FIXED Maytag Dryer MEDE300VW1 Does not heat, replaced everything.

[planegm]

Model Number

MEDE300VW1

Brand

Maytag

Age

6-10 years

Hi, I'm miffed. My dryer tumbles ok but does not heat. I have changed out (via a kit) the thermistor, fuse, heat element and circuit board. Still no heat. Verified 110vac on each leg at the dryer terminal. no error codes. no burnt wires. I do have the Tech Sheet.

any suggestions?

 

[jeff1]

Hi,

Verified 110vac on each leg at the dryer terminal

And 220-240 volts across the two lines (black and red)?

My dryer tumbles ok but does not heat. I have changed out (via a kit) the thermistor, fuse, heat element and circuit board. Still no heat.

?Circuit board?
The one in the consol or the one in the dryer body?

replaced everything

Check any thermostats, motor heat switch?

jeff sr.

 

[planegm]

Hmmm, I changed the circuit board on top of the dryer above the tumbler barrel. So I guess the dryer body. Have not changed the console board. I didn't do anything with the motor heat switch as the motor sounds fine with no bearing issues/ odors.

The vent tube is clear to the outside of the house also. (no baby rabbits stuck in there this week) I don't get any voltage in the 220vac range. I checked each leg to neutral and got 110vac.

Thanks for the assist.

 

[jeff1]

Have not changed the console board.

I wouldn't yet.

I didn't do anything with the motor heat switch as the motor sounds fine with no bearing issues/ odors.

Motor heat switch is electrical....mechanism inside the motor trips the motor heat switch.

I don't get any voltage in the 220vac range. I checked each leg to neutral and got 110vac.

And 220-240 volts across the two lines (black and red)?

Go across the 2 legs.

jeff sr.

 

[planegm]

when i do a voltage check across both hot legs, I don't get any "0" voltage reading with my analogue vom. I installed 2 new 30 amp circuit breakers as a precaution. (the originals were 50 years old and I have had several go bad in the phoenix heat)

I pulled the motor and checked the heater switch and it checks out good, meaning when I pull the collar back the circuit closes. I also checked the belt tension switch and it works fine also.

 

[jeff1]

when i do a voltage check across both hot legs, I don't get any "0" voltage reading with my analogue vom. I installed 2 new 30 amp circuit breakers as a precaution.

Then they are on the same leg....2 blacks or 2 reds which = 0 volts and NOT 220-240 volts.

jeff sr.

 

[planegm]

Problem Solved and a lesson learned. A couple of years ago we had and electrician run new 220 wires for a tankless water heater. He put 2 of the circuits on thick 40 amp breakers and 2 of the circuits on thin 40 amp circuit breakers. The thin breakers would trip any time the hot water was turned over a trickle. I finally went out 2 weeks ago and moved breakers around so that I could replace the thin breakers with thick breakers. All worked good with the water heater. A week later the dryer would not heat. hence the request for help. jeff sr. stated above in the post from 8:53 pm yesterday that I needed 220 across both hot legs. I did not know that circuit breaker panels are designed to pick up a right leg and a left leg as they are next to each other. sure enough I moved a thin 20 single breaker one space and that allowed my two 30 amp dryer breakers to pick up a right leg and a left leg of 220. Tested voltage at dryer pig tail and WOW! 220 vac! And the dryer works great! Since I have replaced all the parts listed above, hopefully it is good to go for another 10 years. at 70 yrs old, still learning something new every day. Many Thanks jeff sr.!

 

[jeff1]

Glad it is up and working again
Thankx for the update!

jeff sr.