FIXED Maytag Refrigerator Model MSD2756DEB is not cooling properly

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dakota316

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New problem

Your right, Sorr about that, it was the timer we replaced. Unfortunately while I was going to follow your instructions to check the thermostat we started having problems with the compressor. It would click, buzz, and then click off so no more cooling. We unplugged the cord and waited a few hours, plugged it back in and it was working fine. Then it happened again and it seemed like everything was saying to replace the relay so we ordered the overload/relay kit. Today we changed that out and since we were ordering parts we went ahead and ordered the heater/themostat and changed those out just in case. After plugging it in the compressor started right up and sounded great. Now about 8 hours later I hear the compressor click, buzz, and click off. This happens twice and then the third time the compressor comes on. I am not sure what else to replace or to just give up and buy a new fridge! Could it be the run capacitor or is the compressor just going bad?
 

Jake

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Its your compressor thats bad then.

Check your warranty, some have a 5-10 warranty on the compressor.

Jake
 

voytek

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Hi there,
I have the same problem.
About a week ago i replaced Adaptive Defrost Control Board, thinking that this was the problem, but now - week after- i have the same problem again. I Omh the defrost heater, and gives me 29 reading when frosted. I noticed there is defrost thermostat on a separate cable on that coil- Is there a way to test the defrost thermostat if it is good? or could there be any other reason for it?
maytag side by side refrigerator: MSD2651HEB
Thanks
 

joepublic

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Another Maytag query

I inherited a Maytage side by side with my house move. No idea how old it is. Model no GC2228EEDB/11.
Two weeks ago, fridge not cold, milk etc going off. I looked up on here for clues and saw that the freezer part is all frosted up at the back. So let it all defrost and it worked fine. Now frosted up again and even the freezer bit is not too cold even when on max (although I can see ice cubes in the dispenser).

My question is: by searching by the model no, it seems this model has the mechanical timer rather than the ADC board ( as shown by Circuit Board or Timer 61003601 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com .
Can I /should I replace it with the ADC board or is that entirely different?

Secondly, I am concerned that the problem is worsened as even the freezer is not cold.

Finally, somewhere (on here?) there was a video clip on how to get to the ADC/Timer - would be very grateful if someone can point me to it as I cant seem to find it again. Thanks
Joe
 
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rickgburton

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Before you start indiscriminately replacing parts, it might be best to find out which part is actualy bad first. With the evaporator covered withy ice and the compressor running, you can manualy advance the timer with a flat blade screw driver. Slowly advance the timer one click at a time untill the refrigerator turns off. If the heater around the evaporator comes on then the timer needs to be replaced. If not, you'll have to check the heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. Either one of the three parts can be bad.
 

joepublic

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Defrost times

Thanks guys. a newbie here.

I took out the defrost timer first. Its an old style white thing not a board I never get continuity between 1 and 3. after one click its continuity between 1 and 2, after a further click between 1 and 4.
Does this mean that the timer needs replacing?


When I plug it back in and give it power, after one click this fan comes on. After another click the fan stops and there is a ticking noie as in a clock. I don't yet know whether the heating is working as that's the next bit I'd have to unscrew.

So, the fiurst question is - is the timer bad because there is no continuity between 1 and 3
 

rickgburton

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Before you start indiscriminately replacing parts, it might be best to find out which part is actualy bad first. With the evaporator covered withy ice and the compressor running, you can manualy advance the timer with a flat blade screw driver. Slowly advance the timer one click at a time untill the refrigerator turns off. If the heater around the evaporator comes on then the timer needs to be replaced. If not, you'll have to check the heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. Either one of the three parts can be bad.
I would have to look up a wiring diagram. Don't make any harder than it has to be. Reinstall the timer. Make sure the compressor and fans are running then advance the timer one click at a time untill the compressor turns off. See if the heater comes on.
 

joepublic

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Thanks Rick

freezer.JPG
I would have to look up a wiring diagram. Don't make any harder than it has to be. Reinstall the timer. Make sure the compressor and fans are running then advance the timer one click at a time untill the compressor turns off. See if the heater comes on.

Thanks Rick - I opened up the freezer panel and did as you suggested - advanced the timer one setting at a time. There is absolutely no heat at all and as you can see from the picture its completely frozen up. I can see that there is a heating element at the bottom but because of the ice I can't see where the connectors are for me to check reistance. I can see a wire that goes into the thermonstat.

Have I got it right that the heater and the thermostat are one unit to purchase?
 

rickgburton

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Check the thermostat for continuity (The two white wires in the pic) then the heater.
 

joepublic

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Thanks Rick - what next please!

Check the thermostat for continuity (The two white wires in the pic) then the heater.
Its all defrosted now and switched off. I undid the white connector. The left one has a black wire that comes from the heater and the white wire that comes from the thermostat. I put the test probes in each of the two holes on the left and there is no continuity.

The right half of the connector has white and yellow wires - both of these go into the other connector behind. There is no continuity between any of these 4 wires.







wirew.jpg
 

rickgburton

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You can check just the heater, the two large black wires but the defrost thermostat needs to be below 40*F to see if it's closed.
 

joepublic

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Thanks Rick - here's the update

You can check just the heater, the two large black wires but the defrost thermostat needs to be below 40*F to see if it's closed.
I waited till the elements frosted and turned the timer switch to put it into the defrost mode - still no heat from the heater. Turned power off to check continuity as before but still no continuity. I can't just test the heater as its connected straight into the thermostat.
On this model they sell the heater and thermostat together.

I did find a wiring diagram by the defrost timer (part attached). That showns pins 1-3 go via a capacitor (?) to - not sure what that round symbol with two loops is. As I said earlier 1 and 3 dont have continuity.

So - is the answer that I should replace the heater and the thermostat? Thanks for all your help.




wiring diagram.jpg
 

rickgburton

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You already have one side disconnected, the first picture. Follow the other white wire from the defrost thermostat to where it connects to the other side of the heater and it will pull apart. You then can test both seperately.
 

stovelady

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To Jake and Jeff or anyone who has an answer,

I need some serious assistance. I am a refrigerator repair technician. I installed a defrost heater/thermostat assembly and the adaptive defrost control board in a Maytag model msd2756gew twice and nothing seems to fix the problem. I even checked the wires going from the board to the freezer and got continuity. I checked the heater and the bimetal for continuity (using the beep on the electronic meter) and everything checked out on the freezer side. I put power to the heater and to the wires on the board side and everything work. That is when I changed the board the second time. The refrigerator is still not defrosting.

How can I force this unit into defrost? Nobody seems to know the proper way and I have been there at least five times.
Could it be that I got two bad boards?
What else could I be missing? I have been repairing appliances for more than 10 years and I am consulting with about seven people who each have more than 30 years of experience. They all say I am doing the right thing.

I even had the client make sure her kids stay out of the refrigerator because they use to go in there every five minutes.

What am I doing wrong? Should I condemn the refrigerator? Should I have changed the board and heater at the same time?

Please help because she keeps buying and loosing food.

Thanks. I love to give great service and a great experience but this client is patient but not very happy and neither am I.
 

Jake

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Yes, you are doing it properly. Now 2 boards being bad is highly unlikely.

Did you defrost the evaporator coil before installing those parts? If not, then thats possibly the reason.

Other than that I'm stumped as well, I'd check for a pinched/broken wire in your wire harness to the defrost board.

Jake
 

stovelady

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I did defrost everything before installation.

I checked the wires that go from the board to the heater by running 120 volts through them to the heater. I also checked all the wires from the board to the heater assembly for continuity.

How do I put the board into defrost? That is the big question.
 

rickgburton

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The refrigerator must be running and the cold control closed. Use a jumper wire between L1 and Test. That will put it in defrost for about 25 minutes.
 

stovelady

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By the cold control do you mean the refrigerator thermostat or damper?

The test pin is on the molex plug to the board?

Thank you guys for your answers I don't like changing parts. I like making things work.
 

rickgburton

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The cold control is the thermostat. The refrigerator must be running when you short L1 and Test (last two pins on the connector) The pins are labled on the board. Don't remove the connector. You can use a small screw driver.
 
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