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FIXED Maytag MFX2876DRM00 Ice Maker not working. E1 error code.

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Chris21

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May 14, 2021
Messages
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Location
Rhode Island
Model Number
MFX2876DRM00
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Hello. New member here, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

About 4-5 days ago I started hearing a gurgling noise in the refrigerator. I read that this is "normal", but the refrigerator is almost 6 years old and I've never heard it before. I noticed 3 days ago that the IM is no longer producing ice. I ran diagnostics and the only two service tests that came back with something other than normal were 56 and 57. Error code for 56 was E1 - "No cooling, IM timed out. Ice compt. unable to read desired temps." Error for 57 was 0 - "Temp warmer than harvest temp."

Do you think the gurgling noise and these errors are related? What could be the issue? Bad IM thermistor?

Thanks for the help.
 

Jake

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Hi Chris,

Error code E1=No cooling.

Put a freezer thermometer inside your freezer and tell us what it reads after being in it for 2 hours, The Red-Liquid style or Digital style freezer thermometer is best to use, most stores sell them for under $10.00, Because the freezer sends cold air to the ice maker to make ice, if the freezer is not between 0 to 10 degrees your ice maker will not make ice.

Also Do these TESTS below, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below too.

Service Test - 36: Ice Box Fan
--->Check for fan operation. Control ice box fan by selecting SW3. Display the status on Temp Display. (01 = on, 02 = off). Verify airflow from the ice box fan.

Service Test - 37: Ice Box Thermistor
--->The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the Temp display (01 = pass, 02 = open, 03 = short).

Jake
 

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Chris21

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Thanks Jake. I already ran all diagnostics prior to posting yesterday and nothing came back irregular other than tests 56 and 57.

HOWEVER, last night I noticed that the ice cream in the freezer was very soft. So I put a thermometer in both the refrigerator and freezer to see if it was cooling at 37 degrees and 0 degrees and it's not. The fridge is 46 degrees and the freezer is 17 degrees.

What's even more confusing is the service test 56 is now coming back at E0 - "No Errors", and test 57 is still 10 - "Temp warmer than harvest temp."

What is going on?
 

Chris21

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Update: This morning I lowered the temps on the screen for both fridge and freezer by 2 degrees just to see if it dropped inside. Fridge dropped the 2 degrees after a couple hours, freezer has not moved.
 

Jake

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Do you hear the freezer(evaporator) fan motor running when you open the freezer door?

Jake
 

Chris21

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Yes it's definitely running. Along with hearing it it's also moving the plastic on a bread bag.

Not sure if this is normal or not, but I just had the freezer open for maybe 20-30 seconds to wipe off the seals and the temp went up 3 degrees. Seems like a lot.
 
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Jake

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Ok, now check to see if you have frost build-up on the back panel inside the freezer, better yet remove the back panel inside the freezer and take a photo of the evaporator coil, we need to see the frost pattern of it.

Also run this test:
Service Test - 6: Defrost Heater/Bi-metal
NOTE: If bi-metal is open, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate.
Heater should be on. Display will be blank until a valid reading is displayed (01 = bi-metal closed, 02 = bi-metal open).

Leave it in service test 6 for 10 minutes and feel for heat at the defrost heater which is located at the bottom of your evaporator coil behind that back panel inside the freezer.

This video is likely closer to your model for removing the back panel inside the freezer, it starts at about the 10:30 mark of the video:

Jake
 

Chris21

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Thanks, I'll do this tonight.

Question tho... This process seems like it is getting to the root cause of why the freezer is warm; but why is the front display not showing an accurate temperature?
 

Jake

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why is the front display not showing an accurate temperature?
Because you may have a motherboard problem, causing both problems. I've seen this happen before.

Also, check your Deli Drawer UI(User Interface) to see if its gone out. That can also cause the front display to not display properly and the warm freezer temperatures.

Look at post #19 here:
Check for any broken Pantry UI(User Interface) wires like Josh found.

Here's the Pantry UI(User Interface) wire harness for your model:

Here's the video to access/replace it:

Jake
 

Chris21

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Ok, thanks for all the info.

So, the pantry UI is working fine, BUT I did randomly change the setting from "Meats/Cheeses" to "Assorted Items" around when this all started happening. It was on "Meats/Cheeses" since we got it 5 years ago. I know it's stupid but do you think this has anything to do with the issues? I'm just trying to think of things that changed right before this started.

The other thing that is new is the gurgling noise. I've read that this is normal, but I've never it before in my 5 years of ownership. And it started when the IM stopped working. I'm concerned about this because I know the gurgling is in the sealed system and I'm worried that that's where the issue is.

I will get to removing the back freezer panel tomorrow morning. I think it may be a motherboard issue too because Service Test 56 is still giving an "E0" which is clearly not the case. Where is the motherboard located? Is that an expensive part/repair?
 

Jake

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So, the pantry UI is working fine, BUT I did randomly change the setting from "Meats/Cheeses" to "Assorted Items" around when this all started happening. It was on "Meats/Cheeses" since we got it 5 years ago. I know it's stupid but do you think this has anything to do with the issues? I'm just trying to think of things that changed right before this started.
As long as its working and not blank, then it should be fine.

The other thing that is new is the gurgling noise.
Yes, it could be normal or a sealed system problem, but we will found out once you remove the back panel inside the freezer and take a photo of your evaporator coil with your smartphone so we can see the frost pattern of it.

The motherboard(main control board) is located on the very back of the refrigerator, once you pull the refrigerator out from the wall you will see the cover over it. Also while the refrigerator is pulled out remove the lower back access panel and make sure the condenser fan motor is running, it mounts next to the compressor.

Jake
 

Chris21

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Ok understood. I still haven't had the time to get the freezer out (toddler and a newborn). I've noticed for the past day or so tho that the compressor is MUCH louder and is constantly running.
 

Jake

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Yes, I understand, but until we can see the evaporator coil we won't know the problem.

Sounds like you have a lot on your hands with your toddler and newborn, you may want to have a friend or family member or even Maytag come out at 1-800-344-1274 and do this for you.

Jake
 

Chris21

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I had a local appliance repair place come by today to diagnose the issue. He didn't take the back panel off but he said he could see the bottom evaporator coil thru the slots and it did not have a consistent frost (?). Don't quote me on that, pretty sure that's what he said.

He said given that, plus the increasing temps, gurgling noise, extra loud compressor working overtime, and lack of frost in the freezer, I have a sealed system leak. Literally the worst most expensive issue is what I have. Just my luck.

I haven't received an official estimate yet, but he gave me a verbal roundabout of $1600 to replace the system. I almost threw up. Seriously?? $1600?? I'm more frustrated with the fact that this damn refrigerator isn't even 6 years old yet and I'm already spending 2/3 of the cost on a repair. Unreal. He did give me the option of potentially finding the leak and fixing it for much cheaper rather than total replacement. So I may go that route.

In the meantime, is there somewhere I can find the part numbers for the parts necessary to replace the sealed system and so I can see if I can get a deal on them?
 

Jake

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Was that a Authorized Maytag tech that came out?

Without him checking for a LEAK, he's assuming its a leak, and you NEVER ASS=U=ME on appliance repair LOL. Usually it's the compressor that is the culprit, if you DON'T have AUTO-DEFROST problem.

This Refrigerator has a Compressor Warranty:
SECOND THROUGH TENTH YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
(COMPRESSOR ONLY - LABOR NOT INCLUDED)
In the second through tenth years from the date of original purchase, when this major appliance is installed, operated and maintained according to instructions attached to or furnished with the product, Maytag will pay for a factory
specified replacement compressor
to correct non-cosmetic defects in materials or workmanship in this part that prevent function of the refrigerator and that existed when this major appliance was purchased.

This limited 10-year warranty is for the compressor only and does not include labor.

Jake
 

Chris21

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Maytag just sends local shops for repair work; I guess they're "authorized" but that doesn't mean they work for Maytag. The two local shops they recommended both have horrible reviews so I didn't want to use them. And my family has used the company/guy who came to look at it numerous times and he's always taken care of them. So I trust him. I agree finding the leak would be ideal, but if he says based on all the symptoms there's a leak in the sealed system, then there's a leak in the sealed system. And concerning auto-defrost, how would I have an auto-defrost problem if there's no frost buildup anywhere?

Anyway, good news is that I spoke with Maytag and they agreed to cover the cost of the repair if I provide them with a list of parts. Problem is that my guy is on vacation so I can't get a breakdown of the parts needed to replace the system until June 3rd.

Would you be able to provide the parts needed or point me in the right direction to get them?
 

Jake

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And concerning auto-defrost, how would I have an auto-defrost problem if there's no frost buildup anywhere?
By removing the back panel in the freezer and looking directly at the evaporator coil.:)

Also did he pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the lower back access panel and make sure the condenser fan motor was running? That mounts next to the compressor. If that is not running while the compressor is running it was also cause this problem.

Here's the compressor for your model:
Compressor W10276644


That is the only part you need, it comes with the filter drier that must be replaced as well.

Here's another member that had a similar issue and his uses the exact same compressor yours does and it fixed his:

If he does locate a leak, he should have solder on his truck to weld the leak shut.

Jake
 

Chris21

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Getting the fridge out from it's cubby and in an area big enough to work behind is no easy task in my kitchen, not something I want to do multiple times. So no, he did not pull it out.

So the compressor is the only part that is needed to be replaced for the whole "sealed system"?
 

Jake

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Yes Sir!

Jake
 
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