FIXED Maytag MDE5500AYW won't start

2mbb

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Messages
13
Location
California
Model Number
MDE5500AYW
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Kids were doing their laundry and my son comes out and say's the dryer won't start. The lights and LEDs seem to work. I can depress the door switch and the interior light goes out and the "do" on the display disappears. When I press the start button, the green start light cycle between solid on and blinking. When I press the stop button the green start light goes out. I checked continuity on both thermal fuses and they both seemed good. Any other suggestions?
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
101,445
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Do all the buttons on the control panel respond when you press them?

Look in your console, there will be a tech. sheet that has troubleshooting diagnostics in it.

The back panel of your console just has about 4 screws to remove it.

Its possibly the control panel or control board that's malfunctioning also look for burnt spots on the control board. Unplug or turn the breaker off to your dryer first!

Jake
 

2mbb

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Messages
13
Location
California
Thanks, Jake. All the buttons on the control panel do seem to work/respond, but I have not done any of the button diagnostics yet. I did remove the door switch to check continuity, and it seemed to be working OK...until I dropped it, and then I was getting inconsistent results. So I will replace the switch either way and report back. Thanks for the help!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
101,445
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, sounds good.

Also, Unplug your dryer, and pull it out from the wall and remove the metal cover where your power cord connects to your dryer and see if any of the 3 wires have burned.

Look at this from another member with this same model:
(click to enlarge)
IMG_1195.jpg

Here's the terminal block for your model:
WP33001244 Block, Terminal


If no wires are burnt off, then if you have a multimeter test for 240 volts on the outer two terminals, the middle is neutral. Just want to make sure we are getting proper voltage to the machine, remember to unplug your dryer after testing for 240 volts.:)

If no wires are burnt off, and your getting 240 volts to the two outer terminals on the terminal block, and If the door switch doesn't fix it, There should be a diagnostic test that says "membrane pad check" see if that one passes or fails. If it passes then the control board is bad. If it fails then the control panel is bad.

The control board for your model is No Longer Available, its been discontinued from the factory.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
101,445
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, glad to hear that.:)

Here's the door switch for this model in case others need it too:
W10169313 Dryer Door Switch Kit


Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

2mbb

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Messages
13
Location
California
So this same dryer stopped working again with the same symptoms. I checked the new door switch and it is good. I also checked the two thermal fuses and they seem OK. As I was testing things out, I did get power to the motor when pressing the start button, but the drum didn't turn. The motor hummed for a few seconds then "click" and it stopped. I assume this is the motor overload protector. Once the circuit is opened, will it close again to allow the motor to run?

I took the drum out and found that the motor would run fine (I guess) without any load. I did find a roller that was a little tight, so I put some oil on it. I put it back together, and the dryer is working again...but I don't know for how long.

I was thinking about replacing the belt (it seems brittle) and maybe the rollers. Is there any other suggestion? Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
101,445
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, what happens is when the drum gets harder to turn, like you mentioned your roller not spinning freely, it makes the motor pull more amps and shut down.

Yes, I would get 2 new rollers for it, and the idler pulley, and belt while you have it apart. Also check your front bearing pads to make sure they are not worn down too.

When you click the link to each part below, there are HOW TO videos to replace the parts.

Here's the dryer drum roller for your model(order 2):
Manufacturer Number 12001541


Here's the idler pulley for your model:
Manufacturer Number WP6-3700340


Here's the belt for your model:
Manufacturer Number WP33002535


Here's the bearing pad kit for your model you can order:
Manufacturer Number 306508


Jake
 
Top