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Maytag Epic won't start

hopewagner

Member
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
1
Location
galloway oh
Model Number
MED9800TQ0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Panel powers on but when "START" button is pressed nothing happens.

Model MED9800TQ0

Thank You.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,112
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Unplug or disconnect power to the machine and access the electronic control board. Remove the screws in the back of the top panel, then lift the back of the top panel and slide back to remove.

The electronic control board is located on the left side near the top. It's very common for that part to fail. Look on the back side for a burned or scorched mark near the relays.

Measure the resistance between P1-3 and P1-4. If the resistance is between 1-6 ohms, replace the control board. If not check the belt switch for continuity.

Check the motor windings at the motor switch. Disconnect the motor connector. Measure the run/main windings between the blue wire in back and the white/orange wire (2.4-3.6 Ohms). Measure the start windings between the blue wire in back and the Violette wire (2.4-3.8 Ohms).

Lift the idler pulley up and measure between the two blue wires to check the belt switch.

Whirlpool Dryer Motor Wires.jpg

Here's the control board for your model you can order if needed(Video Included):
Whirlpool 8546219 Control Board - AppliancePartsPros.com


Keep us posted.

Jake
 

Kevin L

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2014
Messages
1
Location
Canada
Great to the point advice

I wanted to thank you for this post as it enabled me to get started on my own repairs of the same problem. I also wanted to add a couple of comments. First when I originally did the P1-3 to P1-4 test, I tested out at infinite ohms and because that was not in the 1 - 6 ohm range I assumed I was OK and went on. I then ohmed out the motor and the belt switch and those were both fine, so I started going through the wiring diagram when it dawned on me that it mattered in the p1-3 to p1-4 ohm test that the door had to be closed in order to get a proper reading. So first comment is the manual might say make sure the door is closed. Once I closed the door I had a reading of 2.4 ohms so I was pretty sure the control board was bad, so I removed it to see if I could see any burn marks etc. from a burned out motor relay. This is when I got lucky. What I found instead was a bad solder (almost missing) joint on the board right at the relay where it goes over to the motor. A quick resolder job and of course putting my machine back together and I was back in business with no cost other than my own labor. Prior to checking the motor control board I had already checked the thermal fuse and dampness sensor and knew they were working. Thanks Jake for an excellent thread. I bet you have helped allot of people fix their dryer.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,112
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Good job Kevin.:)

Jake
 
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