FIXED Maytag MDB4949SKZ won't finish cycle, error F9 E1

[powrtek]

Model Number

MDB4949SKZ

Brand

Maytag

Age

1-5 years

About three weeks ago, my 1.5-year-old dishwasher started occasionally not finishing wash cycles (normal wash with heated dry). It would get most of the way through and then start singing and flashing E9 F1. If I started it again, it would usually go all the way through. The instances of finishing the whole cycle diminished steadily until it no longer would go through a whole cycle at all. It would get through what I think is the pre-wash step and then throw the error instead of draining (the main detergent compartment is still closed at this point). If I hit the cancel button to drain it, it would empty, but slowly--sometimes I'd have to press the drain button several times to empty it completely. I did the following:

1. Unplugged it and plugged it back in
2. Checked the drain hose for blockages (it was clear)
3. Cleaned all the filters I could from inside the dishwasher, including those I had to unscrew to remove--also checked the drainage hole at the bottom of the inside of the dishwasher, which was not blocked. The filters had some gunk in them but definitely not enough to stop it from draining.
4. Removed, disassembled, and cleaned out the pump. There was more stuff stuck inside the pump than I expected, but again, did not seem like enough to keep it from draining.

After reinstalling the cleaned pump, the dishwasher went through a quick wash with no issues. When I tried a normal wash next, it went through both washing stages but threw the error at the end and did not dry. When I hit the drain button, it drained with no problem. I ran it again today on a normal cycle and it only got to the end of the prewash step. Again, drained just fine when I hit the button.

At this point I'm not sure what else to try. I'm confident I can replace the control board if necessary, but given the cost, I'd rather not do that without knowing if it's actually the problem. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Jake]

Ok, there are a couple other people with this same error code F9 E1

Look through these threads:

FIXED - Maytag Dishwasher MODEL # MDB4949SKZ won't drain and is throwing codes.

So, last July I purchased a Maytag Dishwasher Model #MDB4949SKZ. Last week it was running and all the sudden it just stopped and it started to beep. If I recall, the codes it threw were F9 and E1(I think). I opened the door and the bottom was filled with water. I got out my handy shop vac...

www.applianceblog.com

Here's our main thread on it, I posted the service bulletin in post #14:

FIXED - MDB8959SKB0 Maytag Dishwasher Grinding Noise

My dishwasher started what I can only describe as a "grinding" noise, about 10 minutes or so into a cycle when I think it is draining. The cycle continues for a minute or two, and then stops with error code F9 E1 (drain pump system problem - long drain). I checked the lines and nothing is stuck...

www.applianceblog.com

Here's the drain pump for your model: W11497943

 

[powrtek]

Thanks Jake, unfortunately neither of those threads address the exact problem I'm having. As far as I can tell there's nothing wrong with the pump itself; I saw no damage or fractures anywhere on the pump, and everything I cleaned out of it was food matter, no metal or plastic pieces. All the wire harnesses looked fine and were firmly connected.

I attempted to follow the technical manual's instructions for troubleshooting the drain motor. I do have a multimeter but I'm not well versed in electrical matters. Since I'm not confident I was checking the correct areas, I've attached pictures.

I checked the ohms at the pump itself, which was 32.8. I checked the ohms at the control board connector (I had to guess which connector was P5 since they're not labeled--the brown wires are the ones I checked as they're the same color that goes to the pump) and it was between 31 and 33 pretty consistently. I wasn't able to check the voltage on the control board because I couldn't figure out where the test pads were and didn't want to start poking random things on the board. Can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Jake]

Yes, P5 Pins 3 and 4 brown wires are the drain pump power wires. I'm attaching your tech data sheet below that shows you that too.

You can also take the electrical connector off the drain pump and test those 2 brown wires there too for 120 volts.

 

[powrtek]

Thanks for that tip, I ran the diagnostic cycle again with my multimeter on the brown wires at the drain pump and it was receiving 120 volts when the error went off. So now I'm even more confused! If the pump is not clogged or damaged, is showing the correct ohms, and is getting the correct voltage, where does the problem lie?

I also just noticed that there's now a blinking green light on the control board that I'm pretty sure wasn't there before.

 

[Jake]

Well, like I mentioned in those other threads:

Maytag Dishwasher--->Stuck Drain, F9E1 Error Code
Possible Concern:
It is possible that consumers may experience slow or no drain, a noisy pump, or a dishwasher that does not complete a cycle. Customers may also see a F9E1 error code (for display models), Blinking Clean Light (for non display models) and/or that the pump does not fully drain out the water. There are multiple potential causes and corrections.
Correction:
Check all possible causes including:
--->Pump with metal or plastic impeller cracks
--->Pump low or high ohms readings
--->Pump disconnected
--->Control board electrical problem
--->Wire harness connection or routing between the ACU and pump damaged
--->Drain clogged by unknown-blockage or debris

1. Disconnect power from the appliance.
2. Remove the retained water by sponging out the tub and sump with a sponge and bucket.
3. Next, uninstall the pump.
4. Inspect for traces of the pump’s components.
5. Any pieces recovered/ collected from the pump, lay them next to the uninstalled pump and compare the pieces to the image below. This is a precaution to prevent any close to false subsequent events of a stuck drain.

Another person had this same problem, here's our main thread on it:

FIXED - MDB8959SKB0 Maytag Dishwasher Grinding Noise

My dishwasher started what I can only describe as a "grinding" noise, about 10 minutes or so into a cycle when I think it is draining. The cycle continues for a minute or two, and then stops with error code F9 E1 (drain pump system problem - long drain). I checked the lines and nothing is stuck...

www.applianceblog.com

Here's the drain pump for your model: W11497943

But you are saying your drain pump is working great? No grinding noise? Water flows out fast from it?

 

[powrtek]

Yes, as I said I have checked all those items to the best of my ability, and the pump still runs, just not during a wash cycle. There have never been any grinding or other noises out of the ordinary. I don't know how fast a flow is normal but it when it works, it doesn't seem too slow.

When I hit the drain button, one of three things happens:

1. There's some noise of the pump running, but no water drains (this is maybe 10% of the time)
2. The pump runs and some water drains, but not all of it, and I have to push the drain button again
3. The pump runs and drains all the water from the dishwasher on the first try

I'd say 2 and 3 happen at roughly even rates with each other.

 

[Jake]

1. There's some noise of the pump running, but no water drains (this is maybe 10% of the time)
2. The pump runs and some water drains, but not all of it, and I have to push the drain button again

If your drain hose is clear and clean and not kinked and you have no air gap device in your sink plumbing, then its a bad drain pump my friend. Replace it and you will be back in business.

Or if you think I'm incorrect, contact Maytag to come out to confirm it first, because I'm not perfect, 2 heads are better than 1.

 

[powrtek]

Appreciate the help--rather not call out Maytag if there's a chance I can fix it myself. The part you linked says it's the chopper, is that all I need? Not an entire new pump? Also, do you happen to have a link to the clamps used for the hoses that come off the pump? I had to cut them when I removed the pump and couldn't find the same stepless ones at the hardware store. The ones I used instead are a bit leaky, I think they're wider than the originals and I'm afraid I may have damaged the hose as well.

 

[Jake]

Drain chopper(aka drain pump) is correct.

Its also here: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/W11497943/4960223

Also, do you happen to have a link to the clamps used for the hoses that come off the pump? I had to cut them when I removed the pump and couldn't find the same stepless ones at the hardware store. The ones I used instead are a bit leaky, I think they're wider than the originals and I'm afraid I may have damaged the hose as well.

I always just use standard radiator clamps, you can get from any hardware store. Like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-TRIDON-1-in-to-3-in-dia-Stainless-Steel-Adjustable-Clamp/1001057366

 

[powrtek]

Thanks Jake. Those are the clamps I used but I think I didn't tighten the lower one all the way since the placement was a little tricky. I managed to tighten it down some more and it no longer leaks.

But more importantly, I replaced the chopper and the dishwasher has now gone through two cycles with zero issues. I greatly appreciate the help!

 

[Jake]

Excellent @powrtek glad to hear the new Drain chopper(aka drain pump) fixed it.

Thanks for the update!