FIXED Maytag Refrigerator Model MSD2756DEB is not cooling properly

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seadooer48

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I'm having the same problem with my 2000 model MSD2556AEW. The control and heater were replaced 9/04 and now I have the same problem. Is there anyway to ohm the defrost board out to be sure it's bad ??
 

jeff1

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Hi,

Other way around....ohm the defrost heater and defrost thermostat...if they check ok replace the adaptive defrost board.

jeff.
 

nestar

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I replaced the ADC board of my MSD2756DEW last night to fix the same problem. Maybe I missed something but I had to remove 7 screws to take out whole top assembly(1 in back, 4 on top and 2 which holds the ADC)to do the job. After the replacement, I can't put the two screws, which used to hold the board, back any more.

Unlike the old board which is a bare board, the new one is enclosed in a nice plastic box.

Does the new ADC still need to be held by those two screws ?

Thanks

John
 

jeff1

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**Does the new ADC still need to be held by those two screws ?**

Important....but not critical.

It should be fine.

jeff.
 

sbussell

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Looks like this is a common problem with Maytag side by sides. I have a MSD2456DEB with the same problem. Wish I had found this site before ordering and replacing the defrost heater assy. Oh well, live and learn. I just ordered a replacement adaptive defrost control. Thanks for all the valuable info.
Steve in Sandown, NH
 

Jake

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Thanks for coming Steve, were always here to help.

Good Luck on the repair!:cool:

Jake
 

md49

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I have a Maytag MZD2766WEG wide-by-side. It is about 4 1/2 years old.

About a year ago it quit cooling. I discovered that the evaporator fan was out. I replaced that and the machine was fine until this week. My wife commented that the ice cream wasn't frozen. I checked the evaporator fan and it was working. The coils weren't frosted up. I then noticed that there was very little air entering the refrigerator compartment. I checked from the bottom of the freezer to the vents in the refrigerator and found no blockage. In the process, the damper door and spring fell out. I have re-situated the damper door inside the air duct, but can't locate anyplace to hook the spring. Where does the spring attach?

Without the damper installed, the refrigerator isn't getting as much air as it should.

I am trying to determine, based on Maytag's bad reputation, if this refrigerator is worth repairing. If I get the temperature and airflow problems resolved, what is likely to go next?



Thanks for the assistance.
 

md49

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I managed to get the damper door and spring installed. I replaced the evaporator fan.
The airflow into the refrigerator isn't as great as it was two weeks ago. The air coming into the refrigerator feels much warmer than the air in the freezer. There is no blockage.
I verified that the damper door was open before I put everything together.

What can be causing the loss of airflow?
 

philcox2

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Same issue with MSD2656DE

I am facing the same issue with a MSD2656DE. Would it be a safe bet to go ahead and replace the defrost board to see if this correct the problem?
 

Jake

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md49 said:
I managed to get the damper door and spring installed. I replaced the evaporator fan.
The airflow into the refrigerator isn't as great as it was two weeks ago. The air coming into the refrigerator feels much warmer than the air in the freezer. There is no blockage.
I verified that the damper door was open before I put everything together.

What can be causing the loss of airflow?
Make sure the entire evaporator coil is free of frost and ice, then you will have lots of air coming into the refrigerator section.:3:


Jake
 

Jake

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philcox2 said:
I am facing the same issue with a MSD2656DE. Would it be a safe bet to go ahead and replace the defrost board to see if this correct the problem?
Hi,

Yes, that would be good to do, since these boards have been causing most of the frosted evaporator coil problems.

But i would always ohm out the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity to make sure those are good as well.


Jake
 

philcox2

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Jake,

I replaced the board defrosted the coils and the fridge is cool, not cold though. With the setting all the way at 9, it only cools down to about 45-50 degrees which to me seems a little warm based on the setting. I looked at everything again yesterday, there was no frost on the coils, air flow in the freezer seemed to be fine, but I really coouldn't feel much airflow in the fridge. Any other suggestions on what to look for?
 

Jake

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Check the air coming into the refrigerator section with the air diffuser off.
Close the freezer door while checking the air flow, should be alot, then open the freezer door and check the air flow in the refrigertor, it should not increase the air flow, if you notice a increase in air flow with the freezer door open, then you still have a ice/frost clog in the evaporator.

Whats the temperature of the freezer side? Should be 0-10 degrees.

This link will help you too:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Jake
 

philcox2

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Jake,

I did what you suggested tand found that when the freezer door was opened there was a noticable change (increase) in the airflow to the fridge side. You stated that this is a sign if ice build-up on the coils. I have replaced the board so it must be something else. Any more suggestions?
 

Jake

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Get a flashlight and check behind the evaporator coils for a sheet of ice or frost thats clogging the air flow. After i defrost the evaporator coils on the ones i do, i always see that subborn ice/frost behind the coils, get a heat gun or hair dryer and make sure its all clear.

Jake
 

frmrce091

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MSD2456DEW air damper spring location?

Where does the spring go/connect to on the air damper for the side by side maytag. I am struggling with this last problem after fixing my cooling issue and can't see any place to hook it between. Your help is appreciated!


jeff1 said:
Hi,

**What is #8 in this diagram?**

Air damper control.

**The post sticking out of this piece is what opens & closes the flap. How do you get the post to retract?**

I usually remove the screws holding the control to the plastic housing to leave some slack to get the door and spting back into place.

jeff.
 

jeff1

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The only pic I have.....

jeff.
 

Robinh

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Boy am I glad I found this site. Have a Jenn-Air model JSD2789DES, obviously made by Maytag. Stopped making Ice the other day, pulled the unit out and the back side plus the floor were covered in water. Pulled the ice maker and found the water tube that fills it was frozen solid. Hmmm.. how to unfreeze that and yet not defrost my entire freezer?? Hung a worklight with a 150watt spot in it from the cabinet facing the back of the fridge right at the point where the water supply line enters the back. Had it unfrozen in about an hour.

Now, notice the fridge side is getting warmer. Pull everything out, clean the entire side, pull the top cover, notice no air flow at all, get into the freezer, and AHA! As you're all speaking of find the coils frozen solid. Spent a couple hours with a hair dryer getting them unsprung. Now, my fear is that this is not a one-time event, as my refrigerator is right at 5 years old.

I've seen lots of responses here from Jake and all suggesting "ohm out" the defrost heater and thermostat, and using my 26 years in telecom always carrying an ohmmeter I gotta ask a question - what exactly am I looking for when I do that??? Just continuity? I'm assuming from seeing the pictures that the defrost heater is simply that, a metal heating element, and it's got a thermostat I believe attached to the head that connects up top by the fan unit??? Then way back at the beginning of this thread, someone mentioned test points on the board - what test points? I don't want to short anything out and blow something, and shouldn't that be done off power???

Thanks in advance, great blog here, informative as heck!!!!
 

Robinh

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Well, found Jake's link to test the board, and boy what a pain to get to. You have to take out the top cover on the fridge side, then something like 7 screws, hope you don't mess up the flappidoodle thingymajig, take the whole top down, lights and all, to get to the tiny spot in the back where the board is located.

Well, didn't even get that far, had the board freed up from where it was screwed in place, and while holding it, without getting it all the way out, it starts making a buzzing sound like a nest of hornets.

I'd say I'm pretty sure it's FUBAR. Jake - your opinion? Should I go through the hassle of taking it down to test it??? I'm fairly confident it's buggered.

If anyone's interested, I'm going to do a photo play-by-play of the replacement and post it on my site, will post a link here to it. Might come in handy for the next guy/girl that wants to replace theirs as getting to the board in my Jenn-Air was a real pain. Think I'll document all the way into the freezer side along with the location of the coils and heater/defroster. Might be of use to someone someday... lol ...
 
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Robinh

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Jake said:
Hi,

Yes i have changed alot of these in the last 5 years, but now they come with a plastic cover all around the circuit board.

61005988 Defrost Control Board


Jake
Hey Jake, I looked for the part number on the site you have listed for my Jenn Air and it lists this same board. However, mine's not in a self-contained unit. I had to pull the entire top piece down and the board sits in generally the same location you've been speaking of, but covered by the plastic that is all one piece for the entire top assembly. Any suggestions on part number?
 
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