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FIXED Maytag Refrigerator Model MSD2756DEB is not cooling properly

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ChrisMSD

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Mar 6, 2006
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coils in the back of the freezer were encased in ice

Yes,
The coils in the back of the freezer were encased in ice. I changed the defrost board (just received from AppliancePartsPros), defrosted coils over nite and put everything back. The freezer was cooling nicely when I left for work, but hadn't gotten to a shut off temp. Won't know for sure till I get home.

thanks again, Jake and Robin,

Chris
 

Jake

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Glad you found the problem and got it fixed Chris!:)

Jake
 

apachi31

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Mar 9, 2006
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Tx
maandrew said:
Thank you for the diagram. I just had to remove a couple more screws. Now for the results:

I shorted the test pins, and I could hear a click sound.But, the fridge did not shut off. Instead, I could hear a high pitched rattling sound. The curious thing about this is that the rattling sound did not stop until I started to put the console cover back in place. I unplugged the fridge and repeated this test with the same results. I'm not sure what the sounds I heard are all about, but I'm guessing that there is a problem with the board based on the fact that the fridge does not shut off.

I'm planning to order a new controlboard and post my results here in the hope of helping out the next guy...

--Matt


Just how many screws did you remove. I removed the outer cover, but the board is in above the inner cover that I am not shure how to remove. Can you please help.
Thank You
Greg
 

Jake

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You should see 2 larger screws holding up that inner cover. Look on each side of the light bulbs, there Phillips head screws. Then that inner cover will rest on the top shelf. But you need to remove the 2 1/4" screws from underneath the auto-defrost board(in the very right rear) itself first.

Jake
 

Robinh

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Jake said:
You should see 2 larger screws holding up that inner cover. Look on each side of the light bulbs, there Phillips head screws. Then that inner cover will rest on the top shelf. But you need to remove the 2 1/4" screws from underneath the auto-defrost board(in the very right rear) itself first.

Jake
Well, yes, no, maybe... depends on the age of your model I think. Mine I had to remove I believe 7 screws after removing the first cover. That first cover took some trial and error to get it out. Then once I removed it, and took out the 7 screws, I had to be very careful to pull down the right rear corner only or you dislodge the vent on the left between the fridge and the freezer. If you pop that out, it's a pain to put back in.

I've pasted some photos below of the cover, but didn't re-disassemble to show the rest.
 

Jake

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Good Photo's Robin.:)

Jake
 

apachi31

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Jake & Robin,
Thank You both very much for your input, and the warning on the vent. The board won't be in till later today so I'll do this then. I'll get back to you if I have any problems, But with your input I believe it will go well.
Thanks Again
Greg
 

jrball

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I was having the same issue with no cooling in the fridge side, and I also had the coils frozen solid. I replaced the ADC unit with a new one, turned the fridge back on. The freezer and fan started up right away, there was a few clicks also. How long does it take for the air to start flowing into the fridge? The coils are completly free of ice, the air flows great on the freezer, but hardly at all on the fridge. What else could it be? I remember the airflow was pretty strong before, it's hardly going now..even with the replacement ADC.
 

Jake

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Double check behind your evaporator coil, it has fooled me too when i found a thick block of ice on one I have last year, and had to get the rest of the ice out.

Get a flashlight, or floodlight to check, cause its hard to see back there.

Jake
 

jrball

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I was sure that there was not any ice. I used a hairdrier and melted it, and the fridge also sat unplugged and open for 2 days while the ADC was on order. After replacing the ADC, I let it run for 24 hours, the fridge cooled to between 43-46 degrees with the temperatures with the fridge set to 9 (all the way to cool) and the freezer set to 5 (middle of the settings) That was with the plastic top cover removed and with the styrofoam air channel on the left side removed. I removed the freezer panels to see if there was any ice buildup, and it appears the ADC is working.

I still have yet to see the airflow occur as it did before. What else could it be? Shouldn't the fridge be ice cold at the highest setting of 9?
 

jrball

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One other thing I noticed, after replacing the ADC, there was about 5 or six clicks coming from under the bottom of the fridge, then it ran without any clicks. After a day or so, there was a clicking/buzzing sound coming from the black box on the ADC unit.
 

Jake

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The refrig. side should be 37-42 degrees and the freezer should be 0-10 degrees.

Thats very odd that its not blowing as much air as before, you may have the top Styrofoam piece not mounting the air tunnel/damper properly on the rear left side, causing a blockage there. You may want to recheck that.

Jake
 

jrball

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Well. I thought it was fixed. The fridge ran great up until I got home tonight. I came home to a fridge and freezer temps both being about 45 degrees and getting warmer. Either side wouldn't run. The freezer fans wouldn't come on either. I tried setting the temp controls on the fridge side to off and back on again to see if it would kick on, and nothing happened. I emptied all the food just stocked in both sides, assuming I would find a solid brick of ice like last time on the freezer side. I removed the panel to find only a very small anount of ice buildup. Nothing major at all.

I unplugged the fridge hoping it would reset upon plugging back in, but nothing happened there either.

What would be my next step after successfully replacing the ADC, and having it run good for approx. 2 weeks then this happening?
 

Jake

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This is very odd, I have never seen a Maytag do this after changing that control board, and I have changed hundreds of those boards in the last 5 yrs.

I'm clueless on this one, unless you have a connector not plugged all the way in back behind where you changed that board.

Jake
 

jrball

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I double checked the ADC installation tonight. All the connections were good and tight. I also checked the relay connections on the compressor. They all looked ok also, but I remember reading some threads about the compressor relays going bad also. I looked at them and there's no sign of burns, and checked to see that they have good connections. The compressor isn't turning on at all now. Maybe the relay or overload is shot? Thats my only guess.
 

Jake

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Yes, thats possible, Ohm out the relay and the overload, if you have continuity then check for 120 volts at the relay when power is on.

If this is starting to overwhelm you, don't hesitate to call an appliance repair company, as this issue your having is extremely unusual.

Jake
 

Rick_French

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Jun 7, 2006
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Canada
Damper door

Hi Guy's
First off - A BUNCH of thanks to the guys that help us laymen out here!!!

Damper Door - 1st its a real pain and a lousy design but it is what it is - I re-attached the spring to the "frame" of the housing for the Auto damper control - the spring is quite stretched and since i have replaced the adaptive defrost assem (yesterday) the fridge section is not colling enough. Is it possible that there is another place that the spring hooks on the non-damper door side?????
I will re-confirm that there is no ice sheet hiding behind the coils tonight like a previous post suggested!


jeff1 said:
Hi,

**What is #8 in this diagram?**

Air damper control.

**The post sticking out of this piece is what opens & closes the flap. How do you get the post to retract?**

I usually remove the screws holding the control to the plastic housing to leave some slack to get the door and spting back into place.

jeff.
 

alexcuoi

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texas
Maytag refrigerator not cooling..

Hi everyone:

I have a 6 years old Maytag refrigerator that having the same problem with the cooling in the refrig side. I have gone thru many posts on this thread, and confirm the problem pointing to the ADC board. I had cleaned all the ice in the freezer side and it seems to work near normal condition. Still not quite as cold as it was before, could not get lower than 38 F in the refrig side. I already placed order for the ADC board and plan to replace it once it is delivered.
While I had the refrigerator off during the ice cleaning, I did open the cover to try to locate the ADC board in the refrig side, but could not find it. I saw a bunch of wires in the place where the ADC board suppose to be (right rear corner) but no board. My Maytag model is MSD2758DRW. Is there a chance my may be at different location or I haven't look hard enough!

Any comments and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Sean
 

bbobbo

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Cambridge, MA
here are some pictures that may help you out. i changed the board myself last weekend on my #MSD2556AEW and decided to take some pictures to add to robinh's on page 7. hopefully your model is similar.

the first cover was tricky to get off, but the second cover was even more of a pain. one of the screws was inconveniently located behind the left lightbulb. and then there seemed to be some adhesive that was holding the left side up around where that same inconvenient lightbulb was located. i couldn't figure out how to get at the adc board until the adhesive gave way and the cover finally came down fully.

picture 1 shows the location of the 7 screws you need unscrew to get the second cover off. actually, only 5 screws (dark blue circles) hold the cover up; 2 screws (light blue circles) hold the adc board down.

picture 2 shows the cover with the screws out but the left side still sticking.

picture 3 shows the cover down and hanging (i tried to make sure it didn't come off completely because of comments saying how difficult it is to get the vent connector back on). you can see the adc board in the back right of the picture.

picture 4 shows that left screw opening above the lightbulb which seems to have a little bit of adhesive next to it.
 

mitchedo

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Jul 26, 2006
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Utah
I have a Maytag MSD2758DR. I absolutely HATE this fridge!!!! First thing when it was brand new, the door shelves fell on the floor. ...called Maytag's hotline, and they sent me a repair kit which consisted of pieces of plastic to make the shelves wider. Well, they did that, and the shelves haven't fallen on the floor since, but the spacers pushed the frame they hang on out, and it bangs agains the side of the fridge when you open and shut the door. 6 years of thunk-chunk when you open and shut the door. ...have to push the door to get it to shut. Guess which manufacturer has lost my business forever?

But I digress. This stupid pile of a fridge stopped cooling rather suddenly. I thought the evap fan was out, so I pulled off the cover to find the evaporator covered in a ton of ice. I Googled my way here and found the test procedure for that stupid defrost board in the top right of the fridge. Well, I shorted L1 and Test, heard a click, but the fridge didn't shut off. I checked 20 minutes later and even the heater element is still covered in ice. I cycled the breaker to shut the fridge off and on, and shorted L1 and Test again. CLICK but the fridge continues to run. I imagine the heater elements aren't warm either.

Now what? I'd love to throw this fridge off a cliff, and have been anxiously awaiting its demise. I can justify spending up to $100 or so to fix it, but did I mention, I HATE this fridge and I hate even worse that I spent two grand on the junker!
 
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