FIXED Maytag MEDE300VW0 3000 series dryer, still no heat.

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Retina400

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Location
Lynchburg, VA
Model Number
MEDE300VW0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Hi! I have a Maytag model MEDE300VW0, and it is often not heating. So far, I have replaced the thermistor on the blower housing, the fuse at the element, and the heating element itself with no results. The main thermostat and final fuse tested with fine continuity with a multimeter. Sadly, the dryer still won't heat. I'm at my wits end. I wonder if it's the moisture sensor, but I tested that with the computer's diagnostic mode and it beeped when I held a wet sponge to it. All the vents are clear. The dryer might be 10? years old. Not sure. It has never displayed an error code. The breaker is a 240 double breaker, so it can't be half on and half off. I'm beginning to think it might be the computer. What's going on here?

One thing it is doing differently since replacing the element/fuse is appears to be skipping the "dryness sensing" time as indicated by the light above where it displays what drying stage it's in. It used to stay on for a minute, now just a brief second.
 

Jake

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Hi, Do you have a multimeter?

If your dual breaker is not tripped, then pull your dryer out from the wall, then unplug it, then check your terminal block where your power cord connects to.

I see that happen a lot too, look here:
(click to enlarge)
FriedWires.jpg


If you see no broken wires at the terminal block, then The first thing I always do is use my multimeter to do a volt test at the dryer terminal block, where the power cord connects to it.

First make sure your getting 230-240 volts at the terminal block in the back of your dryer. The outer wires are hot, middle wire is neutral. So put your volt meter probes on each of the two outer wires at the terminal block and see what your meter reads, you should get 230-240 volts between the two outer wires on the terminal block.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Retina400

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Well, I'm getting 240 at the terminal block at the back of the dryer, but lemme go unplug it and check the wires coming out of it and into the control panel, etc. I see in your pic they can sometimes corrode.
It might be a superfluous since the dryer is definitely getting 240V, but I noticed at my breaker box that the breaker directly above the dryer one is hot to the touch (too hot to leave my finger on it). It also makes a crackle sound. It's a 120 that supplies the power to most of the air conditioners in the house, I believe. It also looks strangely oily, possibly due to the electrical tape all over the hot wire leaving it. Might be melting the glue. This will need to be replaced, for sure.
 

Jake

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Ok, Yes, do check the wiring at the dryer terminal block where the dryer cord attaches to.

If that's fine and your meter reads 240 there, next unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and look at the back side of the control board and see if there is a burned spot by the heater relay. It's located on the left side panel near the top.

Here's the control board for your model:
Main Control Board WPW10174745


Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, looks good. I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

ELECTRIC DRYER--->DOES NOT HEAT
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.

2. Remove the toe panel to access the thermal components. See Removing the Toe Panel, page 9.
3. Using an ohmmeter and referring to the wiring diagram, measure the resistance from the red wire terminal at the thermal cut-off to the red wire terminal at the heater.
If the resistance is about 10 Ω, go to step 5.
If an open circuit is detected, go to step 4.
4. Visually check the wire connections to the thermal cut-off, high limit thermostat, and heater. If connections look good, check for continuity across each of these components.
Replace the heater if it is electrically open.
Replace both the thermal cut-off and inlet thermistor/high limit thermostat assembly if either the thermal cut-off or the high limit thermostat is electrically open.
5. If no open circuit is detected, remove the P4 connector, then measure the resistance between P4-3 (red wire) and P4-6 (red wire) at the connector. See figure 17, page 10, for connector location; and Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, page 9.
If 5–15 kΩ are measured, replace the machine control electronics.
If the resistance is less than 1 kΩ, replace the outlet thermistor.

Let us know the results.

Jake
 

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Retina400

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Still working on this dryer... I'm puzzled by the resistance reading I got from testing the board from...******. No one loves me. I'll be back.

No profanity please
 
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Retina400

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Sorry, yesterday I was getting a bit distracted from the task at hand. I deeply appreciate the help I've been getting. Anyway, I was following the step you had shown in bold above, and only got a resistance reading when the P4 connector was plugged in. When the connector is removed, it only read "1." The picture here is of the reading with the P4 connector plugged in, so I'm not sure if it's even valid, or if I'm even reading it properly b/c I'm a bit of a dunce electrician. So, is it telling me to replace the computer? I need to know so I can order this expensive thing. Ugh. What a mess.
20190820_163859.jpg
 

Jake

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remove the P4 connector, then measure the resistance between P4-3 (red wire) and P4-6 (red wire) at the connector.

Ok, so with the P4 connector REMOVED the resistance between P4-3 and P4-6, you show 1K ohm? or your meter doesn't change numbers?

You are putting your meter probes inside that REMOVED P4 connector between P4-3 and P4-6 right?

Jake
 

Retina400

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Ahhhh, no I wasn't testing the wires themselves, I thought it was getting me to test the board. Lemme see what the wires themselves read.
 

Retina400

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Okay, so the wires P4-3 and P4-6 have a resistance right around 10 kohms, with the meter set to the 20K setting. Looks like it's is definitely the control board, according to the data sheet. I'm still vexed as to how the resistance between these wires can tell us the board is bad when they are no longer plugged into the board. Seems insane, right?
 

Jake

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The wires from P4-3 and P4-6 goes to your OUTLET THERMISTOR, go that ohms fine at 10k ohms.

Yes, order the control board, that should fix it.:)

Jake
 

Retina400

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Okeey dokey! Part ordered. I'll let you know how it went, Jake! I appreciate your help. It's been tough, lately, and I appreciate your patience.
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.:)

Jake
 

Retina400

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Jake, thank you so much for your advice. You got me on the right track and the control board I put in the other day worked like a dream. Thank you
 

Jake

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Excellent Retina400, glad to hear the new control board fixed it. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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