Hi all. This site is great, thanks Jake and the other Mods.
I have a Maytag MSD2456DEW that completely died. I lost most of my food, and was at work when it happened.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, as noted by others it was my ADC.
I don’t know if Jake thinks it’s a bad idea, but I bypassed the ADC until the new part comes in.
This can only be done temporarily since the automatic defrost will no longer work, but at least it works for now.
There were a couple of things I noticed after reading through these posts.
This is my second Maytag, the first was a 1999 MSD2356AEW, and I’ve never had to set the freezer side to more then 1-½ to get 0-10°F or the fresh food side to higher then 3-½ to get 35-40°F.
The inner liner on the first one became wavy and the air passage to the crispers pulled away from the liner. This happened in the 13th month of ownership, and the Maytag rep tried to tell me the warranty ran out after the first year, but I was happy to point out to the rep that the interior liner (but not the door liner) is also covered from the 2-5 year part of the warranty.
They replaced it for free with the newer 2000 MSD2456DEW, but it took two tries because the delivery guys dented the first one. The delivery guys told me to grab any loose parts from my old fridge before they took it, so I took the unused water filter and an adjustable shelf, you know, the one that you crank up or down to adjust.
Anyway, people I talk to sound like they don’t really understand how the temperature controls work.
I’ve found friends that have had their freezer section turned all the way up, and then had to turn the cooler section all the way down to keep their veggies from freezing. That’s completely backwards! And besides they are going to cause their coils to ice up.
The “Freezer” control turns the compressor on and will make your freezer colder, but the thermostat is in the fresh food section, so it’s going to affect both sections. And the “Refrigerator” control actually changes the percent or ratio of cold air going to the fresh food section, so once again it’s going to affect both sections when you make any adjustments.
I use a refrigerator glass-bulb style thermometer in both sections, and it’s easy to adjust and maintain the temperature at the correct levels.
They don’t make refrigerators like they used to. The new ones may be more efficient, but with computer controls, they are more prone to failures. My first fridge was a Whirlpool handed down from my parents. It lasted more then 36 years before I gave it away, still running! The only parts failure was a heater coil, and the compressor overload protector. It had a metal liner, no flimsy plastic, or shelves breaking off.
I couldn’t do the defrost test (jump L1 to TEST) because I didn’t realize it until I removed the board that it’s coated in protective plastic. At first, I thought the whole refrigerator was dead because there was no voltage going to the board, but now I know it was because of the coating on the board. Did anyone else notice this?
Anyway, thanks for listening. I’ll be replacing my ADC when it arrives, and don’t expect any problems, but I’ve been hearing a slight squeal from the condenser fan, so I’ll be lubing or replacing it in the near future.
Greg
