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Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW dead

3lowdown

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
6
Location
Kansas
Model Number
FAV6800AWW
Brand
Maytag
Age
6-10 years
Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW
Washer stopped during spin cycle, lid locked, no lights, LCD is black. Appeared totally dead. There is 110v power at the wall outlet, and 110v power going into the pin on the lower left corner of the board.

I ordered and installed a new control board part # 25001217, but still no lights on panel, LCD is black. Still completely dead.

Again - there is 110V at the outlet, and 110V going into the board at the plug/pin on the lower left corner of the board.

Did I get a bad replacement board? Or is there something else I should look at besides the board?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
125,321
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I don't know anything about this model, but Dick (aka member username dh1200s) could possibly assist you, he should be here soon.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
125,321
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds good, thanks Dick.:)

Jake
 

dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
Good morning Jake,
I got some sleep the batteries are recharged to around 83%. I’m on call and had to get to bed when I got home this morning. I never know when the darn pager is going to go off. I work for a Cable company as a Headend technician; we get paged a lot for after hours support.

I sent 3lowdown a link to a thread where I helped a repair tech with a problem I feel is identical to his issue with his LCD Console on the FAV9800A machine. It was the quickest way for me to help him. I like to troubleshoot as far as I can before replacing parts and that thread had a fair amount of troubleshooting in it.

The FAV9800A LCD Console is expensive and I feel if he got a second replacement FAV9800A console he would still have the same issue. We need to begin troubleshooting and I hope he has a DVM. It sounds like it from this part of his original post “”There is 110v power at the wall outlet, and 110v power going into the pin on the lower left corner of the board.””

I want him next to check for +12VDC on the Control board with his DVM at Conn_P3 pin 3&4 and Control Board Common at Conn_P3 pin 10 which is Tub Sensor Ground and make sure that he see's +12VDC at that point. If not I want him to disconnect the 3 pin Tub Sensor connector on the TDS and see if +12VDC returns on the Control Board and the Control Board/LCD returns to normal operation.

3lowdown as I mentioned in the other post I feel your machine could also be converted to the FAV6800A LED console. I base that on the wiring schematic info of the two machine types. They are identical from my stair and compare of the upper and lower machine wiring harness schematics.

I would really like to get my hands on one to try but I have a high degree of confidence it would swap over very easily. But let’s see if we can get the LCD Console up and running.

Dick
 
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3lowdown

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
6
Location
Kansas
I checked with DVM and there are Zero VDC on the Control board at Conn_P3 pin 3&4 and Control Board Common at Conn_P3 pin 10.

Then I disconnected the 3 pin Tub Sensor connector from the Tub Position Sensor. Still Zero VDC on the Control board at Conn_P3 pin 3&4 and Control Board Common at Conn_P3 pin 10.

The thing I'm not sure about is when you said "disconnect the 3 pin Tub Sensor connector on the TDS" What is TDS? I disconnected the plug from the Tub Position Sensor. Was that correct?

Thanks for the help!
 

dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
“”The thing I'm not sure about is when you said "disconnect the 3 pin Tub Sensor connector on the TDS" What is TDS? I disconnected the plug from the Tub Position Sensor. Was that correct?”” Yep the SM calls it the Tub Displacement Sensor page 27 of the SM.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Good deal, I would check to see how the 3 pin plug looks on the TDS plug that you removed? Is there any sign of greenish blue corrosion on that plug end?

<O:p</O:pMy next step would be to remove the 14 pin connector in the console to isolate +12VDC going down to the TDS Sensor plug and Pressure Switch and see if the Display/+12VDC restores.

<O:p</O:pIf that dosen’t restore +12VDC I would remove the Plugs from the Left and Right hand lid locks. Left Hand Lid lock 1<SUP>st</SUP>. I find it easier to remove the (5/16 I believe) screw then with the Lid Lock/latch in one hand remove the plug (it can be difficult) +12VDC is routed to those lid locks and see if the +12VDC/LCD restores.

<O:p</O:pPic of the 14 pin plug in the console.
<O:p</O:p<O:p</O:p
 
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dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
Something is pulling down the +12VDC going down to the lower part of the machine.

<O:p</O:pYou now should be able get into Service Mode and you should find that the locks will lock if you start a Spin Only Cycle. Keep in mind with the 14 Pin plug connector separated it will take 5 min or longer for the lid locks to release.

<O:p</O:pYa had to ask the hard part ""What next? ""…….:)<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

More troubleshooting some fun huh :)

<O:p</O:pWell +12VDC goes down to two devices the TDS and the Pressure switch. How handy are you with a soldering iron. I suspect the plug end that you removed from the TDS. Remember what the tech in the other forum did? He cut the plug and soldered directly the red/pink/blue wires directly to the TDS sensor. I would not do that just yet.

<O:p</O:pWith the 14 pin plug removed see if you can measure with your ohm meter a high/low resistance short between the three wires. I would use alligator clips on your OHM meter leads and some straight pins to get into the plug fingers and check for continuity between any of the three contacts well at least +12VDC and TDS common I believe as I look at the schematic red (+12VDC) input to the TDS sensor and pink (TDS Gnd).

If there is a short at the TDS plug and it can’t be cleared (Alcohol and acid brush) I would if you are game cut the plug end wire and leave a 3/6 inch pig tale on it. Make sure the remaining TDS cable conductors are not shorting out to together separate and insulate. With the plug removed and the 14 pin machine harness plugged together see if the washer LCD/Control Board return to service. If they do you will throw a UC unbalance error because you have no input from the TDS to the Control Board.

<O:p</O:pThat test would nail down if there is a corrosion short in the plug end of the TDS sensor cable going back to the Control Board.

<O:p</O:pI feel the TDS itself is not the point of failure because you kill the LCD with the TDS sensor plug removed from the sensor body.

<O:p</O:pI see no easy way to isolate to the pressure switch……..and I don’t feel that is the point of failure with the troubleshooting done so far.………..Dick
 
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dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
3lowdown,

I forgot to mention I have a 3 Pin TDS female plug with a 12 inch plus pig tale that was in my junk box. If this turns out to be the issue I can snail mail to you.
 

3lowdown

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
6
Location
Kansas
That was it. Snipped the three wires going to the TDS Plug, and now the control panel lights up with the 14 pin connector connected.

I cannot see anything wrong with that connector. I've cleaned it with alcohol and wiped it clean and dry. See attached. But as soon as I reconnect those wires (without even plugging it into into the TDS) The control panel will not light up.

Next step? Solder those wires directly to the TDS? I'm not that good with a soldering iron, but can probably find someone who is...

EDIT: i see that y you offered to send a TDS plug. PM Sent

THANKS!!
 
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dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
Yep it's an IDC connector and as you can see and from what limited on line troubleshooting (I find most folks won’t go past step two in troubleshooting with me with issues such as this)I have done. I believe the Bleach dispenser on the left hand side of the washer is a real killer on components on the left side of the machine. i.e. Left hand lid lock (see the FAV6800A sticky), TDS, left side front strut.

<O:p</O:pIf you Ohm out did it show a short between the pins? If mine is good maybe we can trade? Bottom line if mine is good it's yours.

Good troubleshooting. I think you will find your original Control Board is good. I hope you can return if so. If it was thru Jake and Repair Clinic it should be no problem. Always good to go thru Jake for parts.
<O:p</O:p

I'm going to test my spare TDS plug/pig tale and if it checks OK I'll post back back shortly...........Dick <O:p</O:p<O:p</O:p
 
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dh1200s

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Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
Good news my junk box spare is good no short between any of the 3 wires ;).

Just PM me and adr. where to send. No cost owed to me for it but maybe throw a tip in Jakes Paypal cookie jar for providing us a forum to help DIY owners……..Dick
 

dh1200s

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Dec 5, 2008
Messages
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Location
PA
3lowdown,

TDS plug with 2 foot jumper will hit the mail tomorrow. Once you install if you could post back so Jake can close the issue……..Dick
 

dh1200s

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Messages
218
Location
PA
3lowdown,

TDS plug with 2 foot jumper will hit the mail tomorrow. Once you install if you could post back so Jake can close the issue……..Dick

It's in the mail. If you could send me your old one. I would like to pop open the IDC connector and see if there is an issue on that side of the plug. I believe what you said about the fingers of the plug looking clean.

This is only the second one I have trouble shot form a distance and I would like to get a better feel for the fail point.

I have plenty of small dia heat shink here but did not think about sending you some until I got back from the post office.

My snail mail ADR to follow in a PM.

Good luck 3lowdown and I hope this works out for you. Please let us know the results...........Dick
 

3lowdown

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
6
Location
Kansas
Thanks Dick - that connector solved the problem. Connected it, soldered wires and taped. Connected to TPS and control panel lights up without error. I can't send back the old connector though - told wife it was the 'bad part' and she threw it out in the trash.

Thanks for all of your help!


It's in the mail. If you could send me your old one. I would like to pop open the IDC connector and see if there is an issue on that side of the plug. I believe what you said about the fingers of the plug looking clean.

This is only the second one I have trouble shot form a distance and I would like to get a better feel for the fail point.

I have plenty of small dia heat shink here but did not think about sending you some until I got back from the post office.

My snail mail ADR to follow in a PM.

Good luck 3lowdown and I hope this works out for you. Please let us know the results...........Dick
 

dh1200s

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
218
Location
PA
Thanks Dick - that connector solved the problem. Connected it, soldered wires and taped. Connected to TPS and control panel lights up without error. I can't send back the old connector though - told wife it was the 'bad part' and she threw it out in the trash.

Thanks for all of your help!


""This is only the second one I have trouble shot form a distance and I would like to get a better feel for the fail point.""

Maybe next time......3's a charm.

Jake I feel good about closing this issue but I would have liked to have nailed down the Root Cause of the fail point......... corrision issue at the connector, insulation break down at the IDC compression connector......... Dick
 

dh1200s

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Messages
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Location
PA
3lowdown.

I forgot to add my time is free as member of the forum.

But as Jake mentions at the bottom of the screen if you feel this forum has helped............ please see the little Gold Button. There will be other issues to work thru down the road with this TL and forums such as this save members a lot of time and money..........but it takes time and money to host the forum.

Take care and good luck..........Dick
 

sprocket87

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
2
Location
Ohio
Hi, I'd like to follow up to this post because I'm having a very similar issue with my Maytag Neptune FAV9800AWW and I need some guidance.

My symptoms are the same: No control panel power at all. No button responses/beeps/lights/display/anything. Double checked the breaker, outlet, etc.

I performed the troubleshooting that was suggested in this thread. I was able to get 12V DC when measuring between pins 3 or 4 and pin 10 on the main control harness (1 lead of the DVM on pin 3, 1 on pin 10; then one on pin 4 and one on pin 10 -- both measure 12V when I do this). So it looks like the panel has power but still isn't working.

Just for fun I tried the other suggestions (disconnecting the 14-pin harness, checking the TDS connector pins and lid locking pins), and it didn't help. Interestingly, my TDS connector did have some corrosion built up on it, which I tried to clean off as best I could. But regardless, it had no effect on the problem, even when the 14-pin harness was disconnected.

Furthermore, since I am measuring 12V DC at the control panel harness I think the problem lies more "upstream". Problem is, I don't know what else to check. I don't see any loose or broken wires, corrosion, etc in or around the control panel whatsoever. And I don't know what component, if any, to troubleshoot beyond that harness. I removed and reseated both ribbon cables going to the control panel with no effect - and both look fine.

If it helps, I can add that the display on my control panel has been acting flaky for months now. It has been dim, almost as if the backlight was dead or dying, but sometimes it got brighter, and sometimes it got streaky black lines through it. It was always usable and the touch input never had any issues, but it may or may not be a factor in the troubleshooting process.

Am I to assume my control panel is bad/dead? If so I will probably have to junk the whole washer, a quick price check online put the panel at around $430.

Thanks so much for any replies

Jesse
 
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