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Maytag MRT118FFFH01's ice maker stopped working + can't hit the temperature I want

Metallica93

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2022
Messages
1
Location
Chicago, IL
Model Number
MRT118FFFH01
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Please note that the age of the model is a guess as I'm a new tenant and it appears my management company only acquired this building/unit recently. From what I'm reading online, I doubt this model is newer than 5 years.

Yesterday, I noticed my Maytag's ice maker stopped working and that the freezer compartment had warmed up enough to melt ice cream. This came after I had removed a patch of ice from the back right of the freezer wall for a second time in the past couple of weeks. And that came after trying to find a temperature setting that kept everything cool, but still allowed me to thaw chicken in the refrigerator; the recommended temperature setting and the one below that kept a small chicken breast pretty solid for days after I transferred it from the freezer to the fridge. Unfortunately, the setting below those two also caused ice to partially melt in the freezer.

Anyway, for both issues, I ran through a parts list, some videos, and this forum to see if I could narrow it down:

- the compressor is warm and vibrating with a clear warmth to the... (send? return?), so I assume that's good
- the condenser fan is on/running
- I expected the condenser coils to be at least warm, but they felt around room temperature, possibly a little warmer (note that the ambient temperature in here is about 80 degrees, as well)
- the water hose from the cutoff valve to the water inlet valve is clear
- soaked the general area testing the water supply line with the hose attached, so that... definitely works... (whoops)
- I let the refrigerator sit unplugged for a couple of hours or more in a rather hot apartment, so I would assume that would help thaw out any potential blockages in the tubing going from the water inlet valve to the ice maker
- the water inlet valve, a Robertshaw S-86-QC N (W10498974), read ~195 ohms on my digital multimeter, with videos saying the valves should generally read between 200 and 500 ohms; could this be the problem if the ohms "should" (according to my basic math) be over 400? I'm uncertain how that all affects the component

If this is just a inlet valve replacement, I won't have to bother the landlord, but I'm unsure about the weird temperatures in the refrigerator compartment itself.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
134,025
Location
Redmond, Oregon
This came after I had removed a patch of ice from the back right of the freezer wall for a second time in the past couple of weeks.
That usually indicates a sealed system problem. If you have no warranty left on the sealed system then it would be very expensive to fix.

This video shows you:


Jake
 
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