• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Maytag MER8800FZ1 Electric Range Not Preheating After Broiler Burned Out

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Model Number
MER8800FZ1
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Hello Everyone, just joined the forum, looking for some help on my less than 3 year old Maytag Oven. About a week ago the girlfriend was making a casserole and turned on the broiler, a few moments later, it sounded like arcing and the broilers blew out. I shut the oven off, to let it cool. I say the broil element has an obvious blow out, No big deal, I thought, I'll get a new element. The breaker didn't trip when it happened, but I did reset it, just in case.


I called Maytag, they wouldn't send me a part, needed to pay $140 for a Technician for a $50 part to be warrantied.


Well, I ordered a new Broiler element (Part Number W11321472). I installed it, The oven doesn't seem to pre-heat. After about 20 minutes, it will get to about 200*F. I tried the power pre heat and it does not appear the broiler even turned on.

Neither element gets red hot. I checked, the oven has the appropriate voltage coming into the back of it to the junction block. Each leg of the broiler has 120V to it, as does each leg of the Oven Heating Element, (I used the negative from the 240V junction block to the spade connector on each side of both the broiler and heating element, if this is an incorrect way to check, please let me know). The oven clicks a lot, when the fan turs on an off, although, I really can't tell if that's unusual. I never really listened all the closely to it before.

I initially thought when it popped, it must for some reason be only getting 120V. Any thoughts on what I should do next as far as troubleshooting?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Put your meter leads on each BROIL element terminal and tell us what it reads when you have BROIL ON. Normal would be 240 volts.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, exactly.

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Checking it that way, there is no voltage. I checked Broil, bake, and power bake. Neither the broiler element nor the heater element shows voltage.

To check my meter, I checked the taps for the plug , i do get 122V 1 pole to the ground, and 243V across both. So the Volt Meter works. I also checked the fan circuit when it starts to spin, 122V.

So I'm interpreting this as the control board isn't outputing any voltage. I've attached a photo of the board. Is there some circuit breaker or fuse in it that I'm not seeing? I'm hoping the control board didn't blow up....


In the picture with the Circles, the yellow is the broil element, , the great is the oven element, and the Orange is Unknown to me. When the fan kicks on, the orange prongs will recieve 122V and shut off when the fan shuts off. I believe this is probably how the oven is heating up to about 170*F.

Let me know if you need any more information.
 

Attachments

  • 20210111_235443.jpg
    20210111_235443.jpg
    252.5 KB · Views: 7
  • 20210112_001530.jpg
    20210112_001530.jpg
    314.8 KB · Views: 6
  • 20210112_001509.jpg
    20210112_001509.jpg
    355.1 KB · Views: 5
  • Screenshot_20210112-001658_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20210112-001658_Gallery.jpg
    308.8 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, in the YELLOW CIRCLE i see the thermal fuse, that is probably blown out, and thus you will NOT get 240 volts at the broil element.

So, what you will need to do is unplug the range from the wall outlet and remove those 2 wires from the thermal fuse and ohm test it for continuity.

You will need a multimeter to ohm test your thermal fuse first for continuity.

Pull your range out from the wall, then unplug it, then take off the back access panel and your thermal fuse will be in view, take both wires off of it before ohm testing it.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Thermal Fuse WP3196548


Here's the video that shows you how to ohm test it:

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
I'll check it. My fluke meter has an OHM meter built in. I did OHM the heating element and the broil element. They were 17/18 Ohms and 14 Ohms respectively.

If the thermal fuse is blown, will this prevent getting 240V to the Oven heating element too? Does the thermal fuse control both the heating element and my broil element, I guess is my question.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If the thermal fuse is blown, will this prevent getting 240V to the Oven heating element too?
Does the thermal fuse control both the heating element and my broil element, I guess is my question.
Yes to both.

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Well the Ohm meter beeps continuously when I remove the fuse and test the leads. Shows .1 / .2 ohms. So I'm thinking the fuse is good?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, then the thermal fuse is good.

Then the only other part that controls the broil element is the clock oven control board, so that would be the culprit.

Here's the clock oven control board for your model: WPW10340323 Electronic Control Board

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Does the clock oven control board control both the broil and the oven heating?


How is my oven getting up to 200*F?

To spend another $400, I don't know, that's half the price of a new oven... :/ Maytag's really are piece of shi* appliances. This oven was purchased in December of 2017... Installed Late January. I've literally had it less than 3 years.

Is there a schematic available for the board that would allow me to replace a resistor or relay?
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Its very simple, if your not getting 240 volts to the broil element and the thermal fuse is good then the only part left is the clock/oven control board. I've seen this many times on my service calls in the last 34 years.

Is there a schematic available for the board that would allow me to replace a resistor or relay?
Nope, no appliance manufactures release the board schematic.

Just like automobile manufactures don't release theirs either.

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Damn. Looks like I'll be shopping for a new oven, and staying far away from Maytag. Do you have any company recommendations? I don't think a 3 year old appliance that was $1200 should need $500 in repairs every 3 years. And Maytag doesn't stand behind any of their parts.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
114,596
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Maytag is top notch! I own a Maytag Range and not a single problem since it was new in 2005.

I'm sorry about what happened to yours, and I agree it shouldn't have shorted out the clock oven control board, but some things are out of our control.

Stay away from LG, GE, Samsung, and Frigidaire.

I'd go with Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid, Roper, Admiral.

Jake
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
Wow. Thats crazy. I looked over the board tonight, and there are no obvious burns or anything. I did find a schematic online, it give a procedure to initiate test mode, which will check relays and what not. I'm going to look it over a little and see if there happens to be anything I might be able to replace on the board. There are companies who offer refurbished boards, so I might consider one of those too.

Thanks for the input, when I get a replacement board, or fix mine, I'll post and let you know.
 

Jpc647

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
New England
One more question. In the diagnostic mode, there is a control panel reset option. I go into cancel cancel start, and then cycle to reset. It flashes, then seems to restart, but then it never completes. It just says Control Reset. Theres nothing on my diagnostic shematic. Is there something else I need to press?
 
Top