everything I've tested on it is good. No blown caps, no burn marks, no burnt smell. New boards don't exist for this model, but I'm comfortable working on the board if that's the issue.

Any thoughts?

diagram.PNG

diagram1.PNG
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
2,460
Location
Canada
Has anyone confirmed the full 240 volts is getting to the appliance?
 

mdord

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Cedar Rapids, IA
Has anyone confirmed the full 240 volts is getting to the appliance?
I haven't pulled out the oven yet but would be surprised if it isn't. It's on the same circuit as my range and that's working fine.

If it's only getting one leg, wouldn't the heating elements at least halfway work? I don't see anything in the schematics that would kill everything if the second leg was missing.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
2,460
Location
Canada
I haven't pulled out the oven yet but would be surprised if it isn't. It's on the same circuit as my range and that's working fine.
I suggest you not rely on speculation. Go by actual test results only.

Is it an electric range? Because an electric range and an electric oven should each be on separate electrical circuits, fused separately AFAIK.

mdord said:
If it's only getting one leg, wouldn't the heating elements at least halfway work?
No they wouldn't. They'd only get warm if one leg was good and the other leg was shorted to ground or shorted to neutral thereby making a 120 volt circuit. If one leg was just open, it would make an open circuit ie. NO power.


The wiring diagram you posted is also a different part number than what is called for in the parts list. This one shows a 'double relay' which I believe is this one at the following link. If it failed it could prevent just the elements from heating.

LINK > Dbl Relay 7428P088-60

(The wiring diagram called for by model number does not show that relay being used. The diagram you posted looks like the one on model CWE4800ACS)

Dan O.
 
Last edited:

mdord

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Cedar Rapids, IA
Is it an electric range? Because an electric range and an electric oven should each be on separate electrical circuits, fused separately AFAIK.
It is. Very old house with some interesting wiring choices throughout.


No they wouldn't. They'd only get warm if one leg was good and the other leg was shorted to ground or shorted to neutral thereby making a 120 volt circuit. If one leg was just open, it would make an open circuit ie. NO power.
That makes sense, thanks.

The wiring diagram you posted is also a different part number than what is called for in the parts list. This one shows a 'double relay' which I believe is this one at the following link. If it failed it could prevent just the elements from heating.

LINK > Dbl Relay 7428P088-60

(The wiring diagram called for by model number does not show that relay being used.)

Dan O.
The wiring diagram I posted was the one from behind the panel in the oven. It's the model without the lower oven so I think everything related to the lower oven is supposed to be ignored, which is close to the diagram you posted. Not exact, though, as the contactor for the L2 is present on the board. I don't believe the double relay you linked is anywhere in my model.

I guess I should have phrased my question about the partial power better - if the DLB isn't firing, then the circuit would just have 120 and ground and then you would expect partial power, yes?
1579632814134.png

But if it is firing and not getting any power to the elements, that would be indicative of L2 missing completely - am I getting that right?

Thanks again for all of your help!
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
2,460
Location
Canada
mdord said:
then you would expect partial power, yes?
I don't know what you mean my partial power. If L2 dropped out anything connected between L1 and neutral would still get 120 volts. Anything connected between L1 and L2 (like oven elements) would get 0 (zero) power.

Dan O.
 

mdord

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
5
Location
Cedar Rapids, IA
Started looking through the wiring between the circuit breaker and the appliances.

@Dan O. , as you stated in your first post, the oven wasn't getting 240. Turns out the splices in the junction box were done in a very... interesting way and one of the connections failed. Electrician coming over this morning to install a new circuit to separate the appliances and clean up the shoddy work. Thanks again for all your help!
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
2,460
Location
Canada
mdord said:
as you stated in your first post, the oven wasn't getting 240.
Any time just the elements don't work on an electric range or oven, the power supply to the appliance is be the first thing that should be checked.
 
Top