FIXED Maytag MEDC200XW3 timer and heat issues

[homebrewdad]

Model Number

MEDC200XW3

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

This is an old dryer - a good twenty years, I'd guess, if not a tad more. But I hate to get rid of it, as it's easy to work on and just WORKS.

Earlier this week, we discovered that it wasn't shutting off - it would run to the end of a cycle (timed dry or auto) but run indefinitely in the "cool down" stage. That was annoying, but not the end of the world. Now, it has stopped heating altogether on any setting.

I took the dryer apart and cleaned a ton of lint from inside the lint chase, the exhaust fan, and all around the inside of the cabinet. My ductwork to outside is in good shape in terms of just a little lint, no blockages. I was hoping this would resolve the issue, but alas, it does not.

It feels like the timer must need to be replaced - it does advance, but it never ends. The lack of heat is obviously the dealbreaker.

What do I troubleshoot here? Is it worthwhile to go ahead and pre-emptively replace a few different parts in one fell swoop?

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Dan O.]

Is it worthwhile to go ahead and pre-emptively replace a few different parts in one fell swoop?

That will be up to you to decide but it isn't the way to go about repairing an appliance IMO.

What do I troubleshoot here?

Try it again at the start of a timed cycle. Check again to confirm the timer still advances prior to the cool down portion of the cycle. Timer movement and no heat may be related.


Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the input. On a timed cycle, the timer advances, but never finishes. The heat doesn't kick on at all.

 

[Dan O.]

On a timed cycle, the timer advances, but never finishes.

I know you stated that. How many times did you try? Did you try it again after it stopped heating?

I asked you to double check it to be certain what is happening now. It is an important clue to a possible cause. Please try it again at the start of a timed setting and report if the timer ever advances now.


Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

I know you stated that. How many times did you try? Did you try it again after it stopped heating?

Hi Dan,

I'm reporting to you exactly what it is doing NOW. I understood that me reporting what it was doing prior to me tinkering isn't helpful.

I've run the dryer through two entire timed (70 minute) cycles, checking it several times. At no point has it been hot inside. It hits the end of the cycle and just runs forever.

 

[Dan O.]

At no point has it been hot inside. It hits the end of the cycle and just runs forever.

Than you may have several problems. I suggest looking into the timer advancing problem first. Someone will need to test for continuity between timer contacts TM and TB while the timer is at cool down position on a timed setting. That contact needs to be closed for the timer to advance.

LINK > MEDC200XW3 Dryer Timer


Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

Someone will need to test for continuity between timer contacts TM and TB while the timer is at cool down position on a timed setting. That contact needs to be closed for the timer to advance.

LINK > MEDC200XW3 Dryer Timer

Good old multimeter should do the trick, yes?

Advance the timer to the cool down stage, then test the continuity. How do I find those leads?

 

[Dan O.]

Good old multimeter should do the trick, yes?

Yes.

LINK > Appliance411 FAQ: How do I test for continuity?

How do I find those leads?

Each terminal on the timer is marked.

. (Click to zoom)



Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

Thanks. I'll drag it back out tomorrow and check.

 

[Dan O.]

The heater circuit looks to switch through the timer from BK to R. You could check those contacts for closure when not in cool-down mode. It's pretty unlikely to be the cause of the heat issue but while you're there...

 

[homebrewdad]

I see the TM contact. I see a T contact. I see a B contact.

I see V, R, WR, WB. I don't see a TB anywhere.

Where am I being dumb?

 

[homebrewdad]

i also see R, BK, BU. Still no TB.

For grins, I tested between TM and T, also TM and B. Both measure a flat 0.

 

[homebrewdad]

The heater circuit looks to switch through the timer from BK to R. You could check those contacts for closure when not in cool-down mode. It's pretty unlikely to be the cause of the heat issue but while you're there...

I get resistance between BK and R.

 

[Dan O.]

I see V, R, WR, WB. I don't see a TB anywhere.

Sorry, that was a typo. Contact between TM and WB should have continuity on a timed cycle at cool down for the timer to advance.

I get resistance between BK and R.

That's good. It was only a slight possibility of being the cause of the heating problem.


Dan

 

[homebrewdad]

I get 0.7 on TM and WB.

 

[Dan O.]

I get 0.7 on TM and WB.

I don't know what that means. If the meter is set to resistance it should read 0 ohms between those terminals on the lowest ohm scale. If set on continuity, it should either read open or closed. I don't know how your meter would display those conditions.

BTW. The wires from at least one of the terminals should be removed before testing or you may read a backfeed from the rest of the circuit..


Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

The wires are disconnected. On the lowest resistance setting (mine has 2M ohm, 200k Ohm, 20k Ohm, 2k Ohm, 200 Ohm - I set it to 200 Ohm), it jumps from a reading of 0L in the air (or when pressing the leads to items that I know have no connection) to roughly 0.7 on these two leads. Definitely not zero.

 

[Dan O.]

Check the same contacts when the timer is in a timed cycle but before the cool down portion and compare the two readings.


Dan O.

 

[homebrewdad]

Thanks for the ongoing help, Dan. Moving the timer back to the middle of the cycle - i.e. during the heat section - the readings are virtually identical.

 

[Dan O.]

Than I'm afraid I have no idea why the timer isn't advancing on cool down. The only possibilities I can see is the dryer wasn't getting 240 volts (which would affect all timer movement AND the heat) or that timer contact is bad at that point in the cycle. In the later case its reading should be different than during the rest of the cycle when it advances.

If you want to move onto the no heat issue, the thermostats and the thermal cut-off need to be tested as well as the heater element

LINK > High Limit Thermostat & Thermal Cut-Off Kit

LINK > MEDC200XW3 Cycling Thermostat

LINK > MEDC200XW3 Dryer Element


Dan O.