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FIXED Maytag MAH3000AWW, ocassionally won't drain/spin

docmag

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
Model Number
MAH3000AWW
Brand
Maytag
Age
More than 10 years
I have an early model Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW S/N 25117482UM.
The problem I'm currently having and have for quite sometime is occassionally on the final drain/spin cycle it doesn't drain. It still spins but at a much reduced speed and you can hear the water in there.

Here's what's been done to this Machine since ownership
Purchased 7/98

November 2000 had to replace upper control board (120.00) Maytag said three months out of warranty, your on your own. Didn't know about the wax motor issue and R11 which was burnt on original board. Repair was done by non Maytag repairman.

March 2003 called Maytag as machine would not work and they referred me to Maytag repairman. He diagnosed bad lower motor control board and door latch mechanisim(had old wax motor). He ended up replacing the lower motor control board and motor (351.00). At this time he tells me why my upper control board needed replaced(bad wax motor). He also tells me there is a vent kit to correct the door mold issue, covered by Maytag. I tell him I want my machine fixed. He proceeds to replace the door boot gasket, the inner door covering, upper control board and door latch (200.00). After repairs up and running. Aftert hese repairs the machine spins faster than it did prior to this repair. The Maytag repairman told me that the new lower motor control board and motor were upgraded/redesigned by Maytag and that's the reason. I asked him why he didn't use my old motor, he also said that they had to be replaced together. They were specifically designed to work together. Nice side effect clothes come out drier and take less time and energy to dry.

Sometime during 2006-07 I notice it's louder than usual when it spins. Sound like a jetliner. Call the Maytag repairman and he informs me it's the bearings and the repair would be 500.00+. I was told the bearings weren't replaceable and the whole outer tub would need replaced. I told him I'd use it until it failed and by a new washing machine but it wouldn't be a Maytag. I wasn't going to throw more money at this thing, or so I thought.

November 2008 tired of mold on second door boot gasket and small amount of water appears to be coming through the gasket and leaving a water spot on the basement floor. I call the appliance repairman, not Maytag, and have the door boot gasket replaced (120.00) I also had him check the pump as I read that is something was in it , it would cause the drain/spin issue, nothing found.

January 2009 door gasket still leaks, call appliance repairman that installed the third boot in November 2008 and he comes out and "fixes" it. His repair, silicone. Still leaks and now it won't turn off. Goes through all the cycles in about ten minutes. He managed to burn up my upper control board with his last repair/test. I've had enough and finally decide to research this machine and decide to replace the door boot gasket myself. Open it up and there is water in the bottom of the machine. Think to myself, this can't all be from the door gasket. Further research on the net and of the machine itself leads me to bad bearings(which I knew) and seal and a bunch more. I decide after learning that the bearings were replaceable to repair the machine myself. I find someone to repair my upper control board that got burned up(timer triac). Had him replace all known weak points of the board and got a new wax motor at the same time (80.00). I order a bearings and seal kit and two more wax motors(for bleach and softner dispensers) (110.00) and another door boot gasket (60.00).

In the meantime while waiting for the parts I installed the control board I purchased in 2000, it was still good, to see if I can get by until all the ordered parts came. I notice that the final spin isn't as fast and the clothes came out damper. Also have occassional no drain/spin with this board. With the increased final spin speed with the other board I figure there must be some difference in the boards? I was able to do laundry that's all that counted at this point.

February 2009 I've got all the parts and decide to tackle the repair. I didn't rent the Tony tool as I thought the deposit ahead of time was a little excessive and didn't have the funds to float. I reason I can figure it out on my own, I'm mechanically inclined. I did figure it out but took longer to accomplish. Anyway I tear the machine apart(downloaded the online manual and printed it off) and man was it gunked up and moldy. Cleaned everything up and installed the bearings and seal. I Installed the repaired upper control board and new wax motor(even though the one in there had the black shaft) in the door latch assembly. Also replaced the bleach and softner dispenser wax motors. Install the new door boot gasket and put the machine back together. In all it took about five hours. Learning curve, this was my first ever washing machine repair.

Do three loads of laundry and all seemed great. Fourth load done I open the door and water sitting in the bottom of the tub. Manually turn the timer to #3 rinse and let it go ang it works fine, drains and spins.

Do further research that leads me to believe possibly the door latch wax motor isn't engaging the spin enable switch so I run the machine with the top loose so I can keep an eye on it. Run two more loads and seems fine. Run a third load but this time I was unable to watch the wax motor, open the machine, water in the bottom. I manually get the machine to drain and spin. I have since washed four loads with loose top, observing and it's worked fine.

I know this post is lengthy but I thought a complete background would help.

So what would cause this machine to occassionally not drain on the last drain/spin cycle? I'm not going to let this machine beat me. TIA Pete
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
111,937
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It sounds like the "repaired" main control board is still the issue with it being intermittent like that Pete.

As many know here, I'm not a fan of repairs done to that main control board, I know its much cheaper to repair it than replace it, but this is sometimes the outcome, resulting in the machine still working, but acting up at times.

Did you read this thread here about the main control board: Maytag MAH3000AWW will not turn off

Jake
 

docmag

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
Jake I read through the links you provided. I find it hard to believe two control boards cause the same issue. The one I purchased new in 2000 and the repaired board. Not saying it doesn't happen, but how likely? How do I know which version of the main board I need? Serial number of my unit is 25117482UM. At 200.00+ it's quite a gamble . Most electronics once installed are non returnable. I'd hate to spend ANOTHER 200.00+ on this money pit and the control board not be the culiprit. I still have the original(one that was in the machine when purchased) repaired board. It was repaired due to R11 burn out dur to old style wax motor. Maybe I should try that one and see. The reason I haven't put it in is the final spin isn't as fast as with the replacement(2003), repaired board. Another reason I haven't switched it is that the Maytag repairman said that the bords and motor were all matched and needed to be installed at the same time. Is that correct? As I stated in the original post in 2003 he installed new lower motor control board, motor, latch and upper control board. After these "upgrades" is when my machine spun at the higher speed extracting more water and requiring less drying time. TIA Pete
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Pete,

Here is your machine control board you can order:
Main Control Board WP22002988


We have a special return program here when you order parts from our links or banners on our site, if you install it and let it run for awhile through some loads and if you find that its still doing the same thing, you have 365 days to return it for a FULL refund, less shipping.:)

They have made multiple upgrades to that control board for the past couple years as well, so its likely what will fix your Neptune for good.

Jake
 

docmag

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
Is it possible that something is wrong with the motor control board causing this issue? I have the original motor and motor control board with a burned out fuse. Would it be worth it to put a new 10amp fuse in there and have as a backup? Thank for your help and advice. Pete
 

Jake

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No, its not likely the motor board or motor.

Jake
 

docmag

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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
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Location
MO
What usually causes the motor control board fuse to fail?

Pete
 

Jake

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A bad motor board or motor usually causes the motor board fuse to fail.

Jake
 

docmag

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Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
Jake,
I really appreciate all the time and effort you are putting forth to help me figure out this problem. Tonight I was finally in front of the machine when it wouldn't drain.
I periodically would check on it during the cycles to ensure the wax motor was engaged. I started the machine and waited until the door lock light came on and checked the wax motor for engagment, it was. I left it to run and came down on the second fill/drain/ spin cycle but apparently got there on the drain cycle because all I heard was a little humming noise coning from the drain pump. it finished the second cycle and went to the third but because the water didn't drain it did not fill. It did go through all third cycle once again not draining only the humming noise coming from the drain pump. It attempted to spin but didn't get up to speed. I'm sure because of the water still in the tub.
Usually I open the door to find the water sitting there and manually advance the timer to the #3 wash/drain/spin and let it go and it does what it's supposed to. This time however I did not open the door(lights were off) and manually turned the timer only to find out the machine was still energized. I continued to the #3 cycle and it started to drain although the on light and door locked light never came on. Of course I checked the wax motor and it was not engaged therefore it did not spin. Once the timer advanced to the off position I opened the door, shut it and manually advanced the timer to the #3 position and pressed the start button. The light came on, the tub filled the door locked and the machine did what it was supposed to do.
To me it sounds like either the drain pump isn't working properly or it's not getting the information or full voltage to energize and drain properly. I'm deducing this reasoning due to the humming noise.
So where does the information come from to tell the pump to drain or is it possible the pump is bad?
Thanks Pete
 

Jake

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Well, when it does drain, or when you put it in the drain cycle manually, does it drain all the water out completely within 90 seconds?

If so, then your drain pump sounds fine, the intermittentsy in the drain pump is more likely coming from mis-information from the main control board.

Jake
 

docmag

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
From the start of the draining process to the spin it takes approximately 2:20-2:25. It starts off as a slow drain for the first 1:30 then a fast drain for the remainder of the time. The drain time was almost the same(5 seconds longer in drain cycle #3) in cycle #2 and cycle #3. Pete
 

Jake

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What? Thats way too long.

Have you pulled your drain hose out of your drain pipe and watched the water flow out when its draining? It should be a good strong flow out.

You may need to order the drain pump.
Drain Pump WP22003059


Jake
 

docmag

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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
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Location
MO
Yes I have watched it and the initial 90 seconds it's slow the last approx 35 seconds it's FAST!! I've ordered a new pump AND control board. I'm going to install the pump, see what happens then if needed install the NEW control board. I'm going to ask the individual I purchased the board from(84.95) if I don't open the package if I can return it for a 80% refund. I think I know the answer but it can't hurt to ask. Going to remove the pump tomight and check it out. Pete
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good Pete.

Yes, keep us posted.

Jake
 

docmag

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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
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Location
MO
Jake I just took the pump out and inspected it. No obstructions and spins freely. I'm still awaiting the new pump and upon arrival will install it. Is it possible that since the timer instructs the pump when to drain that it may be causing the delayed drain time? Just thinking and trying to figure things out. Pete
 

Jake

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Yes, because there shouldn't be any delayed drain time, it should drain all at once.

Jake
 

Jake

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No, why would you say that?

Just wait till your parts come to see if that solves the problem.:)

The main control board controls the drain pump and the timer.:)

Jake
 

docmag

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
13
Location
MO
Well Jake I thought watching paint dry was boring but, I think watching a washer go through it's wash/drain cycles runs a close second. I got the new drain pump yesterday and installed it this morning. There were no wire connection instructions with it and the spades were side by side instead of one on top of the other like the original pump. Not sure if it makes a difference on what wire is connected to what spade. There was a red dot by one of the spades if that means anything. The two connectors going to the pump have one with one blck wire and one connector with two yellow wires.

Here are the the results of from the first load run through the washer with the new pump. I did a "quick" load. The first drain took 3:30, the second drain took 2:20, the third drain took 2:20 and the final drain before the max extract spin took 3:30. Thie initial drain flow of water in all drain cycles was fast. I don't think the drain pump was the issue. I left the machine washing a second load that I will check at noon to see if it drained and spun as it should. I plan on running about ten loads in the next three days. Hopefully it will drain and spin successfully with all the loads. I still have the new control board but don't want to install it if it is not necessary. Time will tell. We'll see what happens. I'll keep you posted. Pete
 

Jake

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Ok, thanks Pete for the update, yes they have re-modified that drain pump.

Remember all parts purchased through our site comes with a 365 day FULL refund, so if you install that main control board and it doesn't fix the problem, you will get your money back when you return it.

Jake
 
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