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Maytag MIM1555YRS2 Undercounter Ice Maker not draining.

agcsr25

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2021
Messages
13
Location
georgia
Model Number
MIM1555YRS2
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
I have a Maytag MIM1555YRS2 Undercounter Ice Maker that is not draining. It occurred after a cleaning with a nickel safe cleaner. Everything went fine and ice started to be made but water was filling in the ice collection bin. (water from ice making process that washes minerals down plastic tubes from water reservoir) If I cycle the power the pump would drain for a fixed time and turn off but did not drain all the water. Cycle it several times and you could drain all the water.

I pulled the drain line off and cleaned it but it was clean to start with. Cleaned the Ptrap and drain pipe that the drain line ran to.(was dirty but not clogged) I ran a second dose of nickel safe cleaner and it worked for several days. Once again water filling up when ice is being made.

Several times I tried putting 32 oz of water in the bin and it went down the drain but did not activate pump. Put 32 oz down on top of that and sometimes the pump would come on but not completely empty the bin of water and sometimes nothing happened with the pump. Appreciate any and all advice. I have read several threads with similar problem but did not find a definitive solution.

Thanks,
Andy
 

Jake

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I located a service bulletin on your model about this, what is the serial number of your undercounter ice maker?

Serial Numbers: Beginning with K11300000 and ending with K30900000
Concern: Water collects in ice bin.
Cause: 5/8” Drain bin to pump tube connecting the ice bin to the inlet of the drain pump may collapse (figure 1) causing water to accumulate in the bottom of the ice bin.
Correction: Replace the old drain tube Part# W10282077 with a new clear tube Part# WPW10493860. See figure 2.

I'm attaching that service bulletin below. Note: W10493860 has been updated to WPW10493860.

Jake
 

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  • servicepointer-w10598106-draintubeandhose.pdf
    241.5 KB · Views: 18

agcsr25

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Location
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Thank you Jake. My serial number is K33221183. I will check the tube anyway since crazier things have happened. Thank you again.

Andy
 

Jake

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Ok Andy, per your serial number yours does not fall under that service bulletin.

I will check the tube anyway since crazier things have happened
Yes, I would do that.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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It has the correct clear tube. I am going to pull the pump out and see if I can figure anything out.
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good. That's what I would do too.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WP2313705


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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Location
georgia
Well, I pulled the whole pump/reservoir out the back of the unit, drained it (water a little cloudy) and blew out vent hole and drain holes. Didn't feel like it was clogged. Unit now drains water wonderfully and fills but now I think the compressor is not kicking on. Cool air blowing out front by coil and not getting cold inside. I joked to my son that this would happen and here I am. On to the next step.
 

Jake

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That's very odd, the compressor was running fine before this drain issue happened, correct?

Check to see if you bumped a electrical connector to the compressor by accident when you were inspecting the drain pump.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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The compressor was working before and I had ice. Just had a swimming pool with ice floating in it before. Got rid of the swimming pool and apparently the ice too. Oh the first world problems we must suffer. lol. I must have hit some wiring putting it back in along with the long power cord that wraps around the drain pump. I will see if I can find it after work today. I very much appreciate all your help and advice.

Andy
 

Jake

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Ok Andy, yes keep us posted.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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Well, compressor is running and is warm to touch but the copper line going to the compressor just right of the start relay is neither hot or cold. I did clean the condenser with a soft brush prior to the compressor issue. Wonder if I somehow caused a leak? Any thoughts? Thanks.

Andy
 

Jake

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Which copper line from the compressor? The smaller one is the condenser line, which should be warm/hot. The larger line is the evaporator line, which should be cool/cold.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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This line.
 

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  • compressor.jpg
    compressor.jpg
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Jake

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That's the low side(evaporator) line, it should be cool/cold.

Jake
 

agcsr25

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So I went back to basics and put it in service mode. Bin thermistor was solid blue on the on/off(good). The evaporator thermistor was solid green on the clean(good). Water valve and sensor was solid green on clean and blinking red that never went solid red on the service button.(water flowed in and shutoff on own). (bad?). Recirculation pump came on and green on/off with red service button and green clean button.(good).

Reservoir drain pump came on and pumped water out with blue on/off. Condenser fan and compressor turned on with a blue on/off and green clean but the red service button never blinked after 15 min. Compressor during this last test initially started to get cold and the copper low side line was getting cold but quickly went to room temperature after a minute or so. Any thoughts? Appreciate it.

Andy
 

Jake

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I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

I need to ask Rick about this, because something isn't adding up, how can the drain problem interfere with the compressor not running properly?

Jake
 

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  • serviceandwiringsheet-w10536704-revc.pdf
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rickgburton

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low side line was getting cold but quickly went to room temperature after a minute or so.
Was the compressor still running? When you removed the drain did any copper lines or the cap tube get kinked?
 

agcsr25

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Nothing kinked. I pulled start relay and checked continuity of all three pins and was all ok. Checked for dead short and that was ok. Condenser fan is coming on but it appears compressor is not coming on now. Low side not getting cold at all now. Shook start relay and it rattles quite a bit and you can feel the rattling. Set multimeter to ohms and put probes in S and M female terminals and it read "0" turned relay over and it read "1" . Went from female S to L and it read"0" and when flipped it read"1". Went from female M to L and it read "0", flipped it and it read "0". I am wondering if the S to L should have changed from "0" to "1" like it did.
 
Last edited:

rickgburton

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Shook start relay and it rattles quite a bit
That's normal for that style. It's the piece inside the relay that closes and opens the contacts. Did you check the overload for continuity? Check for 120 VAC at the compressor
 

agcsr25

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There is continuity at the overload and 120 VAC at the compressor. I'm stumped. First, I never really found a problem with the drain pump but it is now working like a champ. Compressor that was working fine is now out to lunch.
 
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