FIXED Maytag MVWC425BW1 Washer Won't Sense

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Seanzy00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Ohio
Model Number
MVWC425BW1
Brand
Maytag
Age
1-5 years
Hey everyone,

Last week our maytag washer decided to give us some fits. The appliance was sold with the house and was told by the previous owners that they had it for no more than 2-3 years (which total would put this 4-5 years old now). When I go to start a cycle, I see the 'sense' light blink (literally blink, no steady on at all) and then I hear what sounds like the drain pump (just a guess, as that's what it would sound like to me). Won't proceed after that. The sound just continues until I cancel out the cycle.

Codes - Initial:

Error F1E2 = Centennial washer motor control fault. the motor control is integrated into the main washer control.

Error F2E1 = a Centennial washer control key has been pressed for more than 15 seconds.

Error F3E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor fault.

Error F8E3 = Centennial washer pressure sensor thinks that the washer has over filled with water.

Codes - After Reset:

Error F3E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor fault.

*To note. When I cycle through all of the codes. On the first shown code, I see the F3E1. But as I continue to click over, for the next three clicks, all I see is the Sense light blink but nothing else. (As if the 3 codes before, are still there but not there.....because only the sense light comes on, but no other lights indicating an actual code)

When I ran the diagnostic, it would go through the entire cycle just fine. No new codes, no funky noises. Just a full diagnostic cycle with no problems.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,727
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below. Check to make sure your water pressure switch hose is on properly and doesn't have a hole in it, Blow through that hose to clear the tub air dome, make sure no water is in the tub.

If your water pressure switch hose is fine, then do TEST #6 and let us know the results. On this model you don't have a seperate water level switch, its integrated into the main control board.

Error F3E1=Fault is displayed when the Main Control detects an out of range pressure signal.
• Check pressure hose connection from tub to pressure sensor. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
• See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.

Here's the main control board for your model:
W10671342 Electronic Control Board


Jake
 

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Seanzy00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Ohio
I checked the full length of the hose and all looked good. No kinks, rips, leaks, etc. I did the blow through test and it was free flowing with no bubbles, suds, etc.

Once I did that, I did a manual test cycle and it cycled as it did before. At the very end of the cycle, once the lid lock is disengaged, i could hear a pump(?) run for several minutes afterwards before it stopped. Again, it did that before.

Being that this has an integrated switch, I went ahead and ordered a replacement board. I'm now awaiting for that to get here. Supposed to be here tomorrow or Friday.

Thanks for the reply, Jake! (y)
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
102,727
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Sean, yes then the new control board should fix it.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

Seanzy00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Ohio
I hope so!

One question about the 'automatic test' that it says to do after the part replacement. That's what I have been doing and, to me, the test cycled through as it should (or so I believe). Now, aside from it 'just working again', would I know if the test cycle runs correctly?

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,727
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'm not following you. Did you do TEST #6 like I mentioned above?

TEST #6: Water Level
This test checks the water level sensing components. Depending on the model, the washer will have either an on-board pressure transducer or a separate pressure switch.
NOTE: Usually, if the pressure transducer or pressure switch malfunctions, the washer will generate a long fill, or long drain error.
1. Check the functionality of the pressure transducer or pressure switch by running a small load cycle. The valves should turn off automatically after sensing the correct water level in the tub. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.
2. Drain the tub until all water has been removed.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Remove console to access controls.
5. Check hose connection between the pressure transducer or switch and the pressure dome attached to the tub.
6. Check to ensure hose is routed correctly in the lower cabinet and not pinched or crimped by the back panel.
7. Verify there is no water, suds, or debris in the hose or dome. Disconnect hose from main control or pressure switch and blow into hose to clear water, suds, or debris.
8. Check hose for leaks. Replace if needed.
9. If the preceding steps did not correct the problem, go to step 10 if troubleshooting a pressure switch, or step 11 if troubleshooting an onboard pressure transducer.
10. Pressure Switch Only:
a. Remove the pressure hose from the switch.
b. Place the leads of an ohmmeter across connector J4, pins 1 & 3 of the main control.
Blow into the pressure switch inlet. The pressure switch contact should close and show continuity.
--->If there is no continuity, check the harness and connections between the pressure switch and J4 on the main control. If OK, replace the pressure switch.
--->If there is continuity, reconnect hose to pressure switch and continue to step 11.
11. Replace the main control and calibrate washer. Perform Automatic Test to verify repair.

Jake
 

Seanzy00

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Ohio
New main control installed.

Automatic test ran.

All works as intended.

Thanks again! (y)
 
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