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Maytag MVWB450WQ0 After installing new tub seal, shaft is hard to turn

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
Model Number
MVWB450WQ0
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
The bearings went on my Mom's Maytag Bravos. I bought a bearings kit W10435302 and the bearings installation tool W10447783. I watched videos and used the instructions for the bearings kit. After installing the top and bottom bearings I had to pound the drive shaft in to get the metal ring on the shaft to touch the top bearing.

Underneath washer I see no threads exposed on the shaft to attach the nut to. Somehow the top bearing didn't get pushed down far enough. So after *a lot* of pounding on the drive shaft with a big pipe wrench I managed to get the shaft and top bearing down far enough to expose enough threads to attach the nut to. I check and the shaft spins easily.

Now I install the tub seal. I can't push it in with my hand; one side will push in and pop out the other side so I use the piece of pvc pipe to pound it in. It takes *a lot* of intense pounding again with the pipe wrench just to get the tub seal flush with the outer tub. It seems from the videos I see the seal should be seated a little deeper. So pound some more. I get it down a bit more. I go to give the shaft a spin and it's very tight.

I tried loosening the nut on the bottom of the shaft but no change. I was thinking maybe the bearing is still too high but I can't seem to pound it down more. I don't understand how putting the seal on is now causing so much friction.

I did grease the tub seal and put the adhesive on before I put it in. Part of the problem is I can find no information about how far down the top bearing or the tub seal should be recessed. The instructions say to push down until it "bottoms out". Due to the difficulty in inserting a lot of the parts it's hard to tell if you've hit bottom or not. Some measurements would have been nice.

I'm not sure what to do now. I've been working on this damned washer for days now!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
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This thread explains it:

Jake
 

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
I saw that post already but i never put the stator and rotor back on. I just now was trying to pound the shaft out but even with a 2 foot heavy pipe wrench I can't get the shaft back out. I thought it wouldn't be as hard as getting the old rusty shaft out but it is.

I thought if I could get the shaft and tub seal out I could redo it. I think maybe I pounded the seal down so much it's rubbing.

I thought the seal had to be recessed but another video showed it flush.

This new shaft was spinning fine until I put the seal on now it's tight like the old rusty one.

If I try to use it tight like that I'm afraid it will wear out the hub again.

I was thinking of using WD40 rust penetrating spray. I used that to get the old shaft out.
 
Last edited:

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
111,826
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I haven't installed this bearing kit as of yet so I'm not able to tell you if that tightness is normal or not, it seems it is per that thread I posted above.

I was thinking of using WD40 rust penetrating spray. I used that to get the old shaft out.
Sure, you can try that.

Jake
 

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
Yeah but I thought that tightness was caused by the stator and rotor being on. I intentionally left mine off in case I had a problem and had to take apart the washer. Hell I don't know if I should pound the shaft out and try to redo the seal or if I should pound it back down to expose the threads again so I can put the nut back on.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
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Just follow the video, that's what I would do in doing my 1st one.


Jake
 

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
I've followed multiple videos but no one tries to spin the shaft or basket after the seal is in or mentions if the shaft is supposed to be that hard to turn after the seal is in. It was spinning easily until I pounded the seal in and now it's much harder to turn. I don't know if that's normal or not.

I'm just going to reassemble it and see what happens.
 

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
I just put the rotor back on and gave it a turn. It makes a grinding scraping sound. Seems like the stator is scraping against the inside of the rotor. How is that even possible?

So I just removed the rotor and turned the shaft. The shaft makes no sound. I checked inside the rotor and looked around the stator for anything sticking out that could be scraping. Nothing. I'm about to lose my mind.
 
Last edited:

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
I Googled the rotor scraping and it has happened to a lot of people after changing the bearings or replacing the stator. Shouldn't be scraping but nice to know I'm not the only one.
 

JeMo

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Messages
7
Location
NE Ohio
Ok, so I tightened up the stator and now the rotor doesn't scrape anymore. I went ahead and reassembled the washer and put it in test mode. And guess what? It's doing the same damned thing it was doing before I replaced the bearings! The washer will pump the water out but the basket won't go into a high spin.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,826
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
That's very odd, many others have replaced this same bearing kit and not had that trouble.

You will to take everything apart again and redo it all, and you will likely find what you did wrong.

Jake
 
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