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Maytag MFI2568AES ice2O ICE MAKER NOT WORKING

Fairway

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Jul 13, 2013
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Virginia
I was able to find the tech sheet for that model with all the service tests. See if running the tests turn up anything. It has me stumped.

Im not sure what you mean by "running the tests" other than entering the service mode and toggling thru the settings. I guess I'll do that and post what each says.
FF
 

Fairway

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Rick - Here is a pdf with what shows as i toggle +/-, or depress actuator and/or what each code shows. I sure would like to fix this ice maker as my wife is about to have a fit. As mentioned Ive replaced the Dual Water Valve and the entire ice maker unit. Whats left to replace? - The mainboard I noticed in the back?

Anyone else post with issues on this model?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks. FF
 

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Fairway

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Also - I filled the tray manually to see if it would dump into bin. The water froze but it did not dump.
 

Jake

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Rick will be out of town a few days, so you'll not likely get a reply back from him for awhile. I would assist you, but I no nothing about this model's ice maker system, its fairly new, sorry.

If worse comes to worse you may want to get Maytag to come out and see what's going on.

Jake
 

Stpfan

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Detroit
Hello. I have the exact same model refrigerator. I noticed only 2 or 3 ice cubes left in the bin. This unit has been working wonderfully for the last 14 years. Not one part has been replaced. Ice maker is simply not making any ice cubes anymore. I did all the tests...

Test 113 - 0.0
Test 141 - 44
Test 142 - 14
Test 144 - 89
Test 145 - 22
Test 192 - On
Test 193 - Off

I have plenty of water flow in the water dispenser at the front of the refrigerator. It doesn't look like anything is frozen anywhere inside, on or around ice maker. Totally stumped what to do or what to test next?
 

Jake

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Hi, Rick has been out sick since Jan.12th 2022 with a serious illness, we are hoping and praying for a speedy recovery!

You have a dual water inlet valve, once side for the ice maker, then other side for the water dispenser. Its possibly a problem in that ice maker side solenoid not allowing enough water to come in.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model below, when you click the part link to it, there is a video that shows you how to access the water inlet valve inside the refrigerator section.

Water Inlet Valve 67006322


Jake
 

Stpfan

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Location
Detroit
I appreciate the post. Is there a way to manually fill the water/tray and allow the ice maker to go through it's cycle.... and see if it will dump out the ice cubes as normal? Wouldn't this allow you to tell if it's a water intake valve or a totally failed ice maker (mechanical) assembly? I noticed some youtube videos from other ice maker models that this technique does work. But would it work for this particular model? Thank you for your time.
 

Jake

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Is there a way to manually fill the water/tray and allow the ice maker to go through it's cycle.... and see if it will dump out the ice cubes as normal?
You bet you can, just pour water into the ice maker tray to fill up all the cube slots, then give it a couple hours and see if it dumps them out.

Jake
 

Stpfan

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Thank you for the reply Jake. Much appreciated.

Ok.... here's what is really interesting. I never got around to manually putting water in the ice maker tray. I was busy all day yesterday. I opened up the ice maker bin and looked inside... there are 8 ice cubes. Apparently it made a batch of ice on it's own? What would prompt the ice maker to finally work? I would say this is the first batch of ice made in about 7 days. The current temperature reading on the front door panel is Freezer 1 degree. Refrigerator Temp 38 degrees.

For 14 years I always kept these settings. Freezer 3 degrees. Refrigerator Temp 40 degrees. Worked like a champ for 14 years. I only started messing with the settings when I noticed the refrigerator side was around 52 degrees internally. I already cleaned the coils about 45 days ago. The ice maker problem just started happening about 7 days ago.

What do you believe it could be? What would be the next step? Thank you.
 

Stpfan

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I just put my hand inside the ice maker. Definitely ice cubes in the tray right now. I don't know why they haven't dropped yet?
 

Jake

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The ice cubes can only drop when the ice maker thermostat gets below 16 degrees and stays below 16 degrees constantly.

Put a freezer thermometer in the ice maker compartment and give it 2 hours and see what it reads.

Get the RED Liquid or digital freezer thermometer. Walmart, Target sells them usually at about 10 dollars and they last a lifetime.

Jake
 

Stpfan

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Thanks Jake for the your replies! You're a big help! If the temp isn't staying below 16 degrees. What do I need to look at next? Periodically I have gone into diagnostic mode the past 5-6 days and here are some of the readings.

Test 142 - 31 degrees, 18 degrees, 25 degrees, 14 degrees

Test 145 - 36 degrees, 26 degrees, 31 degrees, 22 degrees.

I haven't manually placed a freezer thermometer in the ice box yet. I don't have one.

Again, I appreciate all your posts and advice!
 
Last edited:

Jake

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Service Test – 142 Freezer Thermistor--->Its too warm in your freezer as well, it should be between 0 to 5 degrees F. Do you hear the freezer fan motor running inside the freezer?

Also check for frost build-up on the back panel inside the freezer.

SERVICE TEST–145 ICE BOX THERMISTOR--->Its way too warm in the ice box, that's why its not making ice.

Did you notice if the ice maker fan motor is running?

If not. On the main Iceland control board in the back of your refrigerator, measure the voltage across J1-8 (white wire) and J2-10 (red/black wire). You should have 120 Volts AC. Set your meter to measure DC volts and measure the voltage between J6-1 (black/green) and J6-2 (red/black) You should have 12 VDC.

Here's the evaporator fan motor for your model you can order if your voltage is good to it:
WP67006968 Motor-Fan


Here's the main control board for your model:
Control Board W10890094


Jake
 

Stpfan

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Jake - Appreciate all your responses. Stepped away for a few days to think about this. From these numbers in diagnostics mode

Test 141 - 58 degrees, 44 degrees, 45 degrees, 47 degrees, 42 degrees, 45 degrees, 48 degrees.

Test 142 - 31 degrees, 18 degrees, 25 degrees, 14 degrees, 23 degrees, 10 degrees

Test 145 - 36 degrees, 26 degrees, 31 degrees, 22 degrees, 24 degrees, 19 degrees, 22 degrees

How accurate are they? Do they typically fluctuate like this? The coils at the bottom of the refrigerator are super clear and dusty free.

No matter how much a change the temperature at the front of the refrigerator up or down... it sometimes makes the refrigerator colder for a few hours but gets hot again. I don't have any foods blocking vents anywhere. Hardly have any food in there to begin with.

From this constant temperature fluctuation.... and not cold enough to make ice in the ice bin.... what should I look at next? What are you thinking it could be? Thank you!
 

Jake

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Your temps are still way to warm to make ice, even the freezer temp is to warm at 10 degrees F, it should be around 0 degrees F.

Do you hear the ice maker fan motor is running in the ice maker compartment?

If so, then you either have a frost build-up on the evaporator coil or a sealed system problem.

Are your condenser coils clean? If not that causes too much heat in the back where the compressor is located and can make it shut down prematurely if it overheats.

Just pull off the bottom front kickplate grille and get a vacuum cleaner attachment or condenser brush to clean your condenser. Even better would be if you have an air compressor or shop vac to blow the condenser coils out, yes its a bit more messy on your kitchen floor, but it cleans it thoroughly.:)

Vacuum Hose Attachment 8171579A


Refrigerator Condenser Cleaning Brush


Jake
 

Stpfan

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Thanks Jake for all your help. I had a chance to take off the back grill and examine things further. Here are the diagnostics reading before I cut power to the refrigerator (before I took off the lower back panel.)

Test 141 - 42 degrees
Test 142 - 18 degrees
Test 144 - 88 degrees
Test 145 - 26 degrees

Yes, I know... still way too warm inside. And no ice in quite a few days in the ice bin.

Oddly enough I get the coldest results inside the refrigerator by setting the front display at -1 freezer and 36 degrees refrigerator. Anything colder on the display makes the refrigerator warmer and/or more inconsistent. Could be pure coincidence but just relaying you the information.

So... I turned the power back on to the refrigerator and watched the compressor start up. Everything sounds smooth. The fan near the compressor started right up and seems to be spinning super fast. I could feel the breeze. Compressor sounds normal. I would only imagine the start relay is working perfectly? Since the compressor started right up?

Upon taking the back panel off is there any visual proof with the naked eye of a freon leak? I want to post these photos.... maybe you could tell me if this green substance is normal? I circled the area of concern in YELLOW.

Thank you for your time!
 

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Jake

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The green stuff isn't corrosion or a leak, its left over solder/flux from the factory. A freon leak would leave a yellowish oily substance.

The problem seems to be a sealed system problem, because the freezer should be at around 0 degrees F at all times.

You can remove the back panel inside the freezer and look at the frost pattern of your evaporator coil. Look at these photos below, the very bottom photo is a NORMAL FROST PATTERN.

Frost Patterns.jpg
 

Stpfan

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Thanks for the post Jake. Wanted to give you a quick updated response. So, yesterday I had the refrigerator off for about 1 hour or so. Just cleaning the best I could (honestly... nothing really on the coils anywhere.) Just inspecting what I could. Put the back cover back on and turned the power back on to the refrigerator. Woke up this morning and my wife said she heard the ice cubes drop in the ice bin.

Here are the diagnostic numbers before anyone opened any fridge doors etc.

Test 141 - 42 degrees
Test 142 - 12 degrees
Test 144 - 90 degrees
Test 145 - 20 degrees

So I checked the ice bin.... just 8 ice cubes. Why is it that every time I cut power to the unit I get 1 batch of ice a few hours later? I was researching some youtube videos about the main control board... to examine it if there are any burns marks? Is that even worth someone's time?

I did examine the freezer.... no frost at all when you open the freezer drawer and look all the way in the back. I will check the evaporator coil and remove the back panel from inside the freezer when I have an opportunity too.

Again, sorry to bombard you with all these messages and sentences. I've already started looking at newer refrigerators for a back up plan. I do want to try and fix the one I have with hardly any money put into it. I just feel if I call out a technician in my area we might start approaching $300+ and the problem may never be resolved.

In your honest opinion do you believe the Compressor just needs more refrigerant? A recharge? Thanks again.
 

Jake

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Its a sealed system problem.

The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, heat exchanger, filter/drier and refrigerant.

Common problems with a sealed system are bad compressors, refrigerant leaks, and system restrictions.

Sealed system repair costs will often exceed the machines value.

Jake
 

Stpfan

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Thanks Jake for your help! I'll update this thread when I decide on what I'm doing. Repairing it... or buying a new one. Enjoy your holiday weekend!
 
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