FIXED Maytag Refrigerator Model MSD2756DEB is not cooling properly

[Jake]

Ohm your defrost thermostat for continuity while its still frosty to get a proper reading, should read 0-1 ohm. If the defrost thermostat is not frosty when you ohm it, you will get a high reading.

Defrost Heater Assembly 61006116 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com


Just remove the plastic connector and Put your ohm meter probes in the black and white wire plastic connections you see in the photo above, remember it has to be still frosty for a proper reading. Should read 0 ohms.

Your defrost thermostat and defrost heater is combined as one part, its #12 here: Freezer Compartment parts for Maytag MSD2454GRW

You have to remove the lower back panel#20 inside your freezer(which you've already done):

Watch this video:

<IFRAME height=390 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/311BiD76iYg?rel=0" frameBorder=0 width=640 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[BiscuitTX]

Will do. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Jake]

Glad to help.

Jake

 

[eoctech]

Same problem as everyone else with Maytag wide by side. The freezer section frosted up and restricted the air flow to the refrigerator side. The refrigerator is about 5 or 6 years old and had the adaptive defrost timer replaced about 2 years ago.
I replaced the ADT last night but there is no air flow to the fridge part. I assume there is ice blockage in the freezer side around the coils blocking the air flow. Going to let it defrost for 24 hours to see if that will fix it.
I can hear the fan going when the unit is turned on so I think that part is okay. Hopefully just letting it sit for a day or so will resolve this issue.

 

[Jake]

Yes, let it defrost, keep both doors open.

Now if it continues after that you will need a ohm meter to check your defrost heater/thermostat assembly.

We would need the model# of your refrigerator first. Click here to locate it.

Jake

 

[eoctech]

Knowing the age of the refrigerator, 5-6yr, would it be cost effective to just replace the heater/thermostat assembly at this point now that I have the freezer and fridge empty? Is the heater/thermostat a common failure of this age?
Before this started happening there was a chattering or popping noise coming from the ADT area, upper right corner of the fridge. I just assumed that the ADT went bad so I replaced it.
What would be the best proactive step at this point? Ohm the heater assembly or just replace it?
Thanks in advance for the response and help.

 

[Jake]

So you let the evaporator coil completely defrost? You already removed the back panel inside the freezer to verify the evaporator coil is defrosted?

Yes, it would be best to just replace the defrost heater/defrost thermostat assembly.

Whats the model# of your refrigerator?

Jake

 

[eoctech]

Tonight when I got home I removed the back panel and saw that it was still a block of ice. I left the panel off and the door open and it is thawing quickly now. For another $50 for the heater thermostat assembly I will replace it.
Maytag model MZD2768GEB, s/n 20524589AV,
Defrost Heater and Thermostat assembly p/n 61006199

 

[Jake]

Yup, let that coil defrost all the way.

Yes, thats the correct part# for the defrost heater and thermostat assembly for your model.

Jake

 

[Ray Jaklitsch]

Hi Jake,

We have a Maytag MSD2758DRW side by side unit. We've had it for about 10 years and had the ADT replaced a couple years ago (it has the plastic cover). Over the past week, the fridge side has been getting warmer and warmer. The freezer side is still very cold. I pulled the panels off the freezer side and the coils were very clean (I shined a flashlight in there to check the back, but it was clean as a whistle). Just to be safe I got the hairdryer out and warmed it up for about 15 minutes, but there were only a few drips of water after heating it. I then went to the fridge side. Took the top panel off and verified the ADT has the plastic cover, then checked the flap to the freezer. Even when I pushed the flap open , there was very little airflow. I then removed the whole panel (with temp controls) and flap to see if any air would come through the bare opening between the freezer and fridge. It still was very little. So, I went back to the freezer side. The fan is blowing nice and strong and there is air flowing around the freezer nicely. I took the cover off at the top right corner (freezer side of the flap) to see if there was a blockage to the fridge side, but I couldn't feel anything restrictive. At this point, I quit. I'm stuck!!! Any suggestions. I appreciate your help!

 

[Jake]

Ok, check your return air vent, its #6 here: Shelves & Accessories parts for Maytag MSD2758DRW

Its located inside the refrigerator section at the bottom left after you take your lower crisper's out you should see it.

If that return vent flapper stays closed when its running then that would account for the issue your having.

Check it and see, make sure you put your back panel back on inside the freezer section.

Here's the return air duct flapper assembly for your model:
Whirlpool 61006081 Cover Assy., Air Ret - AppliancePartsPros.com


Jake

 

[eoctech]

Yup, let that coil defrost all the way.

Yes, thats the correct part# for the defrost heater and thermostat assembly for your model.

Jake

Just a follow up post here. The fridge is cool as a cucumber on a cold winter night. Everything is working great.
A recap of my symptoms.
A couple of months ago I started hearing a buzzing sound coming from the upper left back area of the inside of the fridge when the fridge cycled off. This went on for a couple of months then I noticed the fridge started getting warmer and warmer while the freezer side stayed cold. Since I had this warming problem once before I assumed the ADT was faulty, but the buzzing sound was new prior to the fridge side warming up. When I stopped hearing the buzzing is when I noticed that the fridge was warm.
So I assume the ADT was making that noise. When I replaced the ADT and turned it back on I knew I still had a problem because there wasn't any air flow to the fridge even though the freezer side was going to town. So I turned it off again and took the back panel off inside the freezer and found the evaporator iced up. The first time the ADT was replaced the appliance tech didn't do anything to the heater. Yes, I had a tech out the first time only because it was still under warranty. Actually, I had it pulled apart and was ready to replace the ADT, after doing my research online, when I wife said why are you doing this when its under warranty, just have someone come out and fix it. Talk about bursting my bubble, LOL. So the tech came out and we chatted and he said yes I was correct in my diagnosis. After watching him and the online videos of how to replace these parts I knew I wasn't going to have any problems. Actually I have kept my 20+ year old washer and dryer going by fixing it myself.
So I replaced the ADT and the heater since it was original, don't know if it was defective or not, but for an additional fifty bucks I wasn't going to take a chance after I had the unit cold and loaded.
Thanks Jake the Tech and everyone else who has posted their symptoms here. It all helps when you can read what problems others have had and how they have fixed them. This is an excellent forum with excellent people helping each other.
Regards sincerely,
Bill from Boring.

 

[jpbulldog1979]

Sorry to add yet another post to this list, but I had a question on this topic I didn't see answered earlier.

I have a Jenn-Air (JS2789DEW). The coils iced up so I replaced the heater/thermostat assembly. After 3 weeks they were iced up again so I replaced the control board. After replacing the board, I felt the heater start defrosting again so I put everything back together thinking the element would defrost the coils in the course of a normal cycle. After 6 hours, I checked and the coils were still frosted over and there was no air flow into the refrigerator. At that point I used a blow dryer to defrost the coils then reassembled everything.

My question is whether something is still wrong, the new defrost thermostat and heating element tested out fine in this most recent repair which is why I replaced the board. I don't understand why it didn't defrost the coils on its own, however. I felt the coils warming after I replaced the board so I know the defrost cycle was initiated. Is the normal defrost cycle long enough to defrost iced up coils (the frost had built up to the point where there was no airflow to the refrigerator and very weak flow to the freezer)? Did I do the right thing by defrosting them with a dryer again?

Thanks in advance.

 

[flybouy]

My first post on this forum where I have lurked since last 2 days. My Maytag Admiral model number GC2227CDFB had the same problem being discussed here. The freezer was working but the fridge stopped working. As it was a weekend I could not get an engineer appointment for love or money here in the UK. Finally I decided to take matters into my own hands and followed the instructions here and found that the evaporator coils were completely iced up. I used a hair dryer and defrosted it completely and it works like a dream now. I guess I will still need the Adaptive defrost control but for now an emergency has been avoided. Thanks guys as info on this site has been invaluable.

Thanks Jake.

 

[Jake]

Excellent flyboy, good job.

Sorry Bill and jp, I was out of town for 2 weeks and didn't see these posts.

Excellent Bill, good job changing ADT and heater assembly, I got a good laugh after what your wife said bursting your bubble.

Jake

 

[Pop45398]

Removing Damper Control

I have a Maytag MSD2556AEA and am trying to remove the control unit from the fridge to test the auto damper system as per the manual. I was led here via a link in another thread where my exact question was asked but posts 64 & 65 did not answer it as hoped.

After repairing the ADC (which I'll mention in another thread) I found the temp in the FF section was still high. While checking for blocked air passages I knocked the damper door and spring off and need to at least replace them but suspect the damper control may be bad. (The return air duct seems fine.)

I can get the entire unit loose so it hangs down but is held in by a large bundle of wires and I can't see how to disconnect this bundle. There is another bundle behind it that has several connectors I can disconnect to free all of them but the other bundle just disappears into the control unit. Can anyone help me disconnect this so I can remove the unit completely?

 

[Pop45398]

Repairing (not replacing) ADC circuit board

Jake, I don't mean to beat your company out of sales, only help others effect a quick and cheap fix for their refrigerator.

The Adaptive Defrost Control board used on many makes and models of refrigerators is problematic at best, and while ~$70 is not a tremendous amount of money, for some the biggest concern is the time it takes to get the part in to effect the repair. This was my main issue when the defrost problem struck me 5 years ago on my 5-year-old Maytag MSD2556AEA side-by-side so after removing the ADC board I decided to troubleshoot it. Besides a single IC chip, the board has only a modicum of discrete components including a relay. When energized, this relay interrupts current flow to the compressor and applies power to the defrost circuit.

I found the culprit to be a capacitor (labeled C2). This is a 22uF 50v axial lead capacitor that ties to one side of the relay coil and the other to ground. This capacitor smooths out the pulsating DC voltage to the relay coil. When going bad this causes the relay to chatter, creating a squeaking, buzzing, or clicking sound emanating from the upper right area of the fresh food compartment. Once completely gone the noise stops; either way the defrost system does not work properly.

Anyone with a $5 soldering iron and some basic soldering skills can replace this capacitor with one available at Radio Shack for $1.49 (actually comes in a 2-pack, #272-1014); however, these are only 35 volt instead of 50 volt but since this relay coil is only 24 volt they work just fine, in fact mine lasted just as long as the original, 5 years, as this problem just recurred for me. Insure proper polarity is observed; the negative end (-) goes away from the relay. You can just clip the old leads and solder the new leads to them rather than completely unsoldering and removing the old one; this might be the best approach for those without much soldering experience. Note that the board is covered with conformal coating to prevent oxidation due to moisture; however, mine showed no signs after 5 years since I first replaced my capacitor.

Another possible problem with the ADC could be the relay contacts being burned or even welded together but if you are hearing or have heard noises coming from inside the FF section it's a good bet the capacitor is your problem. The first time it happened to me the sound was more of a buzzing, the second it was more of a squeaking, in fact I thought it was a bad fan bearing and when it quit and the temp started to rise I first checked the evaporator fan. It's certainly worth trying a new capacitor.

 

[Jake]

Good job Pop, thats fine if you have the knowledge and knowhow to just repair the ADC board, but most don't and get a new ADC board.

The new ADC boards have been upgraded to solve this issue as well.

Jake

 

[dakota316]

Replaced ADC and it worked for about 2 weeks

I have a 7 year old Maytag side by side model #MSD2735gr. The refrigerator side was warm but the freezer was cold. It was frosted up so we defrosted it and determined that the ADC needed to be replaced. I replaced that nad it seemed to work for about 2 weeks. Today the refrigerator is warm again and after taking the back off the freezer we see that it is all frosted up again allowing no air flow to the refrigerator side. Could the ADC be bad again or is there something else that may be causing this?

 

[Jake]

No, on your model yours doesn't have the ADC board, it has the mechanical defrost timer.

There should be a small access hole directly underneath it in the very back right side of your control console, what you do is get a flathead screwdriver and turn it clockwise slowly till it shuts off your refrigerator, then it will be in defrost.

Your defrost timer:
Whirlpool 68233-3 Defrost Timer - AppliancePartsPros.com


Its #13 here: Controls parts for Maytag MSD2735GRW

While its in defrost take your food and shelves out from the bottom of your freezer, then remove the back panel#20 in diagram below, then your defrost heater/defrost thermostat assembly#12 should be on and you should feel heat from it, if you don't feel any heat, UNPLUG YOUR REFRIGERATOR FIRST, then Ohm your defrost thermostat for continuity while its still frosty to get a proper reading, should read 0-1 ohm. If the defrost thermostat is not frosty when you ohm it, you will get a high reading.

Put your ohm meter probes in the 2 white wire plastic connections, remember it has to be still frosty for a proper reading. Should read 0 ohms.

Then put your ohm meter probes in the black and middle white wire plastic connections, that will ohm your defrost heater, should read between 11-50 ohms.

Here's the defrost heater/defrost thermostat assembly for your model:
Whirlpool 61006197 Heater & Therm. Assy - AppliancePartsPros.com


Let us know what you find.

Jake