...not Jake, but I've been in the back of my freezer several times in the past few days. In my freezer, I took out the bottom three baskets and removed two screws about the middle of the freezer, on the back wall. Once these two screws are out, you can remove the bottom panel by sliding it up slightly and pulling it out. It's a tight fit to get out the door. You shouldn't need to remove the other panel to get at the drain. The drain is right in the bottom back of the freezer, under the coils. I think there are several posts in this thread with nice photos.mcf86 said:Jake, thanks for some great info.
I have an MSD2756DE. My question is whether ice buildup on the floor of my freezer is an indicator that I will soon have to replace the ADC as you mention in this post? My fridge & freezer are working fine, but I get little puddles under the front of the doors every couple of days, and a buildup of ice on the bottom of the freezer side.
Someone mentioned clearing out an ice plugged drain hole, but I don't know where that is. I can just go ahead and replace the ADC now rather than wait for the problem to get worse.
<O</OStopped making Ice the other day, pulled the unit out and the back side plus the floor were covered in water. Pulled the ice maker and found the water tube that fills it was frozen solid. Hmmm..
<O</OFirst thing when it was brand new, the door shelves fell on the floor. ...called Maytag's hotline, and they sent me a repair kit which consisted of pieces of plastic to make the shelves wider. Well, they did that, and the shelves haven't fallen on the floor since, but the spacers pushed the frame they hang on out, and it bangs agains the side of the fridge when you open and shut the door. 6 years of thunk-chunk when you open and shut the door. ...have to push the door to get it to shut.
<O</OMy fridge & freezer are working fine, but I get little puddles under the front of the doors every couple of days, and a buildup of ice on the bottom of the freezer side.
Highwayman said:I haven’t seen this anywhere in the thread so I’ll throw it in.
All of the symptoms of a frozen evaporator coil, warm on the refrigerator side, air flow coming in at the top increases when the freezer door is opened, etc. But the coil was not frozen up.
OK, cold air from the evaporator compartment flows into the refrigerator side at the top. The return air passage into the bottom of the evaporator compartment is located behind the middle crisper drawer and is a small box protruding into the refrigerator with a flapper valve. This box had incased itself in ice and cut off the air circulation through the refrigerator.
I assume this happened when the defrost system failed and the evaporator coil froze up. Repairing the defrost and thawing the coil failed to thaw the flapper door on the refrigerator side.
Kakaji said:Thanks so much to everyone about these entries. I have a gutted fridge laying all around my kitchen and the last time a I called the local Jennair repair dude, he left my washer gutted in the basement and never returned. So I definately need some help.
I definately believe my Jennair, JCB2389GRS, has the same defrost problem from this thread. I have a couple of questions about still tracking down exactly which item in the system is the problem.
First, do I need to put it all back together and restart it to be testing the system when it is cold.
Second, I cannot find that sticken defrost timer. My schematics say that a blue wire from the temperature control goes to the defrost timer. However that blue wire leaves the temperature control and disappears down a hole in the back of the freezer department. The back of the fridge doesn't look like it is meant to come off and I can't find that blue wire anywhere.
Third, I have seen where it explains to test the heater assembly, but it mentions two wires. I have three, the white, black and white/black. Which two do I test?
If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it... if I continue to eat take out food forever, I am going to have new problems with my system that a repairman won't be able to help!
Clive said:Thanks everyone for all the wonderful advice on this thread. Had the same problem as everyone else with the refrigerator section not cooling. I had been using a hair blower to clear the frost buildup ever so often and got tired of it. Bought the ADC board yesterday, cleared the frost and installed it. I now have a new problem. I do not believe I disconnected any wires but now the ice, water and light buttons do not work and the light (outside) stays on when freezer door is closed and goes out when the door is opened. Previously this light only worked when the button was pressed. Model is Maytag # MSD2556AEW.
Any help is very much appreciated.
I should add that the unit is running and cooling.
Lou619 said:Enjoyed reading the posts on the ADC.
I have several Magic Chef units at the property we manage.
The evaporator fan is the worst problem (the Panasonic solid state fan), lasting only about 1 1/2 to 3 years.
We've replaced several defrost controls over the last 5 yrs, only one of the defrost t-stats this week.
The Magic Chef CTN1511 is a lower priced refrig that uses the ADC. Our Magic Chef CTN1911 uses the older motorized defrost timer.